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Nanolite Ring A Proprietary Zirconium blend of material provides the ultimate in hardness & durability. The strength of our Nanolite ring allows elimination of materials which results in reduced weight without sacrificing strength. Hardness and low coefficient of friction means these rings will easily handle all of today's modern braids and super lines. DuraLite A New and Improved, propr
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LoL
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Just vomit on the blank...should be pretty flipping close...
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WooHoo! The 25 turbo. That thing is like a skyscraper. LoL
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Mr. Bill, One thing to keep in mind is line clearance on the front of the grip. Be sure to FULLY flex the blank with the highest drag setting you think the rod will ever see.
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I wonder how many folks who are shaking their heads (and fingers) at the casting microwaves have actually tested them... As far as testing goes...I wonder if they would have any advantage in a simple spiral setup?
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Claus Bech-Petersen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > An iPad version of rodmaker Magazine. The shipping > costs make it too expensive in Europe. That's an excellent idea (which probably has been discussed before...I don't know).
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The only rods I know of that say "Contender" and/or "Contender Ranger" are from Shakespeare.
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And for the same reasons Tom stated, releasing of air has nothing to do with curing time either.
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The laser is a great idea, but would be difficult to implement...maybe. Unless you have a way to throw it between the rings (not sure how that would help in alignment anyway) you would have to line up the guides by spotting the guide foot. This could theoretically be done by lining the guides starting from the tip and working toward the seat, but there are potential issues there as well. 1
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Like Marc...I also like the heavy single foot guides. I was looking forward to doing some spirals with these...didn't even know they had gone off the market.
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It's all good, Mr. Bill. I know what you mean. We have a house closing this Friday...was supposed to be May 22...then June 20...then today...now June 28. That's two days before the end of the month...AND the weekend before Independence Day. They are playing havoc with our schedule to get us moved out of the rental before July 1. We've been round & round with the builder...finally came
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LoL, Don! A smooth butt is a hard plastic butt typically used on trolling/standup rods. They make it easy to get the rod out of a rod holder with a fish pulling on the other end. They do exactly what an aluminum unibutt does, but in a more economical package. I only use slick plastic butts on my personal saltwater standup rods. As to the difference between the two companies listed.
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Bill... I am only guessing here... But Bob's "Take it easy Bill" was only a valediction (a friendly send off at the end of a message...opposite of "salutation"). So seriously...take it easy. LoL
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I won't bet you to then, Randy. LoL It's good we don't all use the same products...that way we can keep all the manufacturers in business. It's a win-win.
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Since the OP asked what to use for "a" 50# tip I'll assume he's not trying to install 10 at a time. I only use 5 minute epoxy for any and all tips...from ultra-light to Unlimited class tackle (and I've built a heck of alot more 30# and up gear than I have ultra-lights).
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I wouldn't stress too much. Do some searching to find a blank that matches, or comes close, to the feel you liked in that rod. Then build it with a Tennessee handle if that's the style you like. No problem.
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Randolph Ruwe Wrote: > > Lou, I have never experienced what you describe > with epoxy finishes, and have never heard of > anyone else experiencing it either. Epoxy allergies are very common in the boat building community. I know some great custom Carolina boat builders who can no longer even step foot in a boat house. You can certainly develop the allergy over time if it h
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All American Roller Guides...@#$%& rollers. You can find them on the Mud Hole website. Good products.
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You could learn to do it yourself and never use a spacing chart again...your satisfaction level will increase as well...
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"The spiral thing is used mostly on trolling rods" Forest, some of the guys here are about to let you know just how wrong that statement is...
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While there are numerous ways...I would say that the simple spiral is the way to go.
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I do very similar to Joe. I hold the decal by the edges and just lay it down straight. Then just use my burnishing tool to set the center line, and burnish to the outer sides.
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How about instead of using a 7/16" (0.4375") bit for the handle you source a 11.2mm bit (0.4409")...it may still be tight enough. Worth a shot for a few dollars.
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The little hand wrapper made by Fuji looks like a nice portable unit.
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Since you're using threaded rod put double nuts on one end so you have a jam nut. Put a wrench on the stationary nut and a strap wrench on your handle. Turn.
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Thanks, Doug...and everyone else.
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My old table was stand-up height. I could stand and work or sit in my chair and work....my chair wasn't a standard office chair...it was a higher drafter's chair.
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Randolph Ruwe Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Once PG starts to gel and set, there is nothing to > do but throw it away. True statement...but there are ways to stop the process so you don't have to throw it away.
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