Hey everybody, I got my blank and guides, wrap, and all the other stuff. I built the wrapper on the library page, but need a dryer. looking through old posts i found someone made a dryer with a rotisire motor, I have one left around, but have no idea how to make one with it. All ideas are welcome.

Take a look on the Photo Page (you have to register and log in separately) and look under Equipment and you will get tons of info

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

If you are going to make your own
Here check this out [www.rodbuilding.org]

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks, and is 2.4 rpm a good speed or too slow for a dryer?

I find that at lest 80 rpm some builders do faster - just to put the finish on works well And it helps to make your finish lines straighter

Then if you are getting Foot balls i stop the turner and let any extra drip off
Several thin coats works better then trying to load one coat on
Once it is all coated I wait about an hour then turn at a lot slower rate

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/28/2012 04:23AM by bill boettcher.

Thanks Bill, and I was just talking to my dad about this and (apparently) he just stood them up overnight in his garrage when he used to build them.

What type of finish did he use and how thin
Did he get sages or drips

Bill - willierods.com

I use a 6 to 7 RPM rotisserie motor and it works fine. When I first started building rod I turned them by hand.

Bill he doesn't remember what brand, but it was a average thickness, and him and his friends who worked on them turned them for about an hour before standing it up, he didnt get drips or sages often. Bruce, thanks just needed to make sure they would work.

Most epoxies today will still sag or run after turning for only one hour when standing the rod on end. If he was using a varnish or something similar to Permagloss or Lumiseal, then maybe it wouldn't sag or run. I would suggest that you read this article first: [www.rodbuilding.org]

I generally use an 18 rpm or a 36 rpm motor for application and drying. I like both of them. I apply my epoxy on the dryer so anything below 11 rpm's is too slow for me. You may have to try a slow one and a fast one to see which one you like best. The dryer motors are inexpensive and can be purchased from many of the vendors on the left.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

I use a motor from an old microwave oven which turns at 5 RPM. I use this for both application and drying and it works fine. I'm completely happy with the results.

I use the same setup on a home made dryer as Dale & also have no problems what so ever

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

If you have any interest, you might check out small 6 or 12 volt dc gear motors.

[www.sciplus.com]

For example there is a 12 volt motor at 7 rpm that makes an excellent drying motor.

Then, just pick up a plug in 12 volt low current power supply and you will be good to go.

[www.sciplus.com]

One of the nice things about these motors is the very robust construction of the gear train and the nice extended robust shaft on the motor. Also, the operation of the motor is virtually silent.

Build a stand for the motor, put a chuck on the shaft and you have your dryer.

Good luck
Roger

Here is an interesting dryer that runs on batteries with a 400 hour battery life and complete with chuck and stand - sells for $10.
Pretty good value I would think.

[www.nuwavetackle.com]

Roger

I went on amazon and got this disco ball motor: [www.amazon.com]

I built one out of an extra auger motor from a wood pellet stove.

Roger,

Could you tell me which power supply you would recommend to go with the 7rpm motor offered by sciplus? I'm electrically challenged :-) and am not sure which one would work best? Thanks