Bill, You make some good points. I do think that this “micro guide” designation has gotten some people confused. The “micro guides” are simply smaller guides that have recently been made available to us. I don’t know why its being labeled as a “system” in itself. I know that there’s one or two individuals that have been touting them…and perhaps using them as their “claim to f
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Denis, You’ve referred to something (profound) that "SteveS" said several times……I believe you mean Steve Rushing.
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Seems to me that with many of these types of threads, that it becomes a matter of separating the “wheat from the chaff”. Some interesting points can be gleaned from the discussion, if one can maintain their objectivity......and/or sense of humor. The effect of inertia on guides on a longer rod (say 8’ vs. 6’) would surely be a factor, wouldn’t it? After replacing the titanium 5.5’s o
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I think scientific/engineering theory (without the arrogance) is a good thing. A lot of it is what I refer to as “reverse engineering”. Being a retired mechanical designer without formal education (degree), I recall being accused (by one of my educated superiors) of being an “intuitive designer”. Although it was not meant as a compliment, I was flattered by it. It was enlightening to have
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Scott, I built several casting rods using the Recoils last year. I used the SINGLE foot RSPG’s in sizes 10, 8 and 6’s to the tip. I used a Fuji TFST 5.5 tip top. One of the rods received heavy use this summer and the guides seemed to hold up very well…..caught many 5 lb+ bass. I am switching back to Fuji Ti’s and micros, but I can’t say the Recoils didn’t perform satisfactorily. I ju
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Although I don’t use the COMMON CENTS SYSTEM quite the way it was intended, it has proved to be an invaluable tool (process) that enables me to categorize all my rods by power, action and lure ranges. I don’t rely on someone else to advise me as to which rod or blank to use for a given application, or to use the latest buzzwords, “technique specific” application. LOL. Not only do the spe
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Duane, at the risk of answering what might be a “trick question” on your part, I suppose that the tip would be the least sensitive, but not because of different materials used for the tip vs. the butt end. The flexing would be because of smaller diameter at the tip end as opposed to the butt end. I know that there are blank makers using different modulus materials in different blank sections
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I routinely cut 1” to 2 ½ “off the tips of most of my rods. I determine how much by CCS testing. The sensitivity is improved and the slightly stiffer tip allows me to work my lures more effectively. Anyway, it works for me.
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Just for the record, I just replaced the Recoil guides on one of my casting rods. The Recoils replaced were RSPG single foots, 10, 8, 6, 6, 6, 6 with a Fuji TFST 5.5 tip-top. I replaced them with Fuji TLSG’s (SF Ti/sic)10, 8, 5.5 and LSG’s (sic) 4, 3.5, 3.5 and also a 3.5 SF for the tip-top. The rod weight with Recoils was 3.02 ozs. With the Fuji’s it’s 3.01 ozs. Although the rod received
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Mo, There is a slightly different method of aligning guides that Don Morton showed to me several years ago that you might want to consider. I also use small reels (w/10 or 15# braid) with a 25 TATSG butt guide. It has never made sense to me that when all guides (up to choker) are aligned, they’d resemble an archery target (concentric), BUT the spool would be ECCENTRIC to those. With the
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I agree with Steve. Ninety nine percent of “wind knot” problems are from loose line on the spool caused be engaging the bail by turning the reel handle. Engaging the bail manually should solve the problem. Twisted line is not likely the problem since braid is so flexible and has no memory like mono. I also doubt that the guide spacing is part of the problem.
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Steve, You and Bill have already said as much and I’m sure your “testing” has got you convinced and that’s all you need to know. I’d still like some speculative ideas as to WHY. If you’re achieving this kind of results, perhaps rotating the guides once more around the blank would give you another 5 or 10 percent. (I’m being facetious, of course and I apologize) The validity of t
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I’d really like to hear anyone speculate as to the results achieved in the test done by BASS & WALLEYE BOATS magazine that Bill posted above. To get a 7 to 9 per cent increase in casting distance is certainly noteworthy. In going to the rodbuilders site that furnished the test rods, I see they also claim much better sensitivity with the spiral…… but that’s a whole new subject.
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I tried no prepping, but when wrapping, the thread (size A) pushed the guides out from the tape. I tried a “blocking” band of tape but that couldn’t be done for the tip (also SF 3.5). I use a small brad (nail) which allows me to roll the guide and ramp the leading edge. Btw, the metal of the brad is much softer than the guide material, so scratching is not an issue.
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Ilya, That would be the case if the rodbuilder was concerned about the line touching the blank. IMO, the main reason for the static test is to locate the guides so that they equally distribute the stress on the blank. The shallower the angle to the blank, the less stress. The greater angle and the further the line is from the blank puts more stress on the blank because of the “purse string”
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Marc, I use considerably less guides than the accepted "rule of thumb". For ME, the benefits far exceed the risks. I do think with the availability of the lighter “micro guides”, that those who do follow the "rule of thumb" will see a dramatic improvement in rod performance.
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Emory said: “Yes, you (Bob Balcombe)are right, the fewer guides that are used the higher the stresses will be. The number of guides used is a trade off like many other things in rod building. Nothing is for free, there is always a price to pay.” He also said: “With smaller lighter weight guides the reduction in resonant frequency will be less.” Bill said: “So it seems the point is no
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Steve, I agree that “static testing” is subjective. I also agree that the “wave effect” you refer to may affect casting efficiency to some degree. When I used mono, I was able to better control it with the first guide placement, as opposed to more guides. Since I now use primarily braids, it seems to be a much lesser issue. In answer to your question as to the testing I’ve done, I’
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Steve, You said “And found that the rod with smaller running guides and larger stripper/transition guides performed the best even with the extra guide”. Do you mean that they performed (distance) the best IN SPITE of the extra guide? Or, did some of your testing specifically show better results with more guides? I’m not arguing with you, just looking for clarification. The Fuji site you me
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Steve, I’ve been thinking about your “test results” and what you said (“In theory I should not be able to cast a rod with more guides further then one with less guides, but in application, I do it every time I go fishing”). Going back and reading your posts, I got the impression you were testing for “distance results” using different sized guides….not necessarily more vs. less. (
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With all this discussion about casting distance, I think that we’re really using distance as a measure of casting efficiency, or ease of casting. Most of us are not so concerned about extremely long casts, but like a rod that casts accurately with less effort. (Not to mention other desirable attributes such as sensitivity, hook setting power, fish control, etc, etc.) The distance a rod casts wo
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Steve, I’m not advocating using too few of the guides. Static testing is still a valid exercise, but I think many rodbuilders are overly concerned about line/blank contact. Many allude to the belief that casting rods with conventional (guides on top) require more guides because of this. As I said previously, I have no more guides than an “equivalent” Spiral wrapped (or a comparable spinning
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Bobby, I think your question raises a very interesting point. So much so, that I think it warrants a new thread ( Line touching blank?), which I think will invoke more opinions.
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In Steve Gardner’s thread regarding Micro Guides & casting distance, Bobby Feazel’s question at the top of page three brings up a very important point IMO. So much so, that I think it warrants a new thread. I don’t think it makes any difference whether a rod is casting or spinning when static testing (or actual use) as to the line distance from the blank. The line angle relative to t
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Jay, the rod will perform noticeably better with the smaller guides that you proposed. I have downsized the guides on many rods with dramatic results.
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Ted, I agree with you. Although all things, including “cheap”, being relative, there are some lower priced reels available that offer good quality AND light weight. Since they may lack a half dozen or more ball bearings, they are admittedly not quite as smooth as some of the high dollar reels. For the guy that needs more than one or two reels and price is an issue, it’s possible to buy s
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I would think that each person would have a physiological sense of feel unique to their own body. Relative differences in rod and reel weight would still be an issue, but I would think that a “smaller” person would be more acutely aware of weight differences.
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Last November I posted on this forum “Reel Weights Effect On Sensitivity” and got some interesting insights and theories. For the last few days, I’ve been following several interesting posts discussing handle materials and weights and their effects on sensitivity. I think most of us realize that once a near optimum product is achieved, it can be very difficult to make even the slightest i
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If you have an old spinning reel that you no longer use, strip it down to the bare body, then cut (hacksaw) away the rear half of the gear housing leaving the front of the frame attached to the reel foot. This will leave the front spindle bearing hole exposed and visible when sighting from the butt of the rod. Install in the rods reel seat and use like a gunsight. It can be used to align guides f
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I use Cabela’s “Two-Part Professional Rod Finish”. Which comes in a pre-measured .13 ounce (3.5 grams) packet (enough for one rod). They cost about a buck apiece which may be pricy, but they are very convenient to use and I get good results with them. You just fold the packet, snip off the corner and squeeze out.
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