I think that some kind of testing would go a long way towards convincing the skeptics that the science is applied correctly to replicate the relative sensitivity of various rod configurations.
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Thanks guys for the additional input. I should probably clarify that I was mistaken in thinking that a stiffer rod was more sensitive. I usually cut several inches off a “fast” tip blank because I feel it gives me better control of a bait. Although this may come at the expense of casting ease, I feel it removes the “shock absorber” effect when I twitch a topwater lure, rip the lure thr
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I've read (several times) Emory Harry's excellent article on SENSITIVITY in RodMaker magazine and thought it was very educational. He stated in the article that: "So the higher the mass density of the blank and/or the higher the stiffness of a blank, the higher the impedance to vibrations will be and the lower the sensitivity. And the lower the mass density and/or the lower the stif
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Steve, I have 8 or 10 of the Fuji LSH (not UHS) "Speed handles". Some of which I removed from rods and replaced with traditional graphite/cork handles. They are made of injection molded hypolon and plastic components and considerably heavier than graphite/cork reel seats. They did make a comfortable grip.
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Steve and Tom, Thanks for the clarification.
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Maybe I’m missing something, but I’ve been under the impression that the ERN power rating would apply to any rod regardless of length. My rods are not particularly powerful. (The lure weight ranges are approx ¼ to ½ once). However, the rods are relatively short (5’6” to 5’9”) by todays standards. Is it possible that the “short” length is resulting in an inordinate amount of weig
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Thanks Tom, I'll look forward to seeing #3.
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I use the Common Sense System to get the relative ratings of my Casting rods and since many of the rods require over 200 cents to deflect 1/3 of the overall length, I’d like to know if there is a conversion to an ERN number. The Rosetta Stone Chart tops out at 173 cents. I don’t know if there is an advantage to having an ERN number, but I’m curious.
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I have done several extensions on older 5 ½ foot boron bass rods (casting & spinning) which were built using the old Lew’s "glue in" type pistol grip “speed handles” where only 1 ¾ “ of the blank was epoxied into the foregrip. Once the handle was removed, and the butt was extended (with the taper reversed), I was able to build on a conventional reel seat and cork grips. T
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Tom, Randy, Dave, With the headband style magnifiers, what power would you recommend?
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Alexander, See what I mean? There’s nothing like a good spirited debate (however one-sided) to get the juices flowing. And YOU started it! Nothing much better to do on these cold winter days (unless it’s building a new rod). It wasn’t too long ago that the “experts” told us that it was absolutely imperative that the rod spine be correctly oriented in order to have a truly function
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Tom, For those of us where torque is not a problem, why would we want to Intentionally mis-align our guides (even though it would only minimally affect casting distance)? You're probably beating a dead horse, but your courageous efforts may convince those less stubborn than myself (or Emory). I admire your tenacity and your never ending dedication to us rodbuilders.
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Dave, No disrespect and I’m sorry if my comments to Alexander has somehow offended your sensibilities or put you on the defensive. I merely meant to validate his sanity and let him know that the “traditional” guide placement is still viable. If you remember my post dated December 1, 2006 (spiral wrap vs. conventional), I stated “I can’t help but wonder if anyone out there, besides m
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Alexander, I hope you realize that you’re opening a “pandora’s box”. I too have no problems with the “traditional” setup (regardless of the orientation of the spine), so I see no need to convert to the “spiral wrap” to fix a problem that doesn’t exist, at least, not for me. I use very small guides (5.5 and 6’s) which have a very small moment arm and whatever torque is incur
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Chuck, One of your graphite bodied Shimano’s might work out well assuming the spool centerline height is compatible with your guide heights. I’ve found that many of the newer reels, especially those under $300, are far too heavy. Ball bearings seem to add considerable weight to reels and more than one or two seem redundant to me since there are no moving reel parts when casting. Because I us
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Chuck, Really nice rod. I am curious about what reel you’d use on it. Weight saving is also one of my obsessions and I’ve found it a challenge to find reels that perform well that are light.
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I've been unsuccessfully searching for Fuji titanium guide weights. I normally use Fuji titaniums (TLVSG-10, TLVSG-8, TLSG-6J,TLSG-5.5J's and TFST 5.5 top) on my casting rods but I'd like to try the RECOILS (RSPG) in comparable sizes. (I'd still use the Fuji TFST top with the RECOILS) I have the weights of the RECOIL's but if any of you knows where I can get the weight of the Fuji's, I'd appreci
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Emory, That further clarifies what Tom said. You’ve previously told me that rod length did affect sensitivity along with the other variables that affect the resonant frequency, but you didn’t elaborate or go into whether the effect was positive or negative. I figured it might be beneficial to post this question on RB to give others (besides myself) the benefit of your wisdom. The differen
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Anson, Although my rods (and reels) are lightweight, they are fairly heavy action (I should say power). Tom, Well said, thanks
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I just noticed that I spelled sensitivity wrong! Shows how much I know about it. Don't make fun of me....I've got feelings too.
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Mike Yes the longer rod does give more of a lever but the longer lever means more torque required by you at the fulcrum point.. I use VERY light guides and no foregrip.
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For my style of bass fishing, I’ve found that shorter rods (5’6” to 5’8” casting and spinning) work better for me. My friends have tried to convince me that longer rods are better, but I cling to my beliefs that in addition to increased agility, the shorter lengths offer me more mechanical advantage and allow me to use shorter handles which in turn further reduces overall weight. Cast
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One of my pet peeves is the "taboo" of the line EVER contacting the blank. I gladly accept the tradeoff of fewer guides to benefit from lighter weight (toward the tip) for the adverse effects of the line contacting the blank when it's under load. I also use low (TLSG) #5.5 and #6 single foot guides to minimize the moment arm (lever) that the "spiral" fans are so concerned ab
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Tom, Both you and Emory make very compelling arguments and although I’m inclined to agree with Emory, I think you make some very valid points. It still seems strange to me that the “spiral” hasn’t caught on if the advantages were that obvious. Fisherman can be very competitive and any small advantage is usually quickly seized on. I know this subject has been beat to death, but I’m su
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WOW! I never imagined seeing so many impassioned responses. I think my original question was whether there was anyone out there not hooked on “spiral wraps”. My post may have been misconstrued as a cry for help, but I did appreciate all the points of view. Many of them were educational. After reading some of the “spiral” proponents convincing arguments, I cannot help but wonder why “
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Tom, I realize what you’re saying about the line not circling or spiraling around the rod, but the reel is still 180 degrees from the tip top. As you say, “It follows a mostly straight path by the rod on one side”, but it still has to get “around” the blank. Granted, even the “conventional” system encounters slight angles in the line path depending on the position of the reel’s l
Forum: rodboard

I can’t help but wonder if anyone out there, besides me, is NOT hooked on “Spiral Wraps”. Before I go on, I’m not trying to start a controversy or an argument or even a civilized debate. I’m sure some well intentioned Samaritan out there will be tempted to save me from myself. I’m a retired mechanical designer and I understand the mechanics and advantages of the “spiral” in a
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I agree with you Dave. It used to be common practice to run the line over the top of the thumb as it came out of the reel while gripping the reel at the foregrip. This allowed direct contact with the line without the “deadening” (better word than “dampening”?) effect of the rod/reel. It was especially effective back in the old days when rods/reels were pretty clunky (another technical ter
Forum: rodboard

Food for thought: If you were to clamp (or tape) a two or three once weight to one of your reels, would you notice a difference in the rods performance? I know the term “sensitivity” may be subject to interpretation, but without having to get into physics, I think you’d see (or feel) what I mean by adding weight to the reel. When I started fishing a little over a ½ century ago, I used a
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I haven’t seen any posts regarding reel weight and its effect on overall rod/reel sensitivity. It is my feeling that the lightest reel possible (less mass) has less of a dampening effect to a rod’s sensitivity. Although I don’t believe that the weight of a casting reel has much, if any, effect on a rods “action”, I do think that because of a spinning reels location (distance from reel s
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