You have answered all of your questions. If you like the wood fore grip - go for it. Wood can be a very pretty grip. It also does work well at the expense of some weight. Take care Roger
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Tim, P.S. Here is a picture from a Pac Bay Catalog showing a roller guide setupl. Note the tip on the left side of the picture. Then, note the double roller guide on the right side of the picture. The left side of the picture would be for the tip of the rod. The right side of the picture would be for the butt of the rod. As you illustrated in your picture, you have the orientati
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Tim, The way that you have your pictures labeled is the correct way to mount the guides. The guiding factor is to insure that you have a smooth line flow, when the rod is deeply flexed, and all of the stress is being taken by the roller and no line is rubbing on any part of the guide or blank. The double roller guide setup is designed to keep the high line coming in from the reel, to not
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Ted, Just drop me an e-mail at hflier@comcast.net and I will get them to you. Roger
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When the holiday clutter cleared, I had a few minutes to finish the drying motor that I was building. I had found a couple of 0-50 rpm DC gear motors from an engineering lab. This also included the 90 volt controllers. I built a stand for the motor using aluminum bar stock, and a chuck using a pvc cap and coupler turned down on a lathe to hold a neoprene style rod chuck. I built the co
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Ronald, Put the reel seat on the blank in the position that either the client wishes, or is most comfortable for your use, if building it for yourself. Of course, when looking at Reel Seats, there are many many variations in seats. This is one of the advantages of custom building. The rod can be built with any of many different possibilities. You can make up locking, down locking, open
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David, When repairing all of the broken rods that come to the shop - I use both an inner sleeve as well as an outer sleeve - that is inserted in the blank, and over the blank by at least 2-3 inches. For a heavier rod lke yours, I would extend the repair to 4 inches on each side. I would also be sure to use an oversleeve, in addition to the under sleeve. One thing that I always try to do
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I have added a few pictures of the tip - fine blank stand in the equipment section: This holder worked very well when working with these very fine 1-3/64th blanks. Sometimes, I almost feel like I am trying to wrap a wet noodle - with these very fine limber blanks. Take care Roger
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Marty, I have unhid my e-mail. Thanks for the update. Roger
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I am in the process of building a bunch of ice rods. Many of these rods have very very very fine tips. i.e. tips of about size 2/64th. As a result, much of the rod is like trying to wrap a wet noodle. Since the tips are so fine the conventional rod rests - either in the form of a v block or support wheels really don't work very well. As I was getting ready to wrap the next batch,
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Bill, You are right. However, half the fun is making the machines to do the job. Take care Roger
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Matt, If you know, what is the tip diameter of the SC5 6'6" m-l ? I think that the brown was 4/64ths. Thanks much Roger
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Brian, If you have the typical AC sewing machine motor on the wrapper - it is somewhat difficult to reverse the motor. To reverse these motors, you need to flip the orientation of the brushes with respect to the armature. Some of these motors have the windings connected internally. As a result, it is impossible to reverse these motors having hidden connections, without partially removing some
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Jon, One thing that really helps a lot to have straight edges, is to use high speed when applying finish. If you get the rod spinning nicely at 15-50 rpm, it is trivial to make very straight edges. Also, the idea of resting your hand on a steady rest, or your other hand is also excellent advice. Take care Roger
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Here are some nice pictures off another forum of slicing jigs. Take care Roger
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p.s. If the foot pedal that you add to your motor is momentary, you might also add a bypass switch as well to your motor. i.e. put in a switch to leave the motor on all of the time, or in the other position enable the foot switch. A simple single pole double pole switch will take care of that. Otherwise, a push on, push off foot pedal will do this function as well. I prefer the momen
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James, Add an off and on foot switch to your 18 rpm finish motor. That way, when needed, stop your motor, put on the finish in the nooks and crannies, and then put the pedal to the metal again. When done getting the finish on, put it on your slow dryer and go over each guide with a gentle source of heat to insure that everything is smooth, bubble free, and straight edges. You will find
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Alex, I agree with everything you say. i.e. I don't like to cast, retreive, or use a rod that is very heavy in the tip. If it is slightly tip heavy - fine. But if it is very tip heavy, I take measures to reduce the tip weight. There are some fishing techniques that essentially keep the rod tip pointed nearly straight down all of the time. A lot of the Muskie techniques are like this as
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Scotty, I never worry about bubbles in my epoxy. I mix quite quickly with a broad flat ended spatula. As a result there are generally lots of bubbles in the epoxy. However, after mixing, I simply apply to my rod using a high speed application of about 50 rpm. Then, I transfer my rods to my drying stand with its 6 rpm motor. At that time, I use gentle heat from a heat gun to both thin as
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Robert, One of my favorite lines is 10# yellow power pro. If you would like to drop me a private e-mail to: hflier@comcast.net if there is any possible source for more of this line. Thanks much Roger p.s. I also use the same line for my line pulls and it works very well. I think that I
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James, Don't make this too complicated. I assume that the rod is a multi section rod. You can easily disassemble the rod, and load each section individually to get a good feel for the overall loaded shape of each section. Really, the only thing one has to do, when figuring guide location and spacing is to put a guide where the rod bend and just enough of them so that the line will foll
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Alex, How are you adding weight to the rod? Do you have the weight on the extreme end of the butt - i.e. all of the weight is past the end of the current rod butt? If so, you have the longest lever arm to achieve balance with minimal added weight. After fishing balanced, unbalanced, and nearly balanced rods, I find that I favor a rod, that ahcieves the closest balance with the minimum a
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John, Call custom tackle. The nice aluminum cork cutting jig does an excellent job of cutting both slices as well as cutting pie shapes. The tool of choice for this jig is a jewelers saw - with a blade width of .010 inches. This width is the perfect fit for the jig. If you had a band saw blade that was that thin, you could use the jig on its side and use the band saw for it as well.
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James, You can follow Gregs advice, or to the same thing without cutting the blank. You can achieve the same thing, by simply typing a guide an inch, two inches, three inches, or etc. etc. down the blank to check the change in the rods characteristics. This is done, without damaging or changing the original blank. If you do find that you like the tip somewhere other than as delivered,
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Do the floor tiles have finish on one side? I would think that if they do, it could cause a glue up some issues. Take care Roger
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James, I feel your pain. I have done that before and ended up just building a bunch of spec rods with ok guides just to clear the inventory. However, it worked out all right. In fact, some of the original customers that wanted the faster tipped rods, were much happier with the slower tipped rod. They had picked up a faster tipped rod later, but they ended up using the slower tipped rod
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Tom, Thanks for the update. The speed and general type was the information that I was looking for. Thanks again. Roger
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Tom, In your drum wrapper: What was the particular motor that you used to power the dryer? Thanks much Roger
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Ben, In contrast to some of the other posts, I agree with you on the guide size - if you are using heavier line. Also, if you run running heavier lures with the heavier line, the larger first guide makes sense. When I use the concept guides on similar rods, I generally run a 30, 16, 10, 8j, 8 and the rest 6 to the tip. If I am running lighter line - I run the same guides, excpet I use a
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Ted, How thick can you purchase the bulletin board cork? Take care Roger
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