I built a switch rod grip on the blank, but discovered the uppermost 3 " has a small amount of movement when I put a little side torque on it. I gather I somehow must not have gotten enough epoxy onto the blank at that section. I don't want it to get worse, and I don't want to strip everything off and re-do it. I wondering if I can poke a syringe down through the winding check and squirt som
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I am new to the open water rod building world but have built quite a few ice rods. However, turning a full custom cork ring handle is something I am both excited and nervous for. I am building a couple rods with custom cork rings handles and would like to turn them directly on the blank. I know using Titebond III is ideal for gluing rings to create a minimal seam, however, that won’t work in
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On my last build i glued up the reel seat and 1 pc foam arbor at the same time. The arbor spun a little and moved a little when i installed them. This time i thought id try gluing up the arbor first. Should i glue the arbor to the blank first or should i glue the arbor to reel seat first then install on blank? thanks, mark
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Hey Fellas.. I am looking to source unshaped cork stock.. Really just round unshaped cork in 1.25" DIA with a 3/8" or 1/2" center bore if possible.. Lengths with a minimum of 10" would be awesome but longer lengths are OK.. Anyone know of any supplier or vendor I may be able to use to source this?
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Hey guys so I was wondering if anyone could link me to a clamp for split grips. I have noticed that on the two rods I have put together so far that while they were drying the reel seat did not stay completely flush with the rear grip. I want to pick up a clamp that will help fix this, however so far I only have found clamps for full length grips. Thanks!
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Hi Guys I have always turned my grips on a mandrel and have glued the cork with PVA. I have never had a grip separate following the normal protocols for PVA and timber. I have then secured it using epoxy to the blank. I have set up my lathe to turn on the blank and obviously have to secure the rings with epoxy to the blank. I'd like to use it to secure the rings to each other as well but know
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I made about 1000 birch bark rings for handles from live trees. My question is how long do you have to let them dry before gluing them up? I also made about 1000 rings from down and dead trees and they are not as easy to work with as the green rings. (Tree huggers don't despair, the land is being cleared)
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I am still learning woodturning and am turning a birch bark grip on a Central machinery floor lathe(Harbor Freight). I am having trouble with the bark separating as I turn using a jaw chuck and spindle. I would use a mandrel but need to know how to secure the workpiece to the steel mandrel(MudHole) without the piece slipping. Any help? Thanks
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I think I have heard people here saying that titebond II is okay for cork grips? I have some and plan to use it today on some cork unless the consensus is that you really need to use the titebond III.
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Hey guys, I'm getting ready to glue a handle & reel seat to the blank tonight and I've got some of the RodDancer ultimate gel 15 minute 2 part epoxy. I wondered if you guys had any tips or tricks for getting equal amounts to mix since you can't exactly use a syringe with this type of stuff. Just eyeball it? I mixed up a test batch the other day just eyeballing it, and it seemed to set but aft
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I am good for at least a few dumb questions a year so here's one. I was turning cork on my pac bay machine all rings were glued and compressed together with cork clap, and noticed that the cork was wearing down on one side of the too of the handle faster than the other. Now further more the bottom of the handle was the opposite thinner on the right where the top right was thicker then top left. I
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I need to wax a mandrel before gluing up cork rings on it. I have beeswax. No Parrafin. Will the beeswax be OK?
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Since the take over of Merrick by MudHole, I am unable to obtain the Mooseskin EVA in the color of "Korkalon". I need one, 24" stick with a 3/8" i.d. for a clients rod that I'm in the process of building. I have been in touch with MudHole and they aren't able to find any on the Merrick inventory sheet. Would anyone have an extra piece that they'd be willing to sell? I'd also b
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When I glue cork rings together for a handle I glue both sides of each cork ring (except the top and bottom of cores) Just wondering if this is overkill. and would like to know how the rest of you do it?? Looking forward to your replies By the way I use wood glue.
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I had a bunch of long cork handles to glue and wanted to save time. I remembered a "how do they do it show" showing how the Sage Fly rod factory put together rods. I remember, that they had the blank vertical on a slowly spinning table, while they were gluing up cork rings to form the cork handles prior to shaping. So, I took one of my slow speed DC wrapper motors made from a sur
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I was looking at Cork4Us website and was looking at the price for rings with a center hole already drilled and without a center hole. The price isn't much different in the two so I wonder, Is it worth saving a few buck to get the undrilled rings and drill them yourself or just go with the predrilled rings?
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What exactly is Syncork? Being advertised on Thorne Brothers ice rods and I don't want to spend $112.99 to get a look at the grip. "Stealth options-available on all panfish, perch and walleye blanks Featuring a 5" Syncork contoured handle with a recess for your reel foot that is not only comfortable but also 30% lighter than cork. " Thanks, Buzz "Fishermen are born
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I've built a number of rods, so far the grip has always been solid from the reel seat to the butt cap. Now I have two new projects, both with Fuji split grips and seats, and . My question is; the butt grip has the end cap already permanently glued on. In my previous builds I was able to ream to size through the aft grip. Since the butt grip has the cap already permanently affixed; how are you guy
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Hello everybody, I remember reading about adding a poker chip inlay in a cork grip and I thought it would be a cool accent piece between 2 types of cork. I am turning my first cork grip and I had some questions. I searched the Forum but did not find specifics about the following. I will be gluing rings to a mandrel and turning on a mini lathe. Since the poker chips will not sand the same a
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Does anybody know of a better paste type of glue other then Rod Bond or Pro Paste for glueing together reel seats and handles together.
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Hi All, It's been many years since I've posted here. I've really gotten into speyfishing and have about 7 rods I'm about to build. I plan to glue individual cork rings directly onto the blank and wish to shape the rubberized butt cap without having a mandrel hole in it. Insights or comments on my following questions would be greatly appreciated. Questions: 1) Is Titebond III okay fo
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For those of ya'll that have a rod building business, how does one go about setting prices for their rods? Is there a basic formula? Is a number picked out of the air? I ask because I was in a bait and tackle shop the other day and all the rods where customs from local builders in the area. As I was looking at the rods and prices, I was shocked. A bent butt trolling rod for $135. I can't har
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I have used flex coat epoxy and seemed to be fine. Where I live we do not have anyone who carries rod building supplies, so I have to order everything. I am looking for an epoxy for gluing cork handles and reel seats that I can get locally. I tried some from the craft store and was not impressed, it is runny and takes a long time to cure. Hard not to get leaks somewhere. I have glued a couple han
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If you have a power wrapper and haven't tried it before, use your wrapper to glue up your next cork handle. Chuck your cork mandrel into your power wrapper. Place all of the cork rings on the mandrel. Mix up a batch of glue and in a few seconds, you will have all of the glue applied to the rings, the rings clamped tight and you will be on to the next job. I have been using this method fo
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I am in the process of building my first birch bark grip. I used a threaded rod for a mandrel. Glued up the bark circles with Elmer's Wood Glue. It's been sitting for a few days.and Now I cannot remove the grip from the mandrel. I just tried heating the mandrel with a tourch with no result. Any ideas what I might try. The glued and compressed circles make up 4 inches. HELP!! Should not have used
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I made a cork reamer by glueing sand paper on an old rod blank. Now I`m thinking of putting it in my power wrapper and using it to ream the holes out of my cork/eva grips. Has anyone ever successfully done this?
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i would like to buy a power wrapper and basically i have 3 choices 1. pacbay/ amtak 2. alps 3. cpw by anglersworkshop i want to know what the difference is between the pacbay/amtak and the anglers workshop CPW. which is better of the 3 choices.
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I am just about ready to start to turn up a few cork grips in the next few days so i have a few questions obviously.These will be practise runs for the first few.I have bought some cheap rings before i go all out with some better quality. I basically wanted to know what speed roughly to turn the cork at.I have a decent wood lathe so it has around 8 speeds i think. Does anyone use a surform
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A simple question: What type of glue is appropriate for glueing together cork sections and handle on blank? Epoxy, PU-Glue or wood glue for outdoor use?
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Hey Folks, what are you using to drill out a 1/2" thick cork ring that does not have a 1/4" hole in the center? I bought some cork rings that do not have the hole in them and I am wondering if there is one type of drill bit that is better than another. Usually I buy my rings with a 1/4 hole in the center, glue them up to the desired length, then onto a mandrel to shape in my lathe, then
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