I've done this on my walleye jigging rods all the time. I use round foam weatherstripping pushed into the blank. Then, use lead shotgun shot, the smaller the better, to balance the rod with the reel. Once you get the correct amount determined, mix it with 2 part epoxy. Replace into the blank and stand vertically to cure. Works great and will never move.
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Where are you guys getting your Batson RDRs?
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Hi. I'm looking to build a couple to walleye trolling rods. I will be using #4 and #5 shad raps. Looking to use 8-9 foot blanks. This will allow me to get a better spread out of the boat. I like the fly blanks for their moderate action. I'm thinking about using a 7 or 8 weight 2 piece blanks. I'm wondering if any of you have done this already. If so, how did it work out? What would you chan
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Hi Dave. As far as the guides, read up on the following article: In short, the guide size and spacing is a product of the reel you use. Ever since I started using this method, I feel my rods are lighter. It's also much faster to set up. I don't have personal experience building such a rod yet but if all else fails, look to see what production rods are using. At least that would give you some ide
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Thanks for all the responses. I was wondering if the steelhead rods would work. The lengths are what I need but how does the lure/line weight compare to spinning rods? If it says it's rated 3/8-3/4 does that translate to 3/8 ounce to 3/4 ounce lures? Thanks.
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Hi. I'm looking to build a couple of trolling rods for size 4, 5 and sometimes 7 Shad Raps. I want the blanks 8 to 10 feet long, medium action. Any suggestions for blanks? Thanks for your time and experience. Kevin
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I would build a St Croix 6 1/2 or 7 foot medium weight fast action rod. Casting or spinning is your choice. SC II, SC III or SC IV depending on how much you want to spend. This makes a good, all around fishing rod for the bass, walleye and northern pike they have. Just my opinion....Kevin
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I started on rods. If you don't like how it turns out, you can always cut it off and do it again.
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I did read the article when it first came out. I was going by memory (a scary thing to do anymore!) but I made note of the important info. I tried a test sample but just spread it out on some foil to harden. I will try leaving it in the cup next time. The three batches I have run have cured great. No bubbles I have noticed yet. I tried two ball bearings but I think three works better. It raises t
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Posted some pictures.
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Sure. Until I can get the pictures posted, this is what I did. Ordered the following motor . The wiring diagram calls for an optional SPDT switch. I used one but it truely is optional. I ordered 1/2 inch stainless steel balls from . I use flex coat mixing cups. Glue one cup to a cork ring with a 1/4 inch center hole. This will snug fit the output shaft of the motor. Mix your epoxy in anothe
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Greetings, Just wanted to thank all those who willingly share their information. I used my mixer for the first time last night. What a treat! Well mixed and no bubbles. Should have done this sooner. What a great web site. This bucks the trend of corporate life. It's not who you know but what you know (or can learn). Thanks Tom!!!!
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Bill, I think they are all correct. I think you will find a different height for the rings based on the ring size. I use size 6 all the time. There is almost no height to the ring other than the ring size itself. I expect the taller ring from one of your sources is a 10 ring. Just my opinion....
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Hi. I have the motor for the mixer. I'm planning to use the flex coat mixing cups. What are you guys using to hold the cup (the part that mounts to the motor shaft)? Also, where did you get the steel mixing balls? Thanks for your time!
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