I built a FW702 as a trout rod and I’d say it’s a true light action rod. Very pleased with it, plenty sensitive with a good backbone. I’d echo what was said above, tad strong for bluegills but great small fish rod. the 701 would be more like the St Croix ultralights in my opinion.
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Yes, fishing a 1/2 above AFTMA standard means to use a half powered heavier line. Many companies specify if the line runs true to rating, half size, or full size heavier. I.E. SA Infinity Plus taper is a full size heavier; SA Amplitude Infinity is true to size, SA Mastery Infinity taper is a half size heavier. Overlining the rod will make a fast rod a tad slower which, depending on your
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I just finished a rod for a family member and the finish quality is fairly sub par for my standards. The epoxy over the writing is wavy, it didn’t even out on the guides much at all, and there’s some ridges that came out which weren’t there from the thread. It’s threadmaster high build but about 2 years old. Epoxy was applied within 15min of mixing, ambient temp was about 70F, I had a heater goin
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Thank you both for your advice. I’ve built 5-6 KR concept rods but have only used the software and static testing. Figured I’d try to follow the guidelines to get a better understanding of the “why” it’s spaced out in that manner, when the GPS and angular method didn’t match that’s when I knew to ask here rather than assume. I’ll proceed with the 20” and follow Les’ advice about the 42% length
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I’m building a spinning rod and was comparing the KR guidelines to the KR GPS on anglers resource. The rod is 82” long, reel mounted approximately 13” from the butt, and the reel is a Pflueger President 3500. The guidelines state to lay the first guide out based on the angle of the spool axis. This places the first guide approximately 29” from the tip of the spool axis. The distance from the
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Just performed CCS measurements for a RodGeeks C4 blank C4610MXF IP 529g AA 74.4
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What brand of epoxy did you use? Im fairly new (only about 20 or so builds under my belt). ProKote is the only epoxy I’ve had get tacky on me and did exactly as you described. Took a week or so for it not to be tacky. It could also be due to excessive humidity or unequal epoxy resin/hardener volumes. 70deg is at the lower suggested threshold for epoxy curing but still perfectly fine. I
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It’s my understanding that the Choke guide is the first running guide following the reduction guides, so it can be the same size
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I try to order from GetBit more than any other company. They’re great to do business with, fast shipping, orders have always been accurate, and whenever I had an issue they took care of it. I previously had a cork fly handle split when reaming it out by hand. I contacted GetBit with the intention of ordering a replacement and within a couple days I had a new one at my door at no cost
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I built a RodGeeks C4904-4 (paired with SA Amplitude Infinity fly line) for my dad and a NFC F904-2 (paired with basic cheeky preload fly line) for myself. The Rodgeeks blank is one of the best casting rods I’ve ever used, I’m not sure if it’s because of the line but it’s nearly effortless. While the NFC is still an excellent blank, the Rodgeeks is just simply better. The LMX FAF series is t
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NFC has been nothing but good to me. Only have had one blank that I questioned if I got the right one. It was an IM DS6107 but had CCS numbers more in lines with the Delta DS6107. Other than that, my recent order contained an IM MB704 but a decal for an MB734; the CCS is about 26g more than the other MB704 I ordered in the past, but still less than a 5% difference so I think it’s acceptable. Rega
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I’ll be the odd man out, I prefer a size 16 seat on my trout and panfish rods, and vary between 16-17 seats for bass rods whatever I feel like using. The 17 is probably the biggest I’d use personally, I just don’t think anything bigger would be comfortable for me.
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I agree with Lynn and David. Building is a hobby for me, and my time spent enjoying a hobby means more than a monetary value.If I ever saw my time spent for a hobby or activity that brings me enjoyment as dollar signs, then I’d need to reevaluate my priorities. That’s just my opinion and I only build for myself and family. I don’t do it as a side business, which then obviously time is now a m
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A few for the list, most are duplicates but achieved numbers that support or vary from existing data which I’ll also include to make life easy. CRB IS66ML - IP 396, AA 67 (currently in database; IP390, no AA; 1.5% difference between IPs) RodGeeks C266MLF - IP 360, AA 73.8 (currently in database; IP 424, AA78; 15% difference between IPs) NFC IM MB704 (post build) - IP 578, AA 74 (currently in
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CRB would be a great youth rod. I’ve built 2 of them, a 66MLF and a 66LF. I’d recommend going with light. They seem to have a very stiff action, I bought the ML for using live bait on big trout streams and it was too stiff. It’s now my camping rod because it’s a fairly versatile bass blank. The light power rod is more in lines of what I’d expect for a stream rod. Another option would be a
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Works for me, The feather/hook work on the cover page is incredible
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Thank you guys for the feedback. The C2 felt like it had more power than similar St Croix SCII and SCIII blanks I’ve fished. But not by much. My only concern with an XRay is our normal spot we fish usually involves some bushwacking to access and I’ve heard they aren’t the most durable rods out there. I’ve broke the tip off an XRay before the 4th time out with it. an SJ703 or SB682 Xray would
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Good afternoon, Over the weekend I broke my trout rod about 16” from the tip. It was a RodGeeks C266MLF that handled 10-14” trout well. I’ve always been a St Croix fan and my last “factory” rod that I used for trout was a 7’ ML Premier. But now that it’s not repairable, I’m looking to build a new rod and considering NFC. I mostly am fishing larger streams, about 125-150ft wide, with an ave
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St Croix does in fact sell blanks. RodGeeks is St Croix blank “store” and they are shipped directly from St Croix. C2 = SCII (Premier & Triumph) C4 = SCIV (Legend & Imperial Fly Rods) C5= SCV (Legend series) B2 = SCII (pre 2016 mojos, BassX) B3 = SCIII (Avid and newer Mojos) B4 = SCIV (Legend Tournaments) Regarding fly rods, I recently built a RodGeeks C4904-4 (9’ 4wt, 4pc) fly r
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Les, Thank you for the detailed explanation!
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How are you guys reaming foam arbors without epoxying them into the reel seat first? I use the poly foam arbors on most builds but I need to epoxy them in the reel seat prior to reaming, otherwise they get destroyed during the reaming process. Even when installed in the reel seat there’s a good chance they rip apart. I’ve tried using the graphite brick arbors but have never get them to fit prope
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You may also be able to contact Abu/Pure Fishing to see if they can send you a few guides. Abu Garcia has always had good customer service especially for a Doyo brand
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I’ll add that I recently built an NFC F 904-2 (Classic) for myself and a RodGeeks C4904-4 for my dad. The RodGeeks outperforms the NFC, its casting is noticeably better for us two mediocre fly casters, and I’d say almost effortless. I’m still a relatively new builder but the RodGeeks I was shocked with how much better it performs against rods 1.5-2 times the cost that I have into it. The NFC
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I agree with what’s been said above, more expensive components and blanks don’t necessarily mean a fly rod will perform better. I don’t have much experience as I’ve only built 3 fly rods (a 6’6” RS Rev 2wt, a 9’ 4wt RodGeeks C4, and a 9’ 4wt NFC classic) so take this with a grain of salt. The RodGeeks blank is cheaper than the NFC, $100 vs $170, but the RodGeeks casts much more effortlessly. Howe
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CCS is also for conventional rods as well as fly and surf rods. It essentially assigns a number to the power and action of a blank to more standardize the nomenclature since one companies Medium power might be what another calls a Medium Heavy. Keep in mind though that just because some rods carry the same values doesn’t necessarily mean the rods serve the same purpose. Material, taper, softn
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Big fan of the RodGeeks C2 blanks for trout fishing. They have a 5’6” ultralight and a 6’ light that would be great. I’ve built two C266ML rods for trout fishing (spinners and salted minnows) and they’re perfect for what we do. Another option would be an NFC FW601. I prefer Loomis actions for trout honestly. I picked up an IMX last summer at a tackle shop and fell in love with it. It’s the fir
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Al, it appears you are using NGC rather than KR Concept for spacing. If you are going with KR concept, I’d suggest using the KR guide placement software available on the Anglers Resource Website. A quick check with the software shows the choke guide would be placed approximately 36” from the tip of the reels spool. Close to the “table method” of the NGC. Like Norman has said, the KR concept often
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I second the SJ736 blank. In my opinion it feels like a true MH power, Fast action blank. Very versatile rod, I use it for everything from finesse jigs, weightless Texas rigs, light pitching and even some 3.8 swimbaits. If you wanted to go a little cheaper, the IM-MB704 would make a great multipurpose rod too. The IM would be more durable as well
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13 uses Fuji guides, the Fate in particular uses Fuji Alconite according to the description on Tackle Warehouse
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Hard to argue against Fuji Alconites or Alps Zirconia. I’ve also used CRB pro and elite guides with great success. I’d shy away from a kit. You can usually build your own guide train for cheaper and good chance it’ll be better. The only time I’d go with a kit would be for Microwaves especially on bass rods. All would be right around the same cost depending on frame material.. But If you’re wan
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