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Results 151 - 180 of 1497
7 years ago
Jay Lancaster
Good luck to you, for sure.
As a suggestion...if you decide to try another epoxy manufacturer, order the smallest quantity. If it works for you, great...they make more. If you don't like it, the investment is small.
Epoxies are different. There are builders who could use any & all of them without a hitch, and then some just need to find one that fits their style and/or environment.
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Jay Lancaster
152. Fuji LB Single Foot
I think it was called LB. Did Fuji stop making these? They were a heavy framed single foot that I believe was rated to 30#.
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Jay Lancaster
Bob is the lump centrally located on the wrap, or is it close to the end of the wrap? Is it a football/teardrop lump, or is it a quick peak like a pyramid?
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Jay Lancaster
155. Re: install eva grip
Sure, he can ream it. Buts also having issues getting g a .5"I'd Eva grip over a .51"od blank. I was just trying to point out the obvious...lubrication.
But what works for you works best. Different methods to reach the same end. That's never a bad thing for the masses.
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Jay Lancaster
156. Re: install eva grip
I think the key here is as Tom & I stated. Use something to get epoxy inside the grip. A wooden dowel or even the tip section of your rod will work. Just liberally coat the piece as I stated, slide the grip over it, and swirl it around inside the hole. Then it "should" slide much easier on your butt section.
Best of luck to you.
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Jay Lancaster
157. Re: install eva grip
I don't ream eva. Size the ID so it's as close as you can find...it'll stretch.
Slide it on the blank to see where it stops. Remove the grip, and then go several inches ABOVE that spot & liberally apply your epoxy. You will slide the grip down over the epoxy and spin it around. You are wanting to coat the inside of the grip. The epoxy will act as a lubricant, and you'll be able to sli
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Jay Lancaster
Matthew Paul his leader may never go through the guides, but his backing may. Don't forget the junction/knot from the fly line to the backing.
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Jay Lancaster
159. Re: Spray paint
Why would you epoxy an entire blank? As stated, wrong product for the job.
Maybe I just don't pay attention...but I've never seen a rod blank fully coated in epoxy. I've heard of it, but I've never seen it.
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Jay Lancaster
160. Re: Spray paint
Why would you epoxy an entire blank? As stated, wrong product for the job.
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Jay Lancaster
161. Re: Rod Finish
Make sure your ambient air temperature is warm enough. Cold epoxy is thick epoxy. I've read where some guys even keep small epoxy bottles in their pockets a little while before mixing. I've also read where some folk will QUICKLY microwave one or both parts A&B before mixing...careful with this as you don't want it hot...or even warm. The other thing is, are you using a high-build epoxy?
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Jay Lancaster
162. Re: Epoxy
My recommendation for keeping the wife happy. Put a sheet of foil (Reynolds wrap) on the table the length of your rod. Any epoxy spills/drips will be of no worry.
I do all of my epoxy work inside the house. My dryer is set up in a small utility room where I can close the door and turn on a small space heater. No worries about cool temperatures.
Forum: rodboard 7 years ago
Jay Lancaster
When did you apply the epoxy...how long has it been?
Where has it been in the meantime? In the basement? In a temperature regulated part of the house?
Did you save the pot you mixed the epoxy in? If so, how does it look? PS...always save the pot.
Forum: rodboard 9 years ago
Jay Lancaster
Like Tom, I prefer downlocking with no foregrip. Trim the threads and it's a great spinning setup.
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
Fred, in your example the line will most certainly not be rubbing on your hand.
.
It'll be rubbing the foregrip...THROUGH your hand!
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
166. Re: cork veneer
Not knowing what product you're looking for, I'll suggest Lowe's or Home Depot. Cork floor tiles are fairly common.
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
167. Re: Under Wraps
Here is an example of a false underwrap...the look w/o the bulk.
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
You can do thin coats with high build...just don't put as much on.
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
Your drill is most likely fine as long as you're able to hold the mandrel steady. To speed things up try using a Stanley SureForm to quickly get close to your desired shape. Nothing slow about the SureForm when it comes to turning cork!
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
The best finish, to me, is the one you know how to use. Each one has their own idiosyncrasies.
The one you are familiar with is the one that works for you not because that's a lousy reason, but rather because it IS familiar to you.
Is one better than another? I'll leave that for the peanut gallery to debate. I know which one I use, but I use it because I know how to use it...not beca
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
I've never seen guides listed by the box (not that I've looked for them that way). But if I were in the market, I'd pick up the phone and ask.
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
Have you tried speaking with any of the sponsors to the left?
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
Sounds like you are gearing up for a challenge, Bryan!
Just wanted to repeat that at 1/2 spool your drag has doubled (up to 2# now)...3/4 spool and it doubles again (4# at that point).
Best of luck in your ventures.
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
This survey is based on conjecture...at best. It is a great conversation, but not much else.
Every builder and every application can be so different. So many specialize in a particular aspect of the industry that the numbers from each will usually be scewed in a particular direction.
Still...it's fun to know what others use most of.
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
175. Re: Syringes
Same as Jim & Col. Mine are stored in the caps right on the bottles. I never clean them.
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
As John stated, I would shoot for a reel that is capable opperating with .5# of drag (or less). Lots of line capacity and let the fish exhaust itself.
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
177. Re: Kigan guides
I think you can say all modern ceramic guides will withstand braided line, but you certainly can't say "all guides" and lump every one of them into that category.
As to the OP...I'm confident that Kigan guides can handle braid since they are ceramic.
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
That was my point when I mentioned the drag as well, Ted. Initial drag set to 50% of the breaking strength of the line leaves VERY little room for error...especially considering the line should actually break BELOW 2# for IGFA elligibility. Couple that with a fish that's going to take 3/4 the spool and then you have to figure in the drag increase from spool diameter...plus the increased fricti
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
179. Re: Butt cap coin
I agree that Bill's Google search turned up many coins with trout on them.
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Jay Lancaster
Sanford...are you talking about the finish on the rod blank itself or are you talking about the Threadmaster on your guide wraps? Or are you coating the entire blank with Threadmaster?
Sorry for the questions, just trying to fully understand your situation instead of assuming. Thanks.
Forum: rodboard |