This is an OK description of both styles of BBQ. However, the author made NO mention of the differences in cole slaw. Lexington BBQ uses a red slaw that has a peppery, vinigery base and not mayonnaise. Here is a list of restaurants in Lexington: However, as a native of Guilford County, I tend to favor Stamey's in Greensboro across from the Greensboro Colesium. I was shocked to find that
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Thanks for the advice. I tend to do my handle shaping using a power-drill based Grizzly lathe and Andy Dear's mandrels. That said, it might be nice to be able to do it all in one place or to shape handles on the blank. I actually have been checking out your RBO specials page and that is what has given me pause on buying the demo model. Amortizing the cost difference over the expected life
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I have a dealer offering me a Pac Bay Rodsmith Rod Wrapper Model RW-3L. It is a store demo model and the price would be $230 plus shipping. I have read a lot of the old messages dealing with the differences between the plastic chuck on the RW-3L and the aluminum chuck on the RW-XL and RW-3XL. The general consensus is that the aluminum chuck is preferred. I am wrestling with the price differ
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I'm running into trouble finishing off the guide wrap with this thread. The metallic thread is so slick that the whip finish isn't holding that well. Any suggestions? John
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If this was going to be a heavier rod, I'd consider doing double wraps. However, I want to keep the weight down since it is an ultralight. I'm strongly leaning towards using the Sulky metallic instead of the teal nylon just because I think it will set off the holographic rings more. John
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I'm building an ultra-light surf rod for pompano using a Shikari steelhead blank. The guides are American Tackle single foot TiCh finish with holographic rings. I have some metallic Sulky thread that is a variegated teal green and purple which I think would set off the holographic rings nicely. However, I wonder how strong this would be compared to Size A nylon. I just wrapped the ferrule usin
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Chris, As someone here just told me earlier in the week, there is a great Internet tool to go back and find old websites and their content. If you need to see stuff on the Shikari blanks such as in a catalog to get specs, go to and use the tool WayBack Web. You'll be able to pull up many of their old webpages. John
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Thanks for the help and suggestions. And to Tommy who emailed me the 2004 catalog. I'm going to follow them up now and if I find anything, I'll report it here. I can't believe I'm the only one to buy these blanks. John
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If I understood correctly, this was the last year that Lamar Fishing and the Dears would be bringing the trashcans full of All*Star discontinued blanks. Of course, I took full advantage of it and even picked up a few more right at the end of the show. I am hoping that someone on the board might have an old All*Star catalog and can translate their labeling system for me. I was able to look up s
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After the cold weather that we've been having in the mountains of NC, the 40s will seem warm to me. I think it was in the mid 20s here this morning and the mid teens yesterday. I feel bad for Mark coming from Southern Cal because NC in the winter is NOT the sunny South - even in the Piedmont.
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Bob, I'd love to see you attend the High Point show. I did a 2-day spey casting seminar with Jim Rusher up in Pulaski, NY on the Salmon River a few years ago. However, I don't know much about the European and NW methods of using two-handed rods. I'd really like to try one for saltwater. Bottom line is that I'd attend your seminars and casting demos. John
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There are a lot of good points here. First, that the manufacturer's specs are targets. Trust your own measurement. Second, to buy at least a second tip top that is larger in case of breakage to the rod tip. Finally, if ordering the blank and tip at the same time, ask them to make sure it fits before they ship. Being a bit of a newbie, I went with the manufacturer's measurements and took them a
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Hi! I just measured the tip on a popping rod blank. The manufacturer lists the tip size as 4.5. However, using my Tip Sizer that I got a gift in Charlotte from one of the component manufacturers, I find that the tip is tight on the 5.0 hole and looks like it will fit the 5.5 better. Which measurement do I trust? The manufacturer's listed tip size or the Tip Sizer. Would I do better to buy a
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Look for punches called "Gasket Punches". I have a set I got for cutting rings in EVA foam to use for fly tying. I think I paid about $5 for an inexpensive set on @#$%&. I got the idea from Harrison Steeves who has published a couple of books on using foam in terrestrial flies. He suggested using a deburring tool used in cartridge reloading as a way to keep them sharp. It works very
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I had a question about using a laser printer but I should have searched the archives first! I got my question answered. Thanks -John
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I am working on a decal or label as described in RodMaker Magazine Vol 9 Issue 3. I can do it on an ink jet like described in the article. However, I also have access to a very high quality color laser printer. If I printed the label on a color laser printer, would that work just as well as if it were done with an ink jet printer? I realize that a laser printer uses fused toner instead of ink
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I did try that and just got a message back from them. It is a 8 ft 7 wt fiberglass fly rod blank. It is from the early to mid 80s. Thanks for the suggestion. -John
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I have looked in the Lamiglas catalog but can't find it. What is a CFL-97-7F blank? It is a two piece blank with a "Lamiflex Ferrule" according to the label on the package. Thanks for the help. -John
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Joe, Other current fiberglass blank makers include Diamondback and Steffen Brothers. Both have gotten very good reviews from the fiberglass rod gurus on the board The Diamondglass is known to be a bit faster than other fiberglass rods. Hope this helps. -John PS: Another alternative is to get an older fiberglass rod and re-do it. @#$%& always has a number of glass rods on @
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When I pried off the covers, there was still a bunch of green grease in the bearings. I soaked them overnight in mineral spirits and scrubbed off any that was left. Then I washed them in Dawn grease cutting detergent and dried them with a hair dryer. I epoxied them into the pipe fitting and oiled them this morning. What a difference! I understand what spinning freely means now! Thanks for all
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Thanks for the tips on how to improve the bearings I bought. I got them at an electric motor supply shop and I think they were made in Korea. -John
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I guess it gets down to what people call "moving freely." Does it mean that if I stick the bearing on the end of my finger and twirl it, it runs and runs? OR does it mean that the inner and outer rings move independently of one another in a smooth fashion? Should I try and pry off the metal covering the bearings so that I clean out the grease better? Thanks -John
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I know spine finders have been beaten to death. That said, I picked up a pair of sealed ball bearing assemblies yesterday to make a spine finder. I figured why not. Trying the method that someone suggested of using a Black and Decker Workmate, I chucked the bearings in the jaws and then put the blank in the bearings. It doesn't seem to do anything when I push down on the tip of the blank. W
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To follow up on Cliff Hall's message, I got the SWS-5400 from Andy Dear of Lamar Fishing at the Charlotte Show for $10. He may have more of the blanks left so you might want to check with him first if that is the blank you intend to go with. -John
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Tim, I'm glad you mentioned the pipe insulation. I was trying to figure a way to make sure the rods were protected. I had thought about foam in both ends and putting them in bags. In addition to that, the pipe insulation sounds like a great addition. What I like about using some like the conduit carrier is that it lessens the likelihood of a rod getting broken in my SUV or hurting someone i
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I have begun noticing electricians and plumbers with a 6" PVC pipe with end caps on their roof racks. I ran into a guy tonight at dinner and found out it is called a conduit carrier. You buy the cast aluminum end pieces, put it on your own pipe, and then attach it with U-bolt (or similar) to your roof rack. Most are even lockable. I would put foam in the ends to protect the rods and put t
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Check with L. L. Bean. They were giving outfits to TU chapters to use a giveaways at Kid's Fishing Day, etc. I think it is called their First Start outfit. Perhaps they will supply all 12 outfits or give you a very reduced price. -John
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Having read all the references to Dale Clemen's "Custom Rod Thread Art", I decided I needed a copy. I checked Amazon.com and was blown away by the price for a used copy. I watched for it on @#$%& and lost a couple of @#$%&. Then, I got smart. I checked to see which of the sponsors had a copy. I saw that Golden Witch still offered it in their catalog. I popped an email to them and a d
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I think the chips sold for use as accents for cue sticks are a great idea if you only want to use it as an accent in a rod grip. However, at one of Rich Forhan's seminars in Charlotte, he passed around a rod he built with poker chips in the grip. While the chips did provide an accent, Rich used them as a means to transmit more feeling from the rod to your hand while fishing. -John
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I'm planning on putting a split grip on a popping rod I'm building. I just got my Grizzly Hobby Lathe and have ordered turning madrels from Andy Dear. What I can't figure out is how to turn or shape the rubberized cork end cap on the butt of the rod. The cork I have is solid (no hole) and I'd like to keep it that way. Do I shape the cork end piece by hand and then glue it to the rest of the g
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