All my handles get 3 thin coats of Permagloss, very hard and lasts a long time
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I think there may be some confusion over the advise of cleaning up an old cork grip versus a new one. Washing with soap is a method for cleaning up an old grip.
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I will have to say that I have done restorations on forty or 50 old bamboo hardware quality rods like this and 90 % of them are still in service including one Calcutta cane rod, over 100 years old. True, you may have to do work if the old glue is bad and it has become delaminated, but it can be done.
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I will have to say that I have done restorations on forty or 50 old bamboo hardware quality rods like this and 90 % of them are still in service including one Calcutta cane rod, over 100 years old. True, you may have to do work if the old glue is bad and it has become delaminated, but it can be done.
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Tom, I believe that is the technique he is trying to vision, our steams here in the driftless area consist of small brushy, very clear spring creeks. I am considering a salmon or steelhead blank rated for throwing 3/8 oz weight, that will convert to a 6 wt fly line and he will probably be using a 6 wt spey line on it.
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He intends to use it as a single handed rod and use the length to reach out across our small brushy steams in NE Iowa.
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I have been approached to build a 12-13 ft fly rod in a 5-7 wt., the customer is very specific in some of his wants. He wants the lightest rod possible with a conventional fly handle, he wants an 8 in grip and a 1 in. detachable fighting butt. Suggestions on the reel seat, blank and eyes would be helpful. Right now I am thinking about minima eyes in #12,#10 and finish with #5s. He wants to use it
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2 coats of CP over the decal will allow you to use permagloss over it with no problems with heat
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I'm not too sure of exactly what you are doing? I build my grips on a mandrel and finish with Permagloss, it does have to have a good 24 hrs. to dry before I glue the grips to the blank. I usually glue up my grips and reel seat at the same time. I use a paste epoxy and try not to get any on the outside of my set up. If any does, I clean up with denatured alcohol before it has a chance to dry. If
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I'm not too sure of exactly what you are doing? I build my grips on a mandrel and finish with Permagloss, it does have to have a good 24 hrs. to dry before I glue the grips to the blank. I usually glue up my grips and reel seat at the same time. I use a paste epoxy and try not to get any on the outside of my set up. If any does, I clean up with denatured alcohol before it has a chance to dry. If
Forum: rodboard

I'm not too sure of exactly what you are doing? I build my grips on a mandrel and finish with Permagloss, it does have to have a good 24 hrs. to dry before I glue the grips to the blank. I usually glue up my grips and reel seat at the same time. I use a paste epoxy and try not to get any on the outside of my set up. If any does, I clean up with denatured alcohol before it has a chance to dry. If
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Doug, In my experience using it on wood calls for a different technique than coating a rod blank. I use a brush and turn it on my dryer. Use caution in brushing too fast as bubbles can be a problem but they can be brushed out with gentle strokes. It takes at least 3 coats to get my desired look. I have used this method for literally dozens of wood grips that I have turned. It give a very tough fi
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Tom did you get the address I sent on my last post? I realize how busy you are and can't keep up with every posting. In case not it is as follows: Decorah Public Library, 202 Winnebago St., Decorah IA 52101, Attn. Lorraine Borowski-Head Librarian. Refer to Tom Murray, Driftless Chapter-Trout Unlimited. Thanks
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Thank you Tom, the address is: Decorah Public Library, 202 Winnebago St. Decorah IA 52101. The Head Librarian is Lorraine Borowski. Mark it in reference to the Driftless Chapter of Trout Unlimited
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Thank you Steve, that is the info I was seeking, I will pass this on to my Chapter. Thank you Tom I will put in an order. Boyd's book would be very appreciated, as I said we have access to al kinds of info on fly tying and local fishing but nothing on rod building.
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Trout Unlimited Driftless Chapter of Decorah IA has recently embarked on a joint partnership with the Decorah public library to put in a section on fishing in this area. We have a small budget to procure books and videos, we are doing quite well on the fishing part but we have nothing on rodbuilding, as one of few rodbuilders in this area I am requesting any help from fellow rodbuilders for assis
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Steve, if I were doing this one I would replace your #16 with a # 12 stick with the #10 or use a # 8 and go with the #6 the rest of the way. A 7 wt is not that heavy a rod and the 7 wt line will shoot well with this set up.
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Phil, I have fished both lakes years ago when I lived in Gainesville and I also spent 22 years fishing in Mississippi. What I built for this purpose was a 10 foot salmon/steelhead rod with conventional ceramic eyes and a long handle with an automatic fly reel loaded with 20 lb mono. Worked great in Mississippi for pulling big crappies out of the brush.
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PG was developed for fly rods, however I prefer to use Tru Oil. After stripping the old rod I wipe on 3-4 coats of Tru Oil then wrap and finish the wraps with PG or Lumigloss. I sometimes will wipe a final coat of Tru Oil on the entire rod after th PG is dried.
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I have several pics in the photo section
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You can buy rattan at any supplier of furniture cane replacements, a quick check on google should give you several. The last I bought was from an outfit in California but I have lost the address. One bunch of cane should last for quite a while.
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After your first coat is dried take a pair of finger nail clippers and nip off any protrusions then put on your 2nd coat.
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I often inlay various objects such as tie tacks into my wood grips and I use epoxy finish to build up or fill in back ground areas. When I am finished I sand the whole area down, this leaves the epoxy areas scratched and cloudy I finish my grips with several coats of Permaglos for a very hard and enduing finish but it clears up the scratched areas like magic.
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I've used it with no problems, however be sure you have the skin completely saturated with CP so it does not penetrate.
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Permagloss has quite a learning curve and is very unforgiving, that said I have used it for several years and actually prefer it for some applications. I keep mine in the refridgerator and do not open it till I;m ready to use it. I pour just the amount for use in a glass shot glass and immediately cap the bottle and return it to the refridgerator. It will set up in few hours and I repeat the next
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Get in touch with John at Anglers Roost on the list of sponsers he has what you want. You may not see it on his site but you can give him a call and he will fix you up.
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The last one I built was on an American Tackle Co. Matrix AMSP843 blank rated for 1/8-3/8 oz. I figured it would throw a 6 wt line and it turned out to throw a 4-7 wt lin very well depending on the amount of line yop have in the air and the distances you are casting at. However I bought 3 different blanks rated 1/8-3/8 oz before I found just the right one. This rod went to a friend of mine down i
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I've done as jim says using a B&M rod, but I stripped it of their cheap compnents and rebuilt it to suit myself.
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Tru-oil 3-4 light coats.
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Take a look at the blanks from Net Craft, they sell one of their Sportsman blanks that is 6 1/2 ft long and is rated 1/8-1/4 oz range that will fit your bill. I have built several rods using this blank, it's a good one.
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