That's what they did, Mr. Ellis. When the fish were thick it was simply a matter of pulling one in, taking the fish of, setting it back out, grab another of the 6 rods you are responsible for and repeat. This exercise could go on for hours pretty much non-stop.
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Yep, will work fine.
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Yep...confusion. Degloss...that's what I said...that what Tom said...that's really what you're doing by scouring with an abrasive cleaner. (if what I stated came across any other way, it shouldn't have) This post is like a tennis match...I'm just the ball boy running across the court.............
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I have an AmTac 6' 20-50# live bait blank that I haven't built as yet. A 6.5' version is available and sounds right for what your friend wants. The blank I have is classic "live bait"...soft tip, but rated for 50# it shuts off fast and has a very strong butt. Seeker and Calstar would be on my list as well. The American Tackle blank is in the ATX series and listed as B66MH. This b
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Ha! So I was right! All without reading an article. LoL I use a Scotchbrite...all is well.
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Ellis Mendiola Wrote: In our part of the state we use long rods like those in rod holders in the bow of our boats and slowly troll with the baits fanned out or if we find a likely spot we just dabble the bait in that area. No casting is really needed. My grandparents used to stay down on the St. John's River for months during the winter. They fished the blackwater for Crappie a
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"To Me..." The argument of Old Dutch Cleanser, Comet, or a Scotchbrite doesn't make much sense. On one hand you have the "water break free" group saying the Scotchbrite is the way to go for deglossing the finish. On the other hand you have the "get it clean" group saying Comet (or Old Dutch) is all you need to thoroughly clean the surface and that cleanlines
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If its good enough for billy... I never had a sag because of a heated drying room. It is always good to check to be sure everything is going well, though. Take it with you and have fun.
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I also glue on my tip before wrapping the guides.
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Do you have a space heater? If so, set it up in a small room...like a bathroom. Let your rod cure in that room with the heat on high. It will be set, but I wouldn't use it tomorrow.
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I actually have a rolling task chair...like an office chair, but goes up beyond my standing height. To use it I will have to put down a plastic mat so it will roll. I currently have a fan blowing air into ther from the larger FROG room and have a smaller fan about halfway the room gently blowing toward the far wall. I think that should work for now. Thanks for the thought and concern.
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Ok, working on my room a little. I got flooring down a couple of days ago. I used the snap-together rubber flooring with a tread pattern. So far it feels nice to stand on. I also have 3 large foam/rubber mats that I can use to stand on as well. My bad back needs all the help it can get. The tables are only 11.25" deep...I was impatient. I wanted 12" table material, but couldn
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In other words...if the thread slipped UNDER the epoxy, then there is no easy fix.
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As stated, I'd apply a properly measured/mixed coat over the top and call it finished. Now...on to the more important part of this question...how to solve this so it doesn't happen to you again. Lee, could you quickly explain how you measure and how you mix the resin and hardener? Maybe that will allow comments on how to help you with the big picture. A single rod is easy to fix...the nex
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That sure was a lot of wasted energy on your part. No one was saying you were wrong or anything similar. I simply stated (in 4 words) the computerized page number. The point was to assist others in searching for the correct product using the online catalogue with the link you provided. It is ok though. Everyone can reference page 206 and search for it like I did. You certainly are
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Yep...page 206...best of luck to everyone.
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I can't really offer help on the Stuart guides. I have always used AFTCO...and for chair rods I'd go with big foot or the wind-on guides.
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One thing to keep in mind is that a fishing rod isn't necessarily something you outgrow. Unless you build it too short, this kid will be able to use a proper rod throughout his adult life. I think the biggest issue here is rod length. A good compromise now will give him a fishing rod that literally could last a lifetime. Make it short enough for him to enjoy immediately, but long enough tha
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Thanks for the replies so far. Dennis, I feel for you. We're sort of in the same boat...pinched nerve, herniated disk, sciatic, leaking CSF...and I'm not even 40. S uck s big time... Anyway, today I should be getting down the flooring. I'm going to give the "click together" rubber flooring a try. I purchased 75sqft yesterday. I figured the softer floor might be better for th
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They'll fit the corresponding butts...they are made for the task. I'd go with the RT blanks as well for the application you're building for.
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Def. will need all the length you can get...no shorty blanks. Although an offset stantion brings you further back...if they have one.
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As with many questions...not enough information. My most pressing question is, "what kind of boat?" Moving on, I personally would not want a Boomer series for a chair rod. The length is fine, but the butt would have to be cut...and that will shorten the rod...not necessarily what you want on a chair rod. The other thing is the fast action of the Boomers...they are stand up rods
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Ok...seriously thinking about starting to finish out my work room. Some of you may remember I asked a couple months back about bench depth as my room is long (20+' long), but extremely narrow (3'3" wall-to-wall). I'm pretty sure I'm going to mount 12" deep boards on L-brackets to gain as much space as I am able. Hopefully my PacBay wrapper will mount on it fine...I'll have to wait
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On "my" rods... I would go no foregrip, tighten the seat down on the intended reel, trim the threads off flush, and then paint everything BUT the threads. But that's just "me". LoL
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What a person finds that works well for them is, well, what works for them. I break most of the "rules" laid out in this thread...with no adverse affects. Works for me...and that is what matters to "me". LoL And yes...I use cheap (as cheap as I can find) brushes...I paint the finish on...I press the brush down on the wrap...I don't give a rip what anyone else thinks ab
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If you're getting micro bubbles, Tom is most likely right...the torch is VERY suspect. I've not put a torch to epoxy in years, but I'd guess it "boils" in a half second or less. Seriously. Anything more than a quick pass and you're forming micro bubbles within the epoxy. They never go away. So my question is this...why are you torching? If you are trying to fix issues in the
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Now aren't you glad I asked?
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I like it...thanks guys.
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What are you guys reeling onto the rod that requires #10s? Knots...swivels?
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Bill, you typically don't troll for drum.
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