I think I got this…but please correct me if I’m wrong or I missed something. A rods sensitivity (how much vibration is passed from the line through the rod and is felt in hand) has to do with the stiffness of the rod. It also is effected by the materials used in the handle, and arbors to reel seat surface contact. OK for the most part I think I got that…. In the case of feeling t
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When would you use one over the other? For epoxy work, such as the reel seat and grip, I use the gel, propaste and rod bond. Having never used the liquid form of epoxy, when would you use it? Does one bond better than the other? Pros and Cons of each?
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Who here is expierienced with the mud hole rear split grip cork( you know, the one with the tenon that is designed to fit Fuji casting seats and such..), combined with a Fuji ACS seat? I found that the ridge behind the trigger protrudes above the diameter of the cork, just on the bottom though. I remedied this on my first build with aid of a dremel, and an hour or so of sanding the actual seat,
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Evening all. I have recently started doing my own grips as those of you (its many!) have helped me. Anyways I used the TITEBOND II glue for a small grip that is cork and cocobolo. As I was reaming it today to fit the rod, I noticed one of the cork to cork seams starting to seperate. A) What did I possibly do wrong(dried for plenty of time) and B) What can I do now? As always, many thanks
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Hello all, I have just started turning my own handles and have what may be a stupid question. I scrolled through a ton of all of your awesome pics of handles. Obviously the cork/woodhandle is going to have a hole in it for the madrel, how do you guys cover the whole in the last cork area/butt cap. Mudhole has the buttplugs but I think they are too small. Thanks!
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My name is Kent and I from Sweden and wright english as I speak it - sorry. Where can i buy corkgrip for rods from 11f to 18f .Has ben looking on this site and not much discussed about it.Has even hard to find it among the sponsors.I am very thankful for all help I can get. KentP
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I've decided to try to do a cork ring butt handle, so will 5 min. epoxy work and is it water Resistance, or is there better way to do this I looked up pages of this on the search page, but didn't find if the 5 min epoxy would be OK. And would it be sandable?
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Anyone know of a source for a small (spinning rod size) Carolina Panther decal? I agreed to build a "Panther-themed" spinning rod for a friend. She wants abalone on it, the blank painted teal and a special Carolina Panther inlay. Oh, and just for good measure, she wants to keep the price under $100! Then my wife asks me how much profit I'm gonna make on it-well, we'll honey, I'll ma
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Hi all, I have recently purchased one of these spinning handles from Janns Netcraft: I would like to shorten the rear grip section by about 2.5 inches before I fix it onto the blank. I have only used pre-formed cork grips so far and have never done anything involving cutting and gluing cork. I don't have a lathe - just basic hand tools. I would like some advice and tips on the follow
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I'm building a bass casting rod and the components that I'm having a problem with are the Fuji, TCSD Deluxe Trigger Reel Seat #16 and the FSG-387 Rear Split Grip. When I glued them up there is a mismatch between the reel seat and the cork. In other words, they are not flush with one another. When I dry fit the two, I rotated them individually until there was a pretty good match between the two an
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I had an idea pop into my head about epoxying grips and reel seats. I use devcon epoxies, the five min and 2ton when I epoxy grips and seats to rods. I like the quickness of the 5min, but it is not as strong or as water proof as the 2ton. So what about putting the 2ton epoxy on the ares that will come into contact with water, and the 5min in the central areas that will not be exposed to water?
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If you are looking for an inexpensive bi directional, variable speed motor for your power wrapper; look no futher than your old used up cordless drill. Many many cordless drills are thrown away every year because the battery has gone bad. Rather than throwing the drill away, strip it down, salvage the motor and speed control from the drill and use it to power your power rod wrapper or dry
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I did a few searches and couldn't come up with anything helpful. I'm in the process of gathering up all the material to glue up and turn my own cork handles. I've gotten the cork and need to know what you guys concider the best agent to bond the sheets together. It's going to be several strips of different color cork glued into blocks and turned down to produce and inlaid pattern. I'd like
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I received a grip in the mail that was slightly abused by the USPS. Its broken in 2 but the pieces marry back up cleanly. I believe I can glue back together without a scar. I plan to use a piece of threaded rod with necessary washers and nuts to use as a clamp. I have the following in-house: Rodbond, Gorilla Glue, Elmers Wood Glue. Which would give me the best results? Any other tips appreciated
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I am on my 2nd build. On my first build I used flex coat rod builders epoxy glue. This was applied with a brush and seemed very easy to work with. On my current build I am using pro bond epoxy paste. From what I understand I should let this set up longer. After 24 hrs. it seems it is pretty set to me. With the flex coat you use syringes so you know you are getting the proper mix, with the p
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Making some grips out of cork and EVA. Had them sanded down but wanted to make the foregrip a real small diameter. Got down to 150, then 220 grit and the EVA starts to shred? It looks rough, like I just hit it with sandscreen. No matter how fine the sandpaper I use I still leaves a rough finish on the EVA. Do I need to wet sand it at this point? Thanks!
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Just wanted to know how you guys slice thin strips of EVA and what epoxy do you use to glue strips and rings of EVA into a grip. Do you use a small miter box and fine tooth saw or same with a blade? I was considering slicing 1/8” strips of one color and adding them into another grip as accents. What type epoxy works best for a seamless appearance? Also does one have to be careful on
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Okay, so here's where I've been dissatisfied with my building as of late: when I mount a casting reelseat, the screw on end does not generally end up to be evenly spaced around the blank. There is always an uneven gap between the I.D. of the seat and the O.D. of the blank. First off, it would be easiest if the manufacturers would make them the same diameter as the rest of the barrel. If it's
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I have just started to glue up and turn my own fly rod grips. Instead of buying a cork clamp I got some 1/4 threaded rod. Now I knew that the glue would get into the threads and prevent me from having an easy time removing the glued up cork from the rod, so I wrapped the threaded rod with plumbers thread seal tape, and glued them up. Let it sit over night and the damn thing came off really easy,
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I have just finished handles on the blanks for 3 very heavy action Muskie rods, using Syncork as handle material. I had not used Syncork before on a rod, but only for test purposes on a mandrel. T he client wanted Syncork on the handle due to the advertised toughness of this material. I spent some time withe the supplier, and one thing that they stressed was to build up these handles ONL
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Can someone email me instructions on building ventilated rod grips. Thanks in advance Mike Mikes Custom Fly Rods
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Can anyone tell me where to acquire expansion vises of the type sold many years ago by Dale Clemens?
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Anyone have any experience with this? Saw it advertised at a custom rod web site, it was offered in black. Is it different than EVA? I have to say, with cork costs, it would be nice to see more alternatives. Thanks, Marc
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Hi, this is probably an old subject, but I am new, so I hope this question is okay. I have reamed 22 cork rings to make a fore grip for a switch rod. I want to glue them together. I plan on using U-40 Rod Bond. I understand that I can compress them together using an all thread "mandrel". How do I keep the holes concentric? and how do I keep the epoxy from cementing the cork to my a
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Looking for a couple 1/4" x 18" mandrels. Can some one point me in the right direction. Thanks
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can i use exterior (carpenters) wood gIue to hoId my grips together? if so, how Iong wiII they Iast? as Iong as e-poxy, i think not?.... right?
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I have been looking for epoxy at the lpcal stores, Loews, Menards, Ace Hardware. I am un able to find "regular set". I can find 5 min, I can find 1 hour "jell", grey marine and several others. Does anyone know where I can find "plain old epoxy" the 12 or 24 hour cure? I am going to use it for the handle, reel seat and tip. thanks in advance tom
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Hi everybody, I have a small issue . It seems that I neglected to order five min epoxy for my first build. I purchased some (Loctite professional 5 min), but in closer inspection it states not for prolonged contact with water. I can't find any water proof epoxy local. Should I use this for cork grips? Gluing up rings and also attaching to the rod. What about (gorilla glue) I have tons of
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So I did my first set of eva checker rings....They came out ok....A few things though. When gluing them up I used contact adhesive on both sides pressed them together for a few minutes,then on to the next one..After all pieces were glued I used rubber bands to ''clamp'' them over night...After that I sanded and cut them into 1/8'' rings... The pieces I glued were about an 1'' long so I could cut
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So i tried epoxying the reel seat last night to the blank, I of coarse used the precise method of pouring and checking to make sure my resin and hardener were in equal amounts. After about 5 min, and slapping a significant amount of epoxy onto the masking tape that i used as shims, the epoxy got really hot and melted the plastic cup and the tip of my finger. By this time however i had
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