Mark, Thanks for the specifics. Roger
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Mark, That was the information that I was looking for. I suspected that one needed a special roller guide to work correctly upside down for a spiral wrap rod. Thanks again. Roger
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Has any one used a spiral wrap on a heavy action salt water - roller tipped rod? If so, what are the results? Take care Roger
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A new requirement for a Halibet Salt Water rod blank. The client expects to be catching an average size Halibut of about 50 lbs. He will be running a two speed reel - salt water heavy duty - spooled with 100 lb line. He is asking for roller tips and first roller. Any thoughts on specific blanks or roller guides for such a rod? Thanks much Roger
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Ken, It is an easy matter to turn handles that are already on rods. However, the key thing that you need is to properly support the rod. I suspect that the best thing to do is to remove the tail stock entirely, and then build or buy a series of ball bearing rod supports. I make mine out of aluminum and skate board ball bearings. Very high quality bearings at an inexpensive price. I
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I think that a popping rod is one of the most universal rods out there - for any type live bait application. The butt section is plenty heavy to handle a hook set, but the tip is nice and light to prevent tearing off the bait. This type rod is one of my favorites for building live bait rods for walleye and freshwather fishing. Take care Roger
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I agree with the last posting. In the first spiral rods that I built; I had the same problem as you are having. i.e. the line piling to one side of the rod. So, I did a bunch of test casting with the next rod; with several different reels. I found that to have a consisten centering of the line on the spools - with light and heavy tension; I needed to offset the first guide about 5 degrees i
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I agree with the posts above. I also apply at 200 rpm and dry at 6 rpm. Quick on the application - nice smooth edges, and then a nice slow dry so that everything will even nicely. Take care Roger
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Tolan, I typically balance the blank, during the build process. Through a bunch of trial and error - I have a good feeling for the balance point required of a given rod style / type - when the blank is bare. i.e experience will teach you how much weight you need to add to the bare blank at a particular point - before adding any other hardware - i..e handle, reel seat, guides or finish. Th
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Most manufacturers rate their casting and spinning rods a bit differently. i.e. lets say that you have a certain manufacturers 6 foot medium action casting rod. Then, you get the same manufacturers 6 foot medium action spinning rod. Generally -- but only generally speaking - the casting rod will be a bit stiffer all the way through the blank, and generally have a bit more power than the
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Jason, If you are off a little with respect to the spine, and haven't yet wrapped the guides. don't worry about it. However, if you are off with respect to the guides - then it is likely you need to fix something. There is a fair amount of money in a cork handle and reel seat. If you don't have a huge amount of time in a fancy wrap - the best thing to do is to probably take off the gui
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Larry, It is not unusual to find two spines that are 180 degrees apart. After checking for a spine - make not if one spine is a bit stiffer than the other. If one is stiffer go with that spine. However, as or more important is to check for any curves in the blank, that may or may not line up with the spine. If you do have any type band in the blank - be sure to always place the bend
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JB, Generally speaking, I wouldn't go with smaller guides; simply because if you go with smaller guides on a conventional bait caster - you will have to add one or more guides to keep the line from hitting the reel. Also, the casting distance is not likely to change. Cut off the old guides; clean up the blank , and then try a few different size guides to see any difference. I doubt very m
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Actually, you can make your own equipment to do an excellent job - for a very reasonable amount of money. I tried drilling cork and sanding -- ONCE -- in the same room where I do my wrapping - and never again. DUST Yes you can use dust collection systems etc. but the very best solution is to have your drilling, turning in one area and your wrapping in another area. Then there is never any
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Kevin, What application are you using your motor with? Are you useing it for wrapping, turning cork? or what? How fast are you running your motor, how fast is your work turning, what speed do you want the work to turn? Here are a few ideas: 1. For turning cork - I use a full length rod lathe. It is a 10 foot lathe, and the power is a 1/2 hp - 3600 rpm - 11ov AC buffer motor fit
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Rather than using spring bobbers, build pan fishing rods from fiberglass. Get a blank, where the last six inches is very flexible fiberfglass. Then, you have the bobber built into the pole. Very very sensitive, and you have a rod that is ready to go. For all of the shorter ice fishing rods, I have gone to fiberglass for the simple reason that they don't break, and they are flexible. Many
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Mike, When I do my reaming; I use a steel tapered file in a variable speed drill - running backwards. I start with a file small enough to fit in the small center hole and go to a larger file as necessary. The secret, is to wear a pair of cloth gloves and let the manderal, or cork slip as you ream the hole. By letting the mandral or cork slip as you ream it, the hole will self center.
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Not difficult to do and it makes a nice effect. However, be careful when shaping the handle. Natural cork is typically quite a bit softer than burled cork. Don't use unbacked sandpaper to turn the handle when working with different materials. Take a piece of flat stock to use as a backing board under the sandpaper when shaping the handle. If you use the backing board, you can ke
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Simplify your life. Make a nice rod turning lathe, and build all of your handles on the blank. If you make a mistake, you will have to start over - cut off the cork etc. However, as long as you are careful, this should be a very rare event indeed. I as well as many others build thier handles on the blanks with no issues. If you use a high speed lathe - like 3600 rpm- it is very ea
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Remember, the customer is always right. If I have a client that is interested in distance casting, and or line that is heavier than 6 lb test, I will typically go up to a size 30 guide for the first guide. Depending on the rod, I may also go up to a size 20 for the 2nd guide. It shouldn't take long to swap out a couple of guides and recoat them. The client will be happy that you spe
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Russell, Guide selection and placement is pretty straight forward. For example, in your case with a 10 foot rod - I might suggest the following. Start with a size 40 stripper guide and work down to a size 8. Sine you want a lot of distance and reasonaly heavy line, you don't want the guides to restrict your casting distance. I would put the first guide at about 24 inches from the reel a
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Put the handle in water that is nearly - but not quite boling temperature for about 5 minutes. The cork will absorb the water and swell back to its normal size. Then, put the rod away for a couple of weeks and let it dry completely. Then, put the rod back in the rod lathe, touch up the handle and it will look like new. Take care Roger p.s. If you have used only epoxy type glue
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[] [] [] [] [] [] The above listed motors are all DC gear motors of various voltages. In order to drive these motors, you will need a dc power supply. Since the output speed of these motors are directly proportional to the applied voltage, if you use a variable voltage dc power supply you will get a variable speed motor at the press of a foot or turn of a knob; depending
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Just out of curiosity, why in the world would you want a 200 rpm motor. If you apply finish at that speed, I find that it simply flies off the blank. If you want a 200 rpm motor, check out @#$%& for dc gear motors. Lots of such motors there. In particular the Pitney motors are very good. Typically, they will run on either 12 or 24 volts dc. You may have to make an adapter to adpat t
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Thanks for all of the posts. I appreaciate everyones comments. I can read and understand the advantages / disadvantages of each post. Thanks again. Roger
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I have looked at many of the split grip reel seats being built today by both custom rod builders as well as commercial shops. I have also built several variations of these rod styles myself. I have also used all of these various styles of split grip reel seats. I can only say one thing - I simply don't like any of them very much. About the only thing that I can say that is good a
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Mike, I have repaired and or rebuild many G Loomis IMX blanks. As part of the repair job, I simply use a very fine grade sand paper to sand down the entire blank when it is mounted in my lathe, I go to finer and finer grades of sandpaper, finishing off with a fine buffing compound. The finished product is essentially identical to the factory finish which is a buffed graphite finish. No,
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The very simple and quick thing to do is to cut off the back grip, cut off the reel seat, cut off the fore grip. Clean up the blank by scraping a razor blade perpendicular to the blank. Fit a new fore grip, a new reel seat, and a new back grip to the balnk. Glue up, clamp and call it done. Easy, quick, and it is the way that it would be done if the rod were returned to the factory f
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I agree with Putter When I build a rod like you write about, I use the following: 1. I use the plastic foam arbors that fit nicely and are easy to machine. 2. I Take the single or multiple arbors necessary to fill any openings in the reel seat. Then, I trim the arbors to length to fill the exact length of the reel seat. 3. For a casting type reel seat, there is normally an open area on
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In addition to the previous posts. I would go with a foam handle and only about 5 guides. For this type rod, there is no sense in going crazy on guides either. You should be able to get the total rod for about $20. Or you could pick up a half dozen rods lik this which would be expendable: Take care Roger
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