I have a dealer offering me a Pac Bay Rodsmith Rod Wrapper Model RW-3L. It is a store demo model and the price would be $230 plus shipping.

I have read a lot of the old messages dealing with the differences between the plastic chuck on the RW-3L and the aluminum chuck on the RW-XL and RW-3XL. The general consensus is that the aluminum chuck is preferred.

I am wrestling with the price difference between this model and the other models. The price difference is approximately $75-80 between this one and the other models which are offered by many of the sponsors of this site. Is the upgraded chuck worth the extra investment?

Thanks for your help and suggestions.

John

Just my opinion, but if you plan to do any handle shaping at all, it's worth the money. The aluminum chuck is smoother opening & closing than the plastic unit, but other than that, the plastic chuck works fine for it's intended purpose. Holding the rod. It's not the chuck that's going to make as much of a difference as the ball bearing headstock. There's no runout with the upgraded headstock/chuck assy., where the runout can be considerable after you get some hours on the plastic headstock/chuck.

As far as the demo being "worth it" or not is up to you. Check the shipping before you pull the trigger. It can be expensive. Also, is it the new thread carriage or the old one? If nothing else, keep in the back of your mind that you can upgrade the RW-3L to an RW3-XL down the road for under $100. The upgraded chuck/headstock is the ONLY difference. The only difference between the RW3-XL and the RW-XL is the tubular bed. We sell 30 RW3-XL's to one RW-XL, and we sell two RW3-XL's to one RW-3L.

When weighing your options, consider this one into it... We have an RBO ONLY Special for the RW3-XL with free shipping here --> [] That special isn't linked else on our site. It's only available from that link in this forum.

Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

I would consider the upgrade chuck a necessity although I have found the upgrade chuck to come loose often enough that I quit using it a year ago.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Thanks for the advice.

I tend to do my handle shaping using a power-drill based Grizzly lathe and Andy Dear's mandrels. That said, it might be nice to be able to do it all in one place or to shape handles on the blank.

I actually have been checking out your RBO specials page and that is what has given me pause on buying the demo model. Amortizing the cost difference over the expected life of the wrapper and it comes out to be pennies.

Mark, how long does the @#$%& free shipping special last?

Thanks

John

Waynesville, North Carolina --
Gateway to the Smokies

It's good for another couple of weeks. I'll probably put up another post 48 hours before I take it down.

Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

I also consider the upgrade chuck worth it.
Even though it does come loose.
But I also corrected that by putting a strip of tape around the chuchk after I have mounted the rod into the chuck.
Have not had one come loose since even after turning over night in the drying mode.

Mike and Steve

Capt Neil on another board gave me the best suggestion for this chuck. It is to wrap a rubber band around the blank or butt cap where it goes into the chuck. Since I tried this my chuck has never come loose during operation.

I don't use this pac bay for shaping as I have a Lathe.

Ernie

This new chuck they're shipping doesn't seem to be working loose. Haven't heard a word about it since we started shipping it a month ago.

Steve,

To avoid it working loose when drying, make sure the dryer motor rotates the rod TOWARDS you rather than away as it does while wrapping. That way the chuck isn't working against itself trying to open. Another thing that helps is to adjust your final support so that the center of the rod's tip is 4-5/8" up off the bed, then adjust the rest of the supports to support the blank evenly. The rod not being level (blank's tip to chuck center) is what will make the rod's butt walk forward in the jaws.

BTW, that 4-5/8" is from memory on MY two machines. Measure your chuck's center height before taking that 4-5/8" to the bank!

Mark Griffin
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C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

I have never had any trouble withe the new chuck. On the other hand with the older chuck I had to eather wrap the jaws with tap pr rubber band. Also I found this also helps with the older chuck is place surgical tubbing over the jaws, also make sure the chuck is tight. I have 2 pacBay wrappers and use them both at times. I also have a Renzetta. That I use for turning cork. With all 3 I am able too freehand power wrap.
Good Warps Bob

Mark thanks for the tip,
but I build my spinning rods with an offset handle and the measurement would change with each 1/2 revolution of the chuck.

Mark - which new chuck is that? I've had the same problems with the big "gold frame" chuck that I has with the original little plastic-jawed one.

If you can tell me which one I should discuss with them, I'll give Bi=onnie a direct call. They are super folks.

thanks
Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Russ,

There are only two. The plastic one and the aluminum one.

Have Bonnie put you through to Justin. He's in Technical support.

Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California