Please no comments on the packing of threads, etc. This was one of my first wraps over 14 years ago so I know its terrible. I am trying to locate the instructions for this. I dont recall which publiction I found them in. Any help would be appreciated.
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Again, please no comments on the packing of threads, ets. This was one of the first wraps I ever did over 14 rears ago. I was playing around with different methods of dec wraps.
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Billy, in talking with BD, I think I have to agree that this is not "Interposing Angles". His anaylisis on a thread by thread basis of my crappy pictures leads me back to a "Vertical Wrap". I do recall laying down vertical threads for the center diamond in yellow. I have 2 rods in the works right now and will be revisiting this when I get those done. And the searh continues...
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DING, DING, DING, DING.....Cam Clark would be the guy. For some reason I knew you would know it. Thanks, Billy. Now to just find the article. lol.
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My first guess is that it is the natural spine, however, if the rod was left in a boat for a very long period of time or even a very hot garage it could develpe a spine. The first tip off would be which way the curve goes. If the curve is in line with the guides, its probably a natural spine. If not it could be something else that caused it. How long was it in your posession and leaning on a wall
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The inittial layout of the threads, I layed down 6 or more threads going up and down the blank and taped them down to the blank then proceeded with cross wraps. I just posted 2 pics under thread art.
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A few years back (10-15 = a few....lol) there were printed instructions somewhere on how to do a butt wrap using threads layed out vertically along the axis of the rod. The wrap turned out not too bad and was fairly unique and I still have the rod today. Will post pics when I get a chance to take some new ones. Anyway, I dont recall where I read the instructions and I have a customer wanting this
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As Tom said, repairs are an excellent source of building a great customer base. The other most important thing I can say is advertise, advertise and advertise some more. The quality of your rods (as previously mentioned) is your best advertisement. Best of luck.
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Just a word about Armoral.......If it is used to often, your line will begin to dry out and crack and eventually break. A perfect example is people who used to use Armoral on their car tires to shine them up, even the highest quality tires began cracking where it was applied. Just MHO.
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I did find a size 4 ring which will be fine, however, the largest tube size they offer is a 7 and I actually need an 8 so hopefully scraping off the paint will bring it down enough. Thanks for all your help guys. I appreciate it.
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I think I tend to agree with you Tom. In my humble opinion its nothing more than putting fly guides on a regular spinning or casting rod. Good to be back to working on rods again. Its been a long time.
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Thanks, Iam rechecking all my measurements. Is the typical ring size a 4 for a micro tip? The actual tube size OD is .10
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Repairing a Carrot Stick CLTXPG761H - c , 7'6" heavy. 15-30lb. Tip is totally broken off including rod. Im having trouble locating components much less a tip with the size tube I need. 9/64". Anyone have any idea's where I can find micro tip tops for this rod?? Mudhole does not have a tube that big. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Vern
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Have yoiu ever seen the mechanics price liist Tires: 150 each, if you bring your own 250.00each Mounting: 25.00 ea, if they are your tires, 50.00 ea Labor: 150.00, if you watch 350.00
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Wish they would change the laws in Minnesota (although I have second thoughts about that), either that or some customers from down south as if they couldnt find a good builder down there....lol Sounds fantastic for tournament fishing, doesnt matter if its new or not, its new to the bass fishing world thats all that matters. Whole different customer base. Thanks for the heads up. Vern
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Had a small black pencil mark on red nylon thread as a marker spot. I tried to gently use an eraser to remove it and it just spread making the problem worse. Tried alcohol and that didnt work. Any idea''s on how to get it off without ruining the thread color? Thanks
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Thanks, Billy
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I was trying to get the diamond wrap as close as possible to the reel seat. And your right there is now reason for the rubberized finish to come off. Never had it happen before. Iam getting some of it off with alchohol but you really have to scrub it hard to get it off, but yet tape takes it off in chunks. Pretty darn frustrating. Will acetone melt the reel seat?? Iam afraid to try it as I dont w
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This is cushioned "rubber" reel seat with the metal flake black fisnish. I believe its graphite under the finish, its shiny black under the finish.
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Tom, no need to send a new password to the other email address I had listed, I wasnt sure if you had the new address or not. Obviously, i got the new one. Thank you for sending it. Vern
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I have a cushioned NPS reel seat that I had taped my threads to well doing diamond work on the rod, when I peeled the tape off it took off the finish from the reel seat. Any idea's how I can remove the rest of the finish? Or can I marble over the reel seat with the type of finish they have over them. Thanks.
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I use two coats of CP and one coat of Classic hi build. I used to rotate mine by hand until I broke down and bought a lathe. Sometimes I think you can get a better more even finish by hand as you are paying alot more attention to sags etc where on a lathe I just put it on and let it spin over night. I usually check it once or twice but it never gets the attention that hand rotation does. As Andre
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I have used alcohol burners, although it has to be watched extremely close as not to burn the blank. I seems to me steaming it off as you state would work. Let us know if you do it that way, it might catch on. At least I would try it anyway.
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Ive never had anything but quality from Fuji and as Tom said, they stand behind their product 110%. I have had some chipping but its been my own fault.
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I live in Taylors Falls, however we have held meetings withing an hours drive. Fergus Falls is quite the long haul I would think, but you are always welcome. Or you can email me and I can let you know what it took to start up the club we have. My email address is rodsbyvern@mywdo.com Feel free to d
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I have started a rod building club in central Minnesota. It is not affiliatted with or sponsored by any organization. Nor is there any formal organization to the club itself. We are just a bunch of rod builders who get together about once a month and discuss various subjects. Each month is a new topic and usually one person does a demonstration of that particular topic such as how to use a lathe,
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Congrats Tom, the more sponsors you can get the happier we can be. New places to get supplies cant be beat.
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Roger, I use the exact scenario, I always have and always will, it just seems easier especially if you have shakey hands or very large fingers, here I thought I was the only one who did it that way. Its an additional step but makes life that much easier. I even teach that method as well as the normal method in my classes. It seems less frustrating to the kids to tape the tag end up the rod a lit
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I warranty all my work for 1 year unless there has been abuse. The rods and components are covered by the manufacturer in most cases, however, if the center ring comes off a guide its not usually manufacturer problems. Its usually abuse or failure from incorrect guide placement among other things. I charge to replace guides that this happens too and warranty again only my craftsmanship.
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Berkley makes a BBSF which is just the opposite, but you might check with them to see if they make them just the opposite. They are available through Netcraft.
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