For what it is worth...durability is no kind of concern. I have one of the original failed grips I built in 2007. It is a RHW fly grip built on 8# density foam with a 1/4" bore. It was laid up with West Systems epoxy and 1.5" Heavy sleeve. Just for kicks, I drove my wife's Toyota Highlander over it and it did not crush. It is marked up badly, but not broken. I'm not kidding and
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I purchased several large spools of the size A nylon and now have probably a half dozen rods wrapped and finished with it. It is different than Gudebrod but in my opinion it is very good thread. It definitely is slightly more woven than Gudebrod...it stays rounder even when burnished. Seems to be composed of more, smaller strands. I have not mic'd it, but as Craig observes above it is a
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Shoot...you don't need any help from me, than. Let us know how it turns out and post some pics! Shaka Brah!
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I don't think you guys are keeping an open mind. There could be a good reason to flame Permagloss. It would just need to be something like...you hate the way you look with eyebrows. In all seriousness, I use a disposable butane lighter when I freeze fame finish. I keep it moving constantly back and forth about 2" - 3" under the rod while also rotating the rod constantly. I keep
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I don't think you guys are keeping an open mind. There could be a good reason to flame Permagloss. It would just need to be something like...you hate the way you look with eyebrows.
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Hello Bill - I got mine directly from Flex Coat. Any of the sponsors at left who carry Flex Coat can get it for you. The only limitation is that it is currently only offered in Gallon Kits. It is a great product, though. I really like it. Maybe we can get some sponsors to work on Flex Coat to get it in the smaller kits? Bill
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Aloha Jesse - I am a devoted kayak fisherman on the Gulf Coat. My personal best from the yak is a 9'2" Great Hammerhead caught and released from the yak off the beach in Fort Morgan, AL. There is no thrill like it anywhere. You are gonna love it. I'm going to try to answer the questions you asked and maybe throw in a few things you haven't thought about yet in the hopes it will help y
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Hello Michael - Glad you read the article. Since I'm the author I'm happy to answer. I can say this with confidence - it does not deteriorate the physical characteristics of Flex Coat Original High Build (or the newer Flex Coat SCS High Build). I even reviewed the article with Roger Seiders at Flex Coat to make sure he was okay with us running it and he said have at it. I have many rod
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Hello Joe - I'm out of the shop and can't measure for you but Angler's Research / Fuji (sponsor at left) probably has the dimensions on their website. Also there are some sponsors at left who sell split grips in cork or EVA to fit the ECSM - Swampland, Rod Room, and Mudhole have them for sure. Others probably do as well. In my experience you can call any of the sponsors and tell them
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Thanks, Jim. The complexity is worth it - they are unbelievable components. I think these things are going to fly off the shelves. I just hope the first several dozen fly to me in Alabama. I can tell you for sure that the lock nut WORKS. It is not simply a second nut like on a fly reel seat..it really locks things down in both directions. It is very secure. I didn't really see the need
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Hello All - Trying to track some some Fuji TVSD17 seats and and the related locking nuts / paraphernalia that is IN STOCK in the US at this time. Does anybody have any? Thanks! Bill
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I use them both a lot and you can't go wrong. The notable thing to me is what Gary mentioned - a 17 VSS feels about like a 16 IPS. A 16 VSS is pretty slim...a bit too small for my hand for all day use. Kind of like the old size 16 NPS seats. But they are very light and a lot of people like them in UL spinning rods. And while both can be used either UL or DL, to me the VSS is really more fle
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Should work great. If you search the photo page you can find some examples of these types of handles that may inspire / assist you. At risk of being a homer, there is nothing Jann's can get you that the sponsors at left can't get. Check out their total prices with shipping and you may find a win / win.... Good luck and post some pics when you are done!
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DBlue fishing - who is a sponsor at left and I believe attending the ICRBE - has several seats like the ones you are seeking. I will post a pic of a few I have on hand on the photo page...the left is a spinning type seat and the right is a fly type seat. Hope this helps. Bill
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Forgive the simple cave man logic here, but if your eyes are good simple reading glasses or 'cheaters' blow things up significantly for fine detail work. Try 1.5+ to start and see what you think. I usually pay less than $3 a pair at Walmart. I don't need them to read but they are like a big screen HD TV for tying flies or building rods.
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Hello Roger - Not sure which supplies you are unable to get but am happy to try to help. The only place for the molds I am aware of is Riley Rods. Those are the molds I use for all of my grips since they are so fast. You also use / waste less foam if you are making a bunch of grips because you don't lose all the material in the 'corners' like you do when you turn down a blank that is square
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Fly Fishing & Fly Tying Magazine, a leading British fly fishing publication, recently reviewed the Mill Tackle 9' #5 4-piece fly rod. I thought I would share it with this community at Tom's suggestion since I build these grips for John Miller using the techniques I learned in RodMaker. I have posted an image of the write up in the photo gallery: It looks as if these carbon fiber grip
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Thanks for help guys. Lance Dupre at Swampland still has them in most sizes. Or had them...thanks!
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Hello All - Apologies if this belongs more in the buy/sell, but I am trying to track down any remaining stock of TK mandrels. I am seeking the plain (non-threaded) variety in the 14" length in 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" diameter (in descending order of preference). I know lots of other mandrels are available but I'm looking for these particular mandrels. Would be willing to
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We've all been there...makes you sick when it happens. But it is recoverable. In terms of prevention, you are on the right track. A couple of layers of masking tape with the last layer reversed (so it is sticky side out) works well. A rubber band wrapped several times around the gimbal will also help give the chuck something to grab. Often when I have had this problem, I had a leveli
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Don, do you have to be present to win? Just found out I will be at my son's State Cup soccer tournament and unable to attend the expo. But I still have the rod...
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The Seeker P704 is an awesome blank if you can get one...literally got my hands on one since this thread started.
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The Mirrodine - especially the 18MR18 Heavy Dine - is a spectacular bait. I am building a bunch of rods for that specific bait right now. I like the MHX P843-MHX best with the St. Croix 3S70MLF and Batson XP843 a close second. The Batson IP843 is also very good for the money. Any quality 7' popping rod in a 3 or 4 power will work, but a slightly faster tip helps with the casting distance i
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Jim - Does Central Alabama quality? If so then count me in from Birmingham. Not sure I can make a Thursday night coming from Birmingham but would love to participate however I can. Thanks! Bill Falconer Falconer Custom Rods Birmingham, AL
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Jan - I have had very consistent success with the Linzer 8505-1 brushes. Hope that helps.
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Tim - Sorry for your troubles. Makes me sick just to hear about it. The first thing i would do is have them tell me and show me - in detail - exactly what they did to 'test' the rod. Sometimes just by making them tell the story three times it will change and turn in to a mea culpa. I know that sounds cynical but it often works. Just saying... I would then very carefully inspect the bla
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Doug - I have never done what you are trying to do, but I think there are some good points raised. First is the one made by Phil - I don't think even a hardened steel mandrel at that small of a diameter would work...even if kept short. Even a 1/4" hardened, oiled drill rod flexes noticeably. So you are probably going to need a larger mandrel. Then you need to figure out how to shi
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Have to go with Tom on this one. The West Systems epoxy you are considering will yellow. In addition, it cures very hard and rigid. I think this is good for carbon fiber handles. But for guide wrap finish I would tell you it is no bueno.
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While you are it, add the option of a light duty, hand-tightening jacobs chuck OR the usual three jaw or dryer chuck. What works great for rod butt may not do the trick with carbon fiber grips (also best finished at speed IMHO) being turned on a 3/8" mandrel 18" long. Better yet, make them interchangeable.
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That's exactly what I had Roger build for me and it is AWESOME. I apply at 200 RPM and dry at about 9 RPM. And you don't have to switch from one machine to another to dry, either. If you have never applied finish under power it is worth experimenting with. A lot of things get easier at high speed.
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