can i use exterior (carpenters) wood gIue to hoId my grips together? if so, how Iong wiII they Iast? as Iong as e-poxy, i think not?.... right?

I, as most others do, use Titebond III to glue up cork grips. Never had a problem.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

Michael,

As Jay stated, no issues. Ihave handles that are 15-20 years old that are just fine.

Tight lines,

john

I ALWAYS use Titebond II or III (Wood glue)., Another advantage is no glue lines

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Another Titebond user here.

nice! I am a carpenter and have gaIIons of titebond. thankx, you stiII have to
e-poxy the cork to the bIank, right..?

I use Rod Bond to adhere the finished grip to the blank.

Ditto on the Rod Bond.

JH

I build my cork handles on the rod blank. I use Flex Coat epoxy and a brush and as I put on a cork ring I paint the top of the last ring & blank. When finished I clamp the handle tight and let dry overnight. This method seems to work for me. Be sure and wrap the reel seat & exposed blank in masking tape before doing any sanding of the handles. I also use several thin coats of Tru Oil when the sanding is complete. This seems to protect the cork from fish slime & scales and after a year or so a light sanding & another coat of Tru Oil returns the cork to like new condition. I do not have a problem with the cork being slippery when wet.

I use the rod bond. I put the rings on a threaded rod. Put three dabs of rod bond on a ring, bring the next one down to it and turn several times. Then do the same on the next ring. You only need a little of this stuff. Clamp tight and no glue rings.

Bill - willierods.com

I always use Rod Bond by Trondak. If you clamp tight you well never see a glue ring. I read years ago that
Carpenters glue well not cure correctly, do the reasoning that it needed air to cure. Where Rod Bond curies by a chemical reaction. Also it stays where you put it and does not run. Clean ups is easy a little water mixed with denatured alcohol and liquid soap. I have never had a grip or reel seat come lose sense I started using it in the 80's. Ralph OQuinn developed the stuff while still working for a major NW plane manufacture. If it holds planes together, I see no reason why I should not use it

Good Wraps Bob

Michael

I do not use any glue or adhesive that cures harder than the cork. If the adhesive is harder than the cork it tends to leave raised edges at the glue lines if you are not careful when sanding to shape. I use Weld wood or Plio bond contact cement because it is flexible and waterproof. It is very important that the assembly be clamped (compressed) tightly until the adhesive fully cures. Clamping insures the thinnest glue line possible and will result in a better finish after sanding.

John

Titebond III for cork. I like Rod Bond to glue grips to the blank. I am really liking Quick Bond (fast cure version of Rod Bond). It allows me to get more done in an evening. I just finished up the last of my Andy's 15 minute gel. It works just fine, but it smells a bit too skunky for me.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

John RB does flex some. If it didn't a major plane builder would not use it. As for glue lines I have none because I just apply mine to the center of the ring and spin the ring to spread it out, no glue lines. This subject is not written in stone. So if you have a way that works for you, use it by all means.

Good Wraps Bob

Wood glue does not need exposure to air to cure, otherwise wood workers could not use it where pieces are clamped tightly or in laminating pieces together.

I too am a Titebond lll user on cork and wood.

thankx feIIas