Thanks, Russ. Phil...my asking was to know if the OP was fishing for a record Crappie or a record Sailfish...
Forum: rodboard

Sanford...how did you get the dimples?
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Gary, I'm sure someone will be along that will answer your question. Just give them a bit more time. I've made them on an ink jet with mailing decals (paper & clear) and decal material. I have also used Decal Connection for more than I've ever made myself. Someone should be along to give you a more detailed answer. Best of luck to you.
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So, Bryan...what fish will you be fishing for? Will 1# of drag be too much for line that "should" break below 2#? That's over 50% of the breaking strength.
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I use epoxy with no issues. The epoxy I use is Rod Bond. When using a paste epoxy it is easy to apply to the cork face and then take a razor blade, holding perpendicular to the cork face, and literally scrape off ALL of the epoxy. This leaves a super thin epoxy layer, and what is left on the cork is more than enough to make a perfect bond. This way you have no squeeze out. For non-e
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John, you are correct. I regularly use A on underwraps and overwraps with no finish in between...I have even triple wrapped with all A with no problems. But the OP asked the question, and we are beholden to give the best answers we can. Properly done, none of the above is necessary.
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LoL
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Are you using the same size thread for both wraps? If so, try using a size larger for the overwrap. Also, you can try running the overwrap in the opposite direction as the underwrap (ie. start at the guide ring and wrap towards the foot).
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No, they all don't have spares...but that conversation is for a different forum...
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I would lean to the GF700xl (Calstart Graphiter) and trim it from the butt to 6'6". Or maybe in the Seeker line a CLBF704 trimmed. Either way, I'd trim from the butt...maybe an inch from the tip, but the rest from the butt end. It is certainly doable...you just have to get away from the "tuna" blanks and think outside the box.
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Take a spinning rod with reel attached and hand it to him upside down...tell him to reel backwards. Then he'll be different...except for all those folks fishing on piers that already do the same thing...he'll fit right in with that crowd. You need new friends...
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I may be with Mr. Bill on this one! LoL
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I have donated, but I never "donate". I ALWAYS barter. If I can't barter a sponsorship, then I don't donate. Most times I barter a rod in return for a sponsorship for my other business. Most sponsorships I'm familiar with start at $500 on the lower tiers...usually a good exchange for me.
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Butt guide should be same as usual...trial, error, static testing.
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I have never calculated or charged any sort of hourly rate. I was more of a piece-work sort of guy...the less time spent on the job the better.
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I would also do a false under wrap.
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I have double wrapped A over A many times.
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On thin blanks I typically us a dremel with a cutoff wheel. On large blanks I use a fine tooth hacksaw.
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I agree that I would not use these on a rod of mine, but if a customer wants it... I actually know people who really love these types of guides. I don't really know if it's just the look they like, or if they're nostalgic over them...
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I seriously don't think you will encounter any hidden issues by cutting off the forward grip and reel seat. That is exactly what I would do...without hesitation.
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No graphite...all aluminum...either the seat or unibutt. For weight savings I typically use a nylon butt, aluminum seat, and Eva grip...aluminum gimbal.
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Personally, I'd cut the forward grip off and replace it with EVA.
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You are familiar with using knife/butterfly jigs? It is a style unto its own.
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You can drag race an AMC Gremlin too. It's the way jigging rods are designed...I'm assuming for optimal performance.
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The long butt is needed for the jigging, not the fighting...
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Nice choice for the seat. My wife's sister's wood floors in her home are purple heart...wall to wall...
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Very few trolling rods are built with swivel tips.
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And don't forget that you should only need to rotate them for 2-3 hours for them to reach a no sagging point. They don't need to rotate the entire time.
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Having never handled a rod with either concept, I would think one could be build just as sensitive as the other.
Forum: rodboard