I'm doing a pin rod. Center pin rods are not usually found south of 49. I'm using a Sage SA4110 gear blank, not normally available in America, as they were resurrected by a fellow in BC, built by Sage, coloured either olive green, or diplomat blue, not brown. If you search Sage SA4110B or Sage CT4110B you should get an overview of the type of rod out there. Fred's Custom Tackle is doing built r
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Roger, I edited my post to reflect that very concept, as you were posting. I appreciate your input, Americans are very good at forgetting about the rest of the globe.... #1 and all....We just don't have the options you guys have. I have gone through American Tackle, Pac Bay, Mudhole. None of these offer the seat the sport wants. Yes, there are spin/casting graphite models, at a good ID, but they
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Hi, Justin....I do much the same, with a twist. Most everybody has a dollar store close by. Their imitation 'scotch tape' is extremely thin, and stretchy. Plus cheap. I secure the guide to the rod with this stuff, do the threadwork, and apply the 5, 15, 20, 30, or 45 minute resin...whichever time permits. Then, if the sport does decide to get the repair redone, the resin does not stick so ha
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Thanks, Folks.... The Mudhole option is out. It's 16 mm outside diameter, not inside diameter. there is no Canadian supplier of cloth as far as I know, RE, making my own. This would be a one-off, so I'm not prepared to spend a hundred dollars+ on cloth, resin, tooling, etc, wade through the learning curve, wasting resources, so that's out too. I'll just tell the sport to 'fuggeddaboudit"
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Good day. A search on the above brings up about 20 pages, far too much in attempting to locate info on thinner tubing, as mentioned by Bob, in his Custom Tackle Supply post of a few years ago. Did the thinner stuff ever happen? I have a sport who wants a graphite seat with metal hardware, and about 15.7 mm bore. the Pac Bay folks make a spin/cast seat, but with the cheesy non-metal hoods and h
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In a capitalist society, it's really easy: charge what the traffic will bear. Where I Iive, there is no traffic. So that solves that problem. This is a destination location, so rodsters arrive with all their stuff. Fat cats from all over the world. As to the question: When I'm consigned to do a custom rod, I charge what I myself would pay in time-tariff for the rod at hand. Degree of diff
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Unsure where you live, but if you fish the salt, you will rue the day you went cork. Unless you seal it really well, and keep it clean, cork will go ratty, lose all the voids, and make the stick look like a 19.99 beater inside of two seasons. To remove the eva, carve it off with a knife, being careful not to cut into the blank. You can do this up front as well, and leave the seat as is. Unle
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Thanks, Folks. I get it that no one wants to save flawed work. (pics) I wish I'd photoed some of the horror shows from yesteryear. I had 2 mm pocks, half the wrap totally bald, etc. These were the days before the internet. It was not invented yet. No instant messaging, or sharing of ideas. So it was books, self-learning, and maybe a quick long distance call to somebody somewhere. Cheers, KD
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Hio, Folks... My home forum in BC (flybc.ca) has a poster looking for an image of fisheyes on a guide or ferrule wrap... he's unfamilar with the term, and wants a visual. I checked the search in pics, and text and came up nada. Would someone here know of an image out there, showing bald spots and fisheyes. Thanks a tonne, KAD.
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I have a heel of envirotex resin and hardeer, coming up 15 years old, and it still cures. The hardner's a bit more amber than it was fresh, back then. I no longer use it for wraps, instead, using it as a glue for reel seats, etc. That's only because the chemistry has changed upwards over time. imho. Threadmaster light being a good example. cheers, kd.
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I wrap the metal keeper down without the ring. Then I go to the jewlery store, and use either a silver plate, or gold plate, ~split ring~ like they use on charm bracelets. I've seen three sizes, from small on up.. there may be more, but our store carries three sizes. Works for me...your mileage may vary. Oh yeah: the rings cost about 50 cents for silver, and a dollar for gold. Gold never tarnish
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Thanks a tonne, KP, for your most informative post. Much appreciated. Cheers, KD.
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john timberlake Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > it is a uv cure finish. Cork4u has had it at the > ICRBE for several years. they are great for > repairs or as whole rod as you coat it and it > cures in a few seconds. they have a newer version > of their resin that i haven't had a chance to try > yet. Just one of the things that can be
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Randolph Ruwe Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What 5 minute resin as you call it is designed for > guide wraps? None, that I am aware of. I have using this stuff for over 25 (twenty-five) years now, for down and dirty repairs on low-end rods. When a repair is needed on a 29.99 rod, I'm not into using a resin that takes 6 hours to dry tack free, and
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Acknowledged, Tom, Thanks, KD
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Using this as my search term, I got 10 hits that had nothing to do with the subject. The question, therefore, is this: For "Down and Dirty" guide repairs on rods under 50.00 retail, have posters here opted to use the uv resin. The stuff is cured in mere seconds, allowing a rodster to go fishing pretty quick. I have followed various threads at fly fishing forums, where many resins a
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Loomis is respected in my marketplace... and to make it even easier, they are prepped and wrapped in Canada, by LG Custom Tackle, Mount Hope, Ontario. Unsure if they get the rods already corked, or if they do that in ON. But it makes life easier for sure. It's a pain sending other USA brands back to America. Unless one is fortunate enough to live along the border, to slide across and mail away f
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Bill: this is the first failure on any repair, since 1972 (I've been at this a while...) with no heat....I have seen the results of folks using heat... they destroy the blank because they use too much, weakening the blank so it just falls apart at that place. Thanks just the same. But, I'll go with Tom's analysis....a fluke.
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wow. Was I ever bummed out at the following. My chosen method of old guide removal is to slice the threads on top of the guide foot, and remove that _band_ of thread, then grab the loose end, and unwind. Well. I did that on this GL3 from Loomis, and the top layer of carbon and the gel coat came with the threads !!!!! When I got over my shock and disbelief at this one and only event, I had t
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Thanks folks.... Not living in America, or frequenting the board too often, I may have committed a faux pas with this topic. Tom: pull it if you want. Shardy is that term which decribes resin coming off the wrap like shards of actual glass...very hard, and hurtful if you get hit in the face, as you unravel the tread. Like many things coming from the pacific rim, this type of resin was formulated
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Hi, Folks. In order to locate something via any search, one must first use a search term that brings something back. Such was not the case with the above. So if this has come up prior, I did not see it via search. The question: when it cures, is it hard and "shardy", like that used on Asian rods, if you take it off down the road, or is it flexible like threadmaster envirotex, flexcote
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All suggestions are being sent to to Stewart at flybc... looks like to one I missed so far in my guesses, was a loose inner ring. Those I have encountered, but not the noisy kind. The few I've experianced were silent. Thanks to folks so far. KD.
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Hi, Folks, no, and no. It's the guide. KD.
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Hi, Folks. this from a BC board, where the author has something totally foreign to me. As such all I could do was guess. His post, followed by my guesses: Sport: "This is my 3rd build and am by no means an expert. Just finished a 3wt RPL and just went out to the yard to wiggle it. There is a flexy/scratchy kind of noise coming from the stripper guide as the rod flexes. It must be loos
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Belay my query on the tm post above.... I just noticed this thread, where the cure-to-tack-free time is showing. Thanks, KD.
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Hello Scott. I checked out the application procedures, for the TM one, and did not see the clock time to tack free. I see the 3 day wait to cure, but not to tack free. For this post, let's just say +20 centigrade. That's about 72 or so in the F scale. Thanks, Ken.
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I've always warmed the product, to re-liquify, then waited a bit, to permit the product to regain some viscosity. I store the product in the kitchen in the cupboards above the fridge, so they catch come latent heat off the compressor, along with room temp. Tom's bang-on RE: product remaining liquid..I recently bought some Great Planes 45 minute epoxy that was bottom-solid when I bought it, f
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Thanks, gents, but the question remained unanswered. If I were to use the resin which had one inch of solids on the bottom, and liquid above, will I still be chemicaally viable. The resin (Threadmaster regular) had 3/4" of what looked like white solids on the bottom, and liquid above. At the Canadian pricing for this product, I was not ready to experiment and use the resin without warmin
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Hi, Folks....whereas this topic has come up many times, but I cannot seem to note a missing key aspect, I thought I'd go again. Many brands of resin, after a time, will show hardness at the bottom of the putup. I usually microwave, to re-liquify. However: (reason for today's post) is it necessary, chemically, to re-incorporate ALL the solids that have presented themselves after storage perio
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Hio, Roger, if it were mine, yes. But it's 10-3 (used to be 10-6) and needs to be transported in the cab his pickup. I found a taper that's very close: off the butt section of a Sage z-axis flyrod. Good wall thickness, and I'll be able to reduce the rear of that, to blend into the butt section, and do a pin-in/sleeve-over affixation. I have already advised the rodster that if it breaks it br
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