If you have the manufacturer's lure weight casting range, go with it. It should be a simple matter to hang some weight on the blank and see how things feel. In the meantime, have you run the CCS ERN measurement? You might also try the formula given in the URRS. ..............
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Find a thin walled piece of scrap rod blank about 4 to 4-1/2 inches long that matches the blank butt's taper reasonably well. Sleeve the cracked butt with that scrap piece and all should be well. ................
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Dan, Action is where the rod flexes initially. All rods are progressive in action, fast or slow, if you put enough load on them they'll all flex back along their entire length and into the butt area. .............
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Yes, about 4 dozen. .............
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Unless you have the personal experience to allow you to know what to look for in terms of action and power, your best bet is to rely upon the knowledge of those who are experienced in that specific type of fishing. Asking here is one good course of action. .................
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Berkley Trilene XL 6lb test. Berkley Fireline Braid 12lb test. .....................
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At one time they did. I really can't keep up with all the offerings these days. .............
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I would highly recommend that you read the article on the New Guide Concept in the online library here. The desired line path should dictate guide sizes and placement. And, you only need about 3 or maybe 4 guide sizes for the entire rod, not 7. You want to size the reel seat to fit your hand. A #20 is generally most comfortable for the average male adult, but if you prefer the 18 then go with
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Just make sure the hold downs are sufficiently spaced so that you have good support when the section is slid out to accommodate the rod length. You may have to use 3, depending on how far you need to go. ...........
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Older Renzetti beds will fit. Those made in the last 5 years or so will not (Andy changed the width back around 2003, I think). Here's another idea - set the end section so that there are 2 hold downs. Set them snug, but not tight. Then, slide that section out to the length needed to support the end of the rod. When done, slide it back the other way. Just like opening and closing a drawer.
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Clyde has a pretty neat set-up in the Ecowrapper. He'll have them at the Expo in February. Plenty of attachments too. ..............
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Heating epoxy can indeed cause cracking down the road. Although, finish that hasn't been heated will also check/crack at the edge of the guide foot. Finish will "even out" on its own. It does not need the application of heat to make it do it. ..................
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Here's the rub on that little experiment - you do perform it 6 times, once per day, for 6 days, with the exact same finish. Some of the batches will be highly flexible, but the occasional one will be brittle as all get out. Ralph can explain this if you run into him at the Expo. ..............
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There are several hotels listed on the official event website - Look under "lodging" for a list of a few very close to the Expo - walking distance. The Econolodge is nice, nothing fancy, but nice. It's about 3 blocks from the Showplace. ..............
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No, these are special edition CDs which focus on specific topics. The 2-9 CD you ordered will have all the individual issues, from volumes 2 through 9, on a single CD. That's almost 2000 pages of reading you can look forward to. ..............
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I do my best to make them an exceptional value for the price. SE#3 will feature about 75 to 100 pages of the best specialty rod building tools we've ever featured in RodMaker, along with a few new ones. .............
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Your answer is already on the FAQs page here. ..............
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It's an older post that I reposted this morning. ...............
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They possess about the same size opening as a #6 or #7 ceramic guide. ..............
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If there are any left after another week or so, yes. ................
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Parachute cord is actually a 2 part cord - there is an outer sheath over an interior cord. Frankly, I don't care for it as a handle material and greatly prefer regular nylon cord/twine for that purpose. If you choose to use the parachute cord, prepare to put a good amount of whatever you use for finish on/in it. ............
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As Billy mentioned above - guides don't like to flex. As the rod bends, the guide feet try to resist the thread binding and a crack or stretch mark at the edge of the guide foot is the result. You can minimize this a little bit by creating a very shallow taper on the ends of your guide feet. The less abrubt the rise there the less problem you'll have with the cracking issue. Grind or file to a v
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I have about 6 dozen of the SE#2 CDs left. That's it. ............... RodMaker Magazine Special Edition CD #2, will be delivered this coming Friday. It deals with building specific rod types including, but not limited to: Ultra-Light Rods Stand-Up Rods Two Handed Rods Musky Rods Great Lakes Trolling Rods No-Foregrip Rods Live Bait Rods Surf Rods River Bass Rods Spira
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I would take a hard look at the Pacific Bay Minima 4 guides. ..............
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Try here: There are several people listed in Ohio for rod repair. Hopefully one of them will be near her. ..................
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That's a recommended line weight and is perhaps the least important of any of the ratings you see listed for a blank. However, it's safe to say that the higher the line rating the more powerful the blank so you'll still wise to look at it. The number you want to pay attention to is the power number. Generally this will be the 3rd number in the model number. For instance, let's say you see a mo
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The problem is that the fly line number on the blanks isn't a part of any standard. You have no idea what distance those line weights are intended for. Thus there is no conversion that will prove to be entirely accurate. In other words, 2 different "4-weight" blanks may possess entirely different amounts of power. If you want, try making the line number your numerator and 16 your de
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Bigger = heavier in most cases. What you want to do is use the proper sized guides. There is no need to go larger or smaller. Bigger means extra weight which translates into slower response and recovery times and more air resistance which will slow your movement of the rod (but this is getting out there a bit - the main downside is really just the weight). ....................
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Check the Glossary here (black buttons along the top of the forum window) and you can find the explanation for these and other terms. ..............
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Jim Gamble has had good success. Do a search - I think he described his method a bit ago. Also put some photos on the photo page if I recall correctly. ............
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