I also eyeball them by looking down the blank to a well lit wall. I find it more effective to look down the top of the blank with the eyes facing downward.
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Edit- I was going to suggest Gudebrods pewter 9005 until I reread your post saying you tried it.
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Hi all! I have been looking through the picture area of handles in search of a good looking way to do a Tennesee handle to no avail. I much prefer the feel of a solid, warm piece of cork to a reel seat. I have fairly large hands and would rather my finger tips rest on the handle than on the palm of my hand. Plus I fish in cold weather often and tape and cork are much warmer than a metal reel s
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I built an SCV for myself earlier this year and learned NOT to do a test wrap on any part of the blank that will later be seen. It left a ghost impression of the wrap. It has been 8 months or so and it has nearly disappeared now, although I can still see it ever so slightly. I also had trouble with alcohol affecting the finish but fortunately it was in the handle area (I was removing the manufact
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For the red, I would just go with whatever red thread you used on the wraps with silver metallic on the base. Then the red again on top. For the base silver Gudebrods "Electra" silver thread will give a touch more color. For the brown, I wrapped a SCV blank with brown metallic and gold metallic as a base. And Gudebrod 541 on top. Both will be subtle but not too subtle to go unnoti
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Cobalt blue with copper trim bands. Candy red with "Electra" silver trim bands
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Here is the deal- I wrap the bottom layer. Then 2 coats of CP. Then 2 coats of finish. (No bubbles at this point). Top layer of thread. 2 coats of CP. 2 coats of finish. Then BAM bubbles. I cannot see the bubbles until the top layer of finish is applied, which then allows me to see through to the bottom layer. Then I can see ultra fine bubbles trapped between the layers of epoxy and in between
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I seem to be having problems with tiger wraps and air bubbles in what I am guessing is the CP coats on the top layer of thread. There are many very fine bubbles that make the wrap seem cloudy. I know it is not the epoxy. I had been using Flex Coat CP and recently switched to TM CP. The TM is much improved but bubbles still remain. I use a stiff brush to apply the CP. Any thoughts?
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I mix my epoxy in a small cup and transfer it to the bottom of a full soda can. I first warm the can in warm tap water for a few minutes, to a temperature that I approximate to be around 75-80'F. I then thoroughly dry the can and wipe the bottom well with alcohol. Beer cans should NOT be used for this. Seeing an upside down beer can will only cause you to want to upright it and drink it. In t
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Does anyone know of any method to tie off metallic thread without it breaking while pulling it through?
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Tom, To my knowledge it is CO2 that causes the air bubbles to break. I would think blowing on it with a coffee straw would be your best bet. I'm fairly certain the acetone would ignite.
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Thanks for the info! I am thinking of walleye skins more than anything. I was curious about color retention more than anything. I'll give it a try...
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Anyone ever try or know how to use a fish skin on a butt wrap? Or is it even possible? I'm guessing it would need to be painted to bring back some color.
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Thanks for the replies! The reel I have on it is a brand new Quantum Catalyst PTi 10 with 4lb. green Stren. For the most part I have been using 1/8 oz. jigs and small cranks. So lures causing the twist should not be the problem. The drag thing isn't an issue either. It really isn't the twisting of the line itself that is the problem, it is the constant wrapping of the line around the tip that
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When I put line on I start with 10-15 turns and see if it starts to curl and flip the spool as many times needed to keep it straight. It is definitely something with this rod. It may be a combination of things but the only thing different is that I used the #6 fly guide and #6 NGC tip. I have built many rods but always used regular or NGC single foot guides from butt to tip. I keep reading about
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I built a 6'3" SCIII ML recently that I am having trouble with line twisting. The guides are SIC NGC sizes 25,16,12,10,8 with a #6 micro and #6 tip. I am using a good quality 4lb. mono and change it frequently and have had no problems with this line before. I put the line on well and drag it behind the boat prior to fishing to remove any twists. The biggest problem I am having is after a
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Couple more questions... 1. What brands are available and where? SIC rings? 2. If using the NGC on a 6'6" ML spinning rod- What quantity and size guides would generally be used?
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Jinx! You owe me a coke!!!!
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White (neutral) to silver. Black (hot) to brass. Green (ground) to green (if applicable).
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I was under the impression that CO2 from breath or flame was what popped the bubbles in epoxy not the heat. Any truth to this?
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I have found a couple things that help me build rods that I'd like to share and receive any feedback if someone sees a problem with it before I experience said problem. 1. I use surgical scalpels for cutting thread. I find them to be much sharper than razor blades or exacto blades. #11 disposable blades work well for me. I get them off the internet. 2. I live in a cold climate and my wife a
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I just finished 2 SCV rods last week. I made a small 3/8" wrap for a color test with no finishes at all. When I removed it after a few minutes it left a ghost impression on the blank. Unfortunately it was not in a spot that was covered. Lesson learned. The other thing is that the factory finish does not seem as smooth as I would think it should be.
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I do not thin the CP... I typically only have 3" of the wrap when completed. With a spiral I will only have 1 rotation in that 3". Is it possible that isn't enough rotations and because the thread is nearly straight it becomes loose?
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I am working on a spinning rod that I am trying to make a spiral butt wrap on. I am having problems with the color preserver. When I apply the CP the now soaked threads seem to lose their tension and either move out of place or bubble up when dry. I tried to put a few drops of CP in a few places and allow to dry to adhere the thread to the blank but found the final finish results in uneven color.
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