I have burned thru yet another Dayton motor. What kind of life are y'all getting out of the 2m037a motors? I got through almost 200 rods since May and she started smoking to the point that wife made me turn on the exhaust fan in the nearby bathroom!!! I don't know, is that good life or not?
Next question, are there competitors to dayton that might have something comparable and not so expensive?
Are there any people on here that can tell me if there is more to rebuilding a motor besides replacing the brushes? I am a neophite to that stuff (have problems with changing lightbulbs) but am a tinkerer so I am willing to try to repair in order to save $100.00......

Thanks and sorry if it was asked in the past. I did a search and didn't find anything.

I've yet to wear out the first one and have some going back 25 years. Are you using them in their original configuration or are you wiring through a reostat? Are you turning grips or just wrapping?

Something isn't right here.

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Sometimes its the foot control that crackles and smokes!!! Switch to a solid state foot control and that will solve it. I got one from a dentist friend. They use them to power their drills.

Im just wrapping. No heavy work. No EVA work. I build mostly bay trolling rods and offshore stand up tuna rods 30 up to 80 class. I am using them in their original configuration. I do wrap rather fast with the pedal to the floor when applying underwraps. I am connecting blue to white wires and I think brown to black with the green not connected to anything. Im stupid here and don't know what a reostat is, so, I would have to say, no, im not using one. I just wire directly from the motor to the extension wire. I am using the original foot pedal and it doesn't smoke or malfunction at all. I have the belt on the middle grooves of each pulley. Should I have the belt on the smallest part of the pulley or on the largest, or in the middle?

Yeah I burned two so far. I got myself a $30 variable speed drill with a 1/4 inch nut and bolt to hold the pulley on the chuck, strapped it down along with this 6 amp foot pedal (very bottom of page in link) and stopped throwing money away on those daytons.

[www.electricmotorwarehouse.com]

If you're working with the 1/15th HP motor, try the belt on the smallest rung of the motor pulley and largest rung of the headstock pulley. I think this will make quite a difference for you... and your motor. You should be able to get many, many years from these motors.

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It is now close to thirty years ago {I Think} that I got one of the first Clemens {Renzetti} lathes and am still on the original motor. I did go to a solid state foot control when they first came out {Dremel} and ALWAYS use the pulleys as Tom suggested. Dayton makes the best there is in motors and if you have a friend who belongs to Grainger Supply you can get them cheaper than retail. You will be badly disappointed if you use a brand X product.

Tight Lines
Tight Wraps
Fishin'Stix by Fred

Thanks for the input. I was thinking that a motor should last longer than 7 months, regardless of how many rods I am wrapping. I will get the pulleys set up like you suggested Tom and keep going. The only final question I have is are these motors easy to rebuild? Thanks again for all of the input. Kevin

For what they cost I'm not sure they're worth rebuilding. I did open one up many years ago to clean out the EVA dust and there's really not much to them. Depends on what you've burned out, I guess.

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Other than dust and pully alignment you should have no problem for the life of the lath. I have mine for 10 years. I clean mine once a month. I blow out all the dust an clean out the wireing. Dayton is the best on the market.
Good Wraps Bob

Kevin,
What application are you using your motor with?

Are you useing it for wrapping, turning cork? or what?

How fast are you running your motor, how fast is your work turning, what speed do you want the work to turn?

Here are a few ideas:

1. For turning cork - I use a full length rod lathe. It is a 10 foot lathe, and the power is a 1/2 hp - 3600 rpm - 11ov AC buffer motor fitted with a 1/2 inch keyless chuck. This gives plenty of power to spin the rod and cork, while the handle is being turned.

2. For wrapping, I have used several different drive systems.
a. The first drive system used a sewing machine motor, using a sewing machine resistive type foot pedal to control the speed of the motor. This first method used a 1/2 inch pulley on the motor, with a 5 inch pulley on the driven pulley, for a 10 to 1 speed reduction.
The problem with this system is that it tended to not have enough low end torque, and lack of control at very slow wrapping speeds.

b. The nest system used a sewing machine motor, with a double reduction pully system to give a 30 to 1 speed reduction. This gave a much better low end control, and still had adequate top end speed to spin the rod at any normal required wrapping speed. This
unit used an electronic speed control for a foot pedal. That is, no longer was a simple variable resistor used to control the speed.

c. The next system, used a dayton, right angle motor with a gear type reduction system. The best one turned out to be one that had a top speed of 300 rpm. The output shaft is a 1/2 inch shaft. On this shaft, I mounted a 5 inch machinest chuck to hold the rod handle
while turning the rod. The big advantage of this sytem, was that all belts were elminiated, and it had the excellent advantage of direction reversal. i.e. I simply added a double pole doub le pole switch in the correct way to access the brush wires that are routed to the outside of the motor. At the flip of a switch, the direction of the motor is reversed, and this allows easy mistake repair.
The real only downside to this system, was that it is somewhat noisy because of the type gears used in the drive reduction.

d. The current system uses a 24 volt dc gear drive motor. This system uses a 24 volt power supply with a commercial foot pedal to control the 24 volt voltage from 0 to 24 volts. This allows infinite speed control from 0 to 300 rpm at the output shaft of the motor.
The motor is coupled to a belt to drive 1:1 pulleys to drive a 3 inch machinest chuck to hold the rod. Again, due to the type dc motors,, direction is easily reversed by reversing the polarity of the voltage being fed to the motor. This is accomplished by the use of a double pole double throw switch, routing the dc motors through the switch and to the motor. Again, excellent speed control, reversibility for mistake repair, small size and absolute quiet.

Take care
REW

I am using the lathe for wrapping only. I have changed the pulley configuration as noted by Tom above and will see if that will help. I know nothing about electrical stuff so I am not eager to modify the electrical setup. As for the repairing of the smoking motor, I have disassembled the motor. It has buildup where the brushes make contact. I am going to clean the brush contact points and see if that rectifies the problem. If it does, I have 3 more in a box that can also be brought back to life and used in the future.

Kevin Knox
ANGLER'S ENVY CUSTOM RODS
QUEEN ANNE, MD 21657
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www.anglersenvy.com

25 years, wow. How many rods are you making a year? Im getting about 300 per motor.

Turning a couple or three grips will put more wear and tear on a motor than wrapping 300 rods per year. Your motors should be lasting much longer. I think you're taxing them by denying them the mechanical advantage offered by the pulleys. You're trying to run at a 1 to 1 ratio and that little 1/15th HP motor is being asked to do too much. Make the pulley/belt change and I think you've burned out your last motor.

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