Are those the ones with the gold-coloured metal on the regular graphite body ??
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Hi, Jim....I have an e-mail to the Canadian distributor but he'll answer it in due course. So for me, at the moment, not yet available. I had not *planned* to mix these products, but wished pre-info in case it accidentally happened. It's happened to me before, with early products, like decapour, mirrorshine, crystal clear, nu-clear, envirotex EX-88, EX-75, flex-kote, gibbs 2-part, sun cure, and
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Weldwood "weldbond", or UF-109, or good old-fashioned SealAll, or G2 cold Cure, or Z-Poxy 20 min. As soon as Andy Dear's gel resin get to the Canuck dealer showing at Andy's page, I'll be using that.
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Acknowledged, folks....I have a couple of tramp rods here, that are good lab rat candidates. According to the web page, the light is coming out in the fall, which is now mere weeks away. I have TM regular, and like the speed, but have had to modify my mixing procedures to minimize tiny micro bubbles. Or: it may be dust particles. Unsure. Blems little white/clear dots, about the same size as the
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Hello, Andy. I did a search here, and did not see the following "murphy's law" occurance (when something can go wrong, it will)..... What would happen if one mixed the light and the regular up? Using the wrong A with the wrong B? and vIce-versa? It's a possibility, however remote, especially if one re-decanted the formulae into other vessels. With the stuff I no longer use and b
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Corkwork is very personal. As Tom's said ( and many other folks as well) many times, extra, grade A, flor, etc, mean diddley with no photographic reference. it depends on your country, and major suppliers. A minor side bar, going to improving cork's appearance: I have never seen a ring sold in its real colour. Every supplier I have purchased from, sells cork that's been faked to look white, a
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Thanks, folks....I think I'll give the let dry/use/cp/more resin a go. The more resin on the wraps, the better... like little plump footballs. Or piles.... LOL......
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HIo, Folks.... I did a search using bald spots, then fisheyes, and found lots of cases where it happened, what thread was used, etc, but all the reports I read dealt with the condition, not the fix. I did not see a case where the condition was corrected. Short, that is, of tearing off the offending guide, and going again. If there was a fix, I didn't spot it. Do we have a fix. Thanks. KD. PS
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There may be a case for a continuous wrap (on each DF guide, not down the whole stick)....this style of wrap looks not-too-bad using a metallic thread.... the spiral under the guide ring looks pretty OK. THE CASE: A: the entire guide would get a coat of resin, ensuring a tight seal-off under each guide foot, preventing moisture from entering and eventually compromising the wrap. B: if a repair
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I've done handles with 4-strands. I lost my way big-time when trying 6 and up, and went back to 4. With 2 colours, one can do either a diamond pattern, or a spiral pattern (candy-cane) depending on the first weave's colour layout. The diamond is the hardest, as it looks hokey if the diamonds are not aligned straight. Candy cane makes no never mind.
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Hio, Ron.....Butt boxes are a nice touch to any project..... there is a niche market up this way for these things...... they are like timepieces.... why tell it with a Timex, when a bling Seiko does it too. Up-scale butt boxes are especially popular on pin rods. As soon as I locate his URL, I will send you a note. Unsure if Andy Snedden (sponsor on the left) carries his stuff, so I'll go off-
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I tried the drywall mesh. Didn't like it, as I could not apply as much pressure on it to cut, because it kept clogging up. So I went back to low-tech...open coat 50 grit. My lathe has enough torque to burn me, if I grip the paper too tight. I remove cork on 270 degrees of the circle, not just the top (barely) 90 degree footprint, like lots of folks do. I grab a 3" strip mittful of sandpaper,
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Interesting read, Chris.....and size D ncp of a few years ago *was* the size of normal E !! These days, I'm finishing off the wrap directly on top of the guide foot, in line with the ring. A quick little burnish, and it's pretty much invisible.
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I wonder who got the floss contract. Another North American concern, or...............??
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I buy the bigger putups of resin, and then "decant" into smaller bottles with York type caps. During colder times, I radar both components. BUT: "not" together, and FOR SURE not the same time for both. The hardner takes about twice the time to 'loosen' as the resin. So here, I go 7 seconds for the resin, and 15 for the hardner. This with the 2 fluid ounce sized bottles.
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Persuant to Stan's post above: it's technically not that hard to conceal the hood with the affected ring of cork. (First ring, or last ring, depending on how you call it, on the grip)
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Possibly, you are getting the __line weight of the flyrod__ mixed in with the diameter of the reel seat? If memory serves, the smallest reel seat is 16 or so MM inside diameter, nominal. Many of the sponsors over on the left will show all the reel seats out there, so you can pick the one with the diameter and specs that works for you.
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Really easy to cut, but cutting them square is not easy, freehand. if you can get the cork on a wood mandrel, it becomes that much easier. If you can make a 90 degree 'backstop', with a slot, or have access to a woodworkers "miter box", it starts to get real easy. Use a very sharp olfa cutter, ot extremely sharp French kitchen knife, and slice your way to the mandrel, then rotate. T
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Importation queries and costs comes up a lot. There is a class action suit going on right now in Canada against UPS. "Brokerage" fees is the challenge. Very few, American vendors of any product, let alone rod stuff, are aware that UPS tacks on a (hidden) substantial fee to clear the freight through our border bandits, cleverly disguised as Revenue Canada, Customs and Immigration. (dar
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TOP: Perm. fixture: How about coroplast. Temp fixture: "Banquet paper".....36 or 48" roll. BP is white, and about 4.00 a roll, depending on lineal feet. Coroplast comes in many colours, in 4 x 8 sheets, and is a semi-gloss 'waxy' plastic,, meaning resin puddles will just lift off with a slight pry on the edge. Semi gloss is nice when the light is strong. Hardly any bounce back.
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What Spencer said. Andy is a very nice person to do commerce with. If Victoria was not so far away, I'd probably have a tent set up in his back yard... :=-)
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Hio.....why not investigate the stabilization process? End of worries. Game, set, match.
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Unlucky....I also had a one ounce spool of blue go horribly wrong...it was all crazed, looped, wrapped backwards on the spool, and generally a horror show. I wrote the company, explained the deal, and offered to return the spool for inspection. I was assertive but not arrogant, and my return letter was up-beat, along with the dozen 100 yd. spools of black as an olive branch. I got to keep the
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Sidebar, but related: I know of a supplier of various metallic threads in weight "40, " whatever that means.....5000 yards, for 23.95 plus shipping. Is that good?
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Hi, Tony.....With the demise of Richard's Rod/Reel, the Canuck Connection got severed. The magazine is printed on really heavy stock, meaning the postage, and the administration issues Tom faces, for international shipping, become un-economical. What we need is a willing soul close to the border, who can scoot over to an American post office outlet, and do a re-mail on this side of the border.
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Hio, Tony.....I lean towards a wool/acrylic "tartan" type fabric. I do not sew, and therefore I have them made for me. To make it faster, therefore less spendy, I pick the tartans because they always have built in straight guide lines for sewing, and cutting. And they add a nice touch of class to the rods. They are usually a heavy weave and weight, making cutting and sewing easier. M
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I live in a rural area, and tell the sales desk I'm doing peanut butter these days.... always good for a laugh. No-one here has worries about the syringes, because I request the bodies only, no needles. At the pharmacy, I buy the 3 CC models at .15 cents CAD, and at the feed store I can buy from 12 to 50 CC's for .35-95 cents. I used to eyeball the a/b components, but these days, I can't see like
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Thanks, Tom. Appreciated....I have never had a frozen putup of any make, before. I have seen the resin part, of other makes (as you wrote) get a bit chunky at the bottom of the container, and either a short hit in the radar, or a soak in the tub fixes that. Best, KD
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Hello....I checked the search, saw nothing, and noted Andy's away on project. We have outside mail delivery at one of the rural route pigeon coops. The Threadmaster I purchased, was subjected to below freezing temps for 3 days, as I was away. Lowest temp, I believe, was -20C, or 4 below 0 F. Has/will harm have come to the product, upon coming back up to room temp? Thanks. KD
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Hi, Dan. This is a "spigot" type ferrule. Yes, it's a structual requirement to wrap the tip. "Back in the day", it was usually a 2 inch wrap on EACH..... This make it look nice in some eyes, covering up the colour shift of the spigot on the butt section, and balancing it off on the tip section. These days, the line of thought has gone minimalist....a wrap designed to preven
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