I have used Gudebrod Light Green with a Gudebrod Silver Electra trim on St Croix Forest Green blanks and it looks pretty good.
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I have several SCV and SCIII's. The SCV's are remarkably more sensitive over the SCIII's.
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It does not hert to try Tell them it was a BIG > fish Actually fraud does "hert".
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I use the bottom of full soda or beer cans. I clean off the ink with alcohol or acetone. If it is warm in my house I'll use it at room temp, if cool I'll warm it in warm water. The warm can thins the epoxy and releases almost all of the bubbles, however a warm can also greatly speeds up the curing time.
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Thanks guys!
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Admittedly I am partial to St Croix blanks, perhaps a bias of living in WI and of course the quality. I am looking to build a 7'6"-8' UL-L fast action spinning rod for bluegills. I am thinking on a no more than 2 pc fast fly blank. The St Croix's I've seen aren't tripping my trigger, partially because of the green or red color. I have enough green blanks, not partial to red and I won't paint
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Big Bend here. Southern Waukesha co.
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Not my first rod, but I have a rod that I built around 1990 that has seen it's share of memories and fish. It is in dire need of being rebuilt but I can't bring myself to do it. One guide is loose and routinely needs to be put back in place. A mouse chewed up a bit of the handle. It almost ended up cut in half and placed in my brothers casket, as it was the rod he would use if I convinced him to
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Madeira "beetle green" is almost the same color as the blank.
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That's what I was wondering. Thanks!
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Thanks for the responses. I am curious to the advantage of using the same size choker and running guides. Is it that it gets the line under control at that point and then a straight shot? Or is it just a weight reduction?
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I built a light 7' spinning rod and ended up with 10 guides on it. Is this correct? Using a 1000 series reel I calculated the choker to be 40" from the reel face which left me with 34" to the tip. To fill in that area not placing any guides closer than 5", I put 7 size 4's in that space. I had 2 reduction guides prior to the choker. Just seems excessive and am curious if th
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Thanks for the answers! I was actually a little anxious to do this and just brushed a very thin coat on where the old guides had been. It worked out as well as I could have expected. Most are nearly invisible and with the couple that aren't I will try a second coat and call it good. I'm just glad I can turn them back into functional rods and still have them look good. I don't think it was an
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Never used this stuff before... A. What kind of solvent works? B. I'm just touching up the clear coat on a blank where some guides were relocated from. Will it work in just those areas as a touch up and be relatively unnoticeable or should I just do the whole blank? Thanks again!!
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Being uv reflective it may actually help catch fish as well.
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I just have to ask- What in the world are you guys doing with this stuff? Grip on a blank above the foregrip on heavy rods?
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Thanks for all the info! I filled the tunnels with CP early yesterday and put a coat of finish on late last night with no problem to show. One reason I always preferred to get epoxy in the tunnel was that I have had the finish crack right there before. The last few rods I did had several guides do this. They were all finished with Thread Master. I went back to Flex Coat with this batch.
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It is a light action rod and I have 8 more in the near future to build. I have had problems with the finish cracking right at the tunnel opening which I thought had something to do with too much CP and not enough epoxy to adhere things. So now I am pretty confused as to what to do and am becoming convinced that CP actually is the devil. It is water based CP. Is solvent based better? I have
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20, 16, 7 and micros. All single footers. Also when I said thin coats, I initially soaked the wraps with a heavy coat and then removed as much as I could.
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To actually fill the tunnels with CP?
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After paying close attention to packing guide wraps and making certain there were no gaps, I applied 3 thin but soaking coats of CP. Applied top coat and I now have a blotch at each tunnel opening. Short of not using CP or by using NCP thread, how do I never have this happen again???
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George Forster Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > After Sunday's Packers' loss to the Chiefs, the > town of Park Falls went into mourning. There will > be some production delays... Lol! That's great!! It is pretty glum around these parts this week.
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I've never done it, but wouldn't a black wood stain work? Minwax makes ebony stain that is virtually black.
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I don't recall a brand being mentioned but I would NOT recommend the label maker that Elaine gave to Tim Whatley.
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Thanks for the feedback!
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I've been building rods for nearly 30 years as needed for my dad and I. I only build 2-3 a year and it really stings to experiment and have issues. So I am looking for some advice beforehand. What is a good replacement for Gudebrod size A? Are "sewing store" threads (Sulky) ok to use? I seem to recall reading about silicone issues. Never had "fisheyes" and don't want 'e
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Thanks fellas!
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Any suggestions for thread colors on these? Haven't used/seen this color blank before and was actually expecting something different. So it looks like I'll be aquiring some new thread colors. Be nice if it would stop raining around here so I could see it in the sunlight!! Thank you!! Scott
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When you said- "an old half dime", didn't you mean a nickel? LOL I have done it a couple times on the butt end with FC and had some yellowing take place because of the thickness of the layer I put on. I am going to try it with TM next time as it seems a bit clearer. A strong solution of salt and vinegar will clean the coin up well.
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