Why not epoxy in the house? Seems it would stay cleaner that way. Anyway...just store your epoxy in the house, and mix it in the house. Have the rod set up and ready to go. The stuff isn't going to flash off in five minutes or anything. Chances are, you are worrying about a non-issue.
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Alright, John. How did it end?
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Darrel, are you using FC light or high build?
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I'm sure a situation exists, but I've never encountered a time where I had to ream EVA. That stuff will stretch much more than you give it credit for. Use plenty of epoxy as lubricant, follow proper procedures, and shove that thing down in place...it'll go.
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You will have ZERO fun fishing from a UB6 unibutt. They are WAY too long for that. The reel will be up by your chin! OPINION ALERT!!! ...What you need is a shorter sleave butt section with separate gimbal and reel seat. For heavy stand-up I recommend an 8" plastic butt. This gets the reel down low so you can take advantage of your harness. I hope you're using a good bucket harne
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I'd cut it. If you don't it's going to be quite long. I'm assuming you are fighting from a chair or from the rod holder.
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An important step that you may have not thought about is measuring and making each guide identical/symetrical.
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You have the blank and but in hand? The GG is advertised to have a button OD that should fit in a UB6 ferrule. But that's certainly not the end all/be all. I probably would not sand the butt...unless you are just wanting an 8' rod. I'd prefer trimming it to length.
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My first question would be, "How are they measuring the two parts?"
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Photo forum at the top of the page where it says "Photos". You have to create an account, but you can use the same username & password as this board to make it easy.
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Imma guess and say you need a thicker viscosity finish.
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Unless you're underwrapping with Aramid thread......
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My .02 Stick with the guides in the kit. Some builders' first rods turn out like they have been doing it for 10 years. Most, though, lack in certain areas...with guide wrapping & epoxy being the popular categories. I'm going to guess that in a year or two you're going to want to re-wrap the rod anyway. You can update guides then if you choose. The guides that ship with the kit are
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If the rod is not level, the epoxy will gather at one end. If you are having highs & lows, then it's just a product of your open wrap. Leave it as is, or continue to apply coats until it levels up.
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I've used Prokote for two rods now, one I just finished up 2 days ago, and have had no issues. So far I have not seen any reason to apply heat. I've had no bubble trouble...even though I whip in millions of micro bubbles when mixing. They release beautifully...just like they always have with my traditional go-to epoxy that starts with aft & ends in co. I can't help with any reason as
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Grizzly hobby lathe. There are other options, but the Grizz was inexpensive, easy, and more than adequate.
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I've never used the guide adhesive...so that's great information, Jim. Good to know they are adjustable after the fact...as I'm not one of those guys who is talented enough to stick 'em in the correct position on the first shot!
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I doubt with today's epoxy that you're going to get any chafe through. Back when sportfishing started, and for decades after, yes I would agree. I'm sure it can happen...I just don't know what a person has to do to make it happen...normal fishing wear notwithstanding.
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Let's face it...nylon thread, of any size, is strong enough to hold on your guides. I suspect that a single layer of size A would hold your guides on...D thread would take a car to pull them off, but you'd have to anchor the rod to something as you wouldn't be able to hold on to it. You're talking about hundreds of pounds of force with just a single layer of thread. Double wraps are likely hig
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I personally think A is fine for the underwrap. Face it...if you wear through A, your gonna wear through D. However, D will wrap much faster (if seconds matter). I wouldn't object to using A for the double overwraps...or A with D on top. But that's just me.
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I'm like Spencer. I use the bumper guide, but not a true simple spiral. I'd say you can take away 1-2 guides on the average rod if you modify it.
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You don't dye the thrwad. They are all individual colors/different threads.
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From the pictures I see from Google... It looks like the butt guide is close to a 45 offset. Then there is a 90...followed by a 135 leading to the 180s. Maybe we can name this one the Loomis method. @#$%& they all seem to have names. Change the angles by a degree and you can name a spiral after yourself. LoL
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Ehh My favorite trout/red rod is a simple spiral...and it casts a country mile.
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It's convenient being "jus cross da river" isn't it? LoL
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The image link didn't work...
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Larry, this link takes you to an example on the photo board here. The pink "trim bands" are rather wide on this particular rod...it was a big offshore trolling rod so nothing was small about it. Keep in mind that you should be able to set the secondary thread in place with just 3-4 wraps...making a much smaller trim band. I just held the second color in my hand as I wrapped.
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In case anyone missed it, it sounds as though Ken is giving this rod away to a friend. I doubt he wants two rods (although that would be ideal). The sailfish in Florida aren't typically the largest...so a 12wt. would most likely pass muster. I personally would just stick with a 9', 12wt and enjoy the smile my friend had on his face when handing it over. MHX makes a 4-piece 12wt. I'm su
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The times I have done this I have also wrapped a few turns of the primary color as trim bands...while using those initial wraps to lock the second thread in place. This can be as few as 3-4 turns of the primary thread. Then you just tuck it in on the other end as you do the trim band turns there. This is simple and negates the need for two pull loops.
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The guys talking about casting are doing so in relation to the Tarpon. Yes, you'll be casting alot. A more conventional rod is warranted in that situation. I agree that a 9', 12wt would probably fit the bill. As to the shorter rod recommendation...I think that was probably directed toward the billfish side of the equation. You will not be casting all day for these fish...likely, you'll be
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