This is a SCIII X-fast 6'9" rod that I built 5-ish years ago. I was threading new line on it this morning and found this splinter, I have no idea how long it's been there. It is right at the peak bending point about 14-16" down from the tip. I treat my rods like glass and wonder why this occurred? I firmly believe that a vast majority of rod breaks are user error, but I do wonder if thi
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With weight not really being a factor, I would paint it to wherever you wanted to and put a black wrap and a very light coat of finish underneath where you want your blue under wraps. You'll end up with 3 layers of thread on the first one or two guides.
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Am Tackle sent me the same email. It did rub me the wrong way and I will think twice before using their products in the future. The email definitely should have been worded in a much less accusatory way.
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Run over to St Croix and get some of their tip sections. I don't recall how much they are but it isn't much. It's worth the trip if you haven't been there either way. It's maybe an hour east of you just north of 70.
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After a Google search, it seems the CO2 is what makes the bubbles pop, either from a flame or breathe. A heat gun may work but it isn't producing CO2. I'll still stick with my breathe.
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I was told a long time ago from a rod builder who was also a chemist and knew how to make epoxy, that the CO2 in your breathe was what made bubbles in epoxy pop. I don't know if it actually true but it's always worked for me.
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SCV 7' ML 1 pc is my favorite one. SCIII 6'9" ML x-fast is a good one too. Anything from 1/16th-3/8oz jigs to small cranks. Love 'em!
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Couldn't the new one be sliced in half the long way either with a very fine toothed and thin bladed saw or a razor blade. Then glue and clamp the two halves in place? I've never done it but seems like a reasonable and easy fix.
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For drilling acrylic, you need to sharpen the bit differently than normal. Basically it needs to be a 60* angle and flatten the cutting edges so it is more like a scraper than a cutting edge. There are images on the net that show how. Works on almost all plastics.
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A phone book with weight on top for tension and have the three threads in 3 coffee mugs with the thread run thru the handle. Have the handles all pointed towards each other to get them as close together as possible. If you can't get the threads tight enough together to stay together, run the threads thru a loose small guide between the mugs and phone book. Have the threads run down the cente
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If you want just red, I'd use the cherry red and a silver metallic on the base and the cherry red/ sacrificial on top. I think the red/gray on bottom with red on top will darken the red quite a bit especially if you used gray on top as you mentioned. Try it on a piece of scrap to find out what it will really look like in the end. For testing I do the normal wrapping with 2 coats color preserv
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In the late 80's I had just built 2 Fenwick rods that were my best builds so far at that time. I was 18 or so. On a maiden trip with them I was fishing from a bridge in central WI for the spring walleye run. Within an hour I hooked a sturgeon and before I could react, it decided to swim as fast as it could downstream under the bridge. The rod touched the bridge and broke instantly. The other one
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Try blowing through a small straw to burst an air bubble. I put an epoxy finish on bar tops occasionally and their product claims that CO2 in your breathe bursts air bubbles. It works for me but so does a clean flame passed quickly over the air bubble, I do it quickly enough to not actually heat anything though.
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I know St Croix sells blanks but they sell them for the same price as you can buy them anywhere else. It's so they don't out compete their own sellers. I'm guessing others are the same. St Croix does have one advantage over Mudhole by being located right in the center of the universe for ruffed grouse hunting.
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Instead of thinning epoxy, wouldn't a person be better off with a urethane finish like permagloss on the first soaking? From my limited experience with it, it is significantly stronger than epoxy finish as well. A top coat of epoxy can be added over the top for a smoother finish. Thoughts?
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I know copper is used for trolling in the Great Lakes for salmon, similar to lead core. It adds weight to get the lure deeper depending on how much is let out. And the electric eel comment got a chuckle here as well!
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Sulky rayon is terrible for guide wraps if your using color preserver. Something happens with it when the finish dries that the thread softens and the guide will work loose in a short period of time. There have been times where I had to use a specific Sulky color and did a full under wrap of nylon with a couple coats of permagloss, then over wrapped with sulky. Not ideal but better than having th
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I fish primarily in Wisconsin for musky, walleye, bluegill, crappie, salmon and catfish. Typically- casting rods with large lures for musky, spin fishing/ trolling/ ice fishing for walleyes, jigging/ ice fishing for bluegills and crappie, spin fishing/ trolling for salmon and bottom fishing for catfish. What some of you may find amusing, is how I prefer to ice fish. It is known as "t
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > St.Croix makes many fine blanks here in the > U.S.A.. Perhaps I should have worded my post better. I know St Croix is made in the US, most are made about 5 miles from my grouse hunting spots. I was looking for a different brand, just not a brand made in China. Sorry for any confusion.
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I've only used Gudebrod and ProWrap and find Gudebrod easier to use.
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I have only used St Croix blanks (which I really like) but looking to expand my horizon and would like recommendations for a couple NON-Chinese made blanks. I need these rods to be 2pc. All of my current rods are 1pc so I am unfamiliar with the differences in actions and strength differences in 2pc vs 1pc. One I'm looking for would be for bluegills and crappies. Something in the 7 1/2- 8' ran
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Not sure how many wraps you're doing on the trim but I've had problems with trim wraps of 3 or less turns loosening up and falling off with Pro-Wrap metallics. I have much better luck with Gudebrod.
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Thanks fellas!
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I've always used Gudebrod thread and am starting to run out of what I have or had. I've used ProWrap but for 1 I'm not crazy about it being from China and 2 the metallics don't work well for me with trim wraps with less than 3 wraps. It seemed like Gudebrod somehow gripped itself better. Anyway I'm looking for any new suggestions for a new wrapping thread. I really liked the Gudebrod silv
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Thanks fellas!
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I build 6-10 rods/ year for myself and a few others, almost all light-med spinning rods. I stepped up from a phone book and coffee mug thread holder a few years ago to a homemade wrapper. I'm considering getting an electric wrapper but not sure what features that I'd like in one or even what is possible with one. Any help would be appreciated. I wouldn't mind a used one. Thanks! Scott
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I have problems with ProWrap metallics on trim wraps. Gudebrod is /was far superior. ProWrap seems to be too slick and doesn't grip itself like Gudebrod does.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Beyond the choker guide, out to the tiptop, you > can use any spacing you like. A progressive > spacing is fine. Do a standard static distribution > on that section to set them correctly. > > ..................... Would you still go with no more than 5" spacing for the runners? Or with
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If you are concerned about the strength, you could wrap the guides on with modern thread and use permagloss finish on those with no color preserver. Then go over that with the old thread and finish however you'd like. Being a musky rod the added weight wouldn't be noticeable.
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