Newbie to the craft and just started shaping some cork handles. Am looking for tips on how to best shape the handles - currently using a cordless drill with a mandrel. Process is slow - possibly need a high speed drill or different sand paper. Any ideas? Before I invested in a high speed corded drill thought I would ask the folks here for ideas on how they shape handles (tools and sandpaper).

Thanks in advance.

Lyle

Every type of rotary device is used, from cordless drills to wood lathes, and evrything in between. I find the best for me is a "Midi-Lathe". It allows me to shape cork, wood and other materials.

Lyle,
Go to a pawn shop.
You can normally get a decent drill at most pawn shops for about $5.

Try to find one that spins up to 2500 or 3000 rpm.

When I shape cork, I like to spin the grip at 3,000 - 4,000 rpm on the lathe.

Be safe

Yes, all manner of tools that spin are used for cork shaping. If you do a search on lathes, you will find all the different types that we use for this task. There are drill powered lathes that are simple and relatively inexpensive all the way up to full powered lathes used to turn wood. There are examples of builders using drill presses for cork shaping as well.

When just using a drill, the difficult part will be to achieve a round cylinder. I use different size mandrels that are slightly smaller than the OD of the blank to minimize reaming and there is always slight variation on the rings and where they line up on the mandrel. It's important to use a cutting tool on a tool rest to round the cylinder with respect to the mandrel. For cutting tools, I use an oval skew chisel, but have successfully used a stanley surform tool or a wood rasp. After that step, I start with 60 or 80 grit to shape, the work up 400 grit as my final pass for smoothing. (80, 100, 150, 220, 320, 400)

Good luck and have fun!

Terry

I've found that there are few factors that will determine the quality of turned grips.

1. Stiffness of the mandrel - steel mandrel is better than a flexible blank.
2. Speed of the tool - all other factors being equal, faster spindle speeds will require less skill from the operator to achieve better results than slower spindle speeds.
3. Heft of the tool - the heavier or sturdier the tool is the better. Heavier tools support the mandrel better than light tools. Heavier tools more easily overcome inbalances in grips which means you can turn the unbalanced grip faster, which translates into better turnings. Generally speaking from best to worst: lathes, drill presses, better rod lathes/wrappers (supported on both ends), cheaper rod lathes/wrappers (supported on both ends), corded high-speed hand drills (supported on both ends), and unsupported corded and cordless hand drills.

All three factors are best fulfilled with a small to midi size variable speed lathe with grips mounted on a steel mandrel and the mandrel turned between centers (with a dog) or with a chuck and center. Of course this is also the most expensive solution. You have to weigh the quality of the grips you desire vs price; keep in mind that turning foam will require better equipment than turning cork. (The softer the material the better the equipment you need to achieve the same results).

I used a drill that I locked into my bench vise for a couple of dozen rods when I started out. I didn't have any rollers to support the end of the rod, so I hung a string from the rafter in the garage, fed it through a soft cotton sock and laid the rod blank in the u-shape formed when the sock was folded over. Once in a while I would have to adjust the height of the sock by raising or lowering the string until the blank turned true. Now-a-days we all have it too easy. do a little innovating!!

Thanks to all of you for your input. I do truly appreciate it.

Happy Holidays

Lyle

One very competent tool for this is a drill press with a cobbled lower support. I use a mandrel of 5/16 threaded stock, with a 5/16 bore ball bearing sunk into a small piece of wood to provide support at the lower end. Clamp that wood to the base of the drill press and you have the rigidity needed. You can use any diameter you want, but 5/16 or 3/8 are probably the best. When you get done with a butt knob it will have a hole in the end, use a decorative "coin," an auto interior trim fastener, or just matching cork grindings collected when you were turning the cork mixed with epoxy to fill the hole. Will be next to unnoticeable. I use coarse sandpaper to start and go down on grit (up on number) as I go. If you have something between the rings that is significantly different in hardness from the cork you have to be very careful to keep the form you want because the cork will machine faster than the insert. Mounting the sandpaper on a sanding block helps, but it still takes attention.

Another motor source is a "buffer motor"

[www.northerntool.com]

These motors have threaded shafts on the end.

Simply remove the nut, and screw on a 1/2 inch drill chuck.

You can then chuck in a dowel or similar or mandrel and use the motor to spin the work at 3450 rpm.

To complete the deal, just obtain a rod rest.

You can make a rod rest using some aluminum bar stock and inexpensive skate board bearings as shown in the following picture

[www.rodbuilding.org]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/17/2013 01:08PM by roger wilson.

Check out the Photo Page
There are a lot of Home Made lathes
I use a 20.00 drill cheap yes So fare it has not crapped out High RPM and shappes cork and wood ( if I am carefull )

Bill - willierods.com

I agree with all the above, But as a beginner- the most important thing is to take your time and remember the old adage "Measure twice, cut once. I purposely take a slow methodical approach to working with Cork, especially when opening the diameter to the rod blank. I want as much contact as I can, once the rough out is done, I have several hunks of rod blank I use with sandpaper I have always had good results. as far as turning the outside, I use the graduated method as described above. but nothing heavier than 100 grit. My 2 cents worth...good luck, you'll find your way and the one that works best for you!

Your drill is most likely fine as long as you're able to hold the mandrel steady. To speed things up try using a Stanley SureForm to quickly get close to your desired shape. Nothing slow about the SureForm when it comes to turning cork!