The butt of a stand up tuna rod I am building fell out of the dryer chuck last night. I had it taped up too. The finish on one guide wrap got messed up when the rod shifted and the finish came in contact with the rollers on the rod support stand. The finish was still tacky this morning and it was the first coat. What would you guys suggest?

Thanks,
Joe

Finish usually sets up not tacky in about 6 - 7 hours Are you mixing correctly
IF it is not bad you may be able to sand When Dry and cover with another coat

Bill - willierods.com

If the finish on that guide is not too far out of whack, I would allow it to set for another day, then shave off any obvious imperfections and recoat. It will be easier to shave if the finish has just a little "body" to it.

.....................

Thanks Guys.....It had set for just about 7 hrs before this happened....I had left some left over material in the dish which just felt a tiny bit tacky this morning...took my fingerprint when I touched it .I am pretty comfortable that I mixed it ok.

The affected area needs to come off....it completely obscures a gold trim band on a black rod....only the trim band was messed up though.

I was looking for advice on how/when to do it and I think Tom answered that for me.

I also learned to put tape on the aluminum gimbal before putting it in the chuck to give the jaws something to bite into!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/04/2015 11:00AM by Joe Willsen.

We've all been there...makes you sick when it happens. But it is recoverable.

In terms of prevention, you are on the right track. A couple of layers of masking tape with the last layer reversed (so it is sticky side out) works well. A rubber band wrapped several times around the gimbal will also help give the chuck something to grab.

Often when I have had this problem, I had a leveling / alingment problem as well. Not to state the obvious but make sure the rod is level and that the butt and all suppors are aligned straight as well. In my experience any kind of misalignment - or warp in a not-straight blank - helps the blank 'walk' out of the chuck. And for whatever reason, it often happens more than once with the same blank. SO BE EXTRA CAREFUL NEXT TIME WITH THE SAME ROD.

As bad as the finish looks now, it can be cut as Tom suggests or sanded as Bill suggests. You need to use your judgement on what will remove the right amount of finish without damaging the thread underneath. You can also scuff the affected area with ScotchBrite to remove minor imperfections. It will look really rough and opaque when you are done but will magically look clear - and all sanding and cut marks will disappear - when you add another coat over the top. Just make sure you blow or brush away all sanding residue and take care not to contaminate the area before you put on the next coat.

There was a really good article on this in RodMaker in a past issue focused on repairing non-level finish on a butt wrap. Can't remember the volume and issue numbers but maybe someone can bail me out. I hope this helps...good luck!

You guys are awesome. I learn something every time I log on .

There are lugs on the tops of the jaws of my dryer chuck and a lock-nut on the back.
After I tighten the lock-nut behind the chuck, I wrap a rubber band from one lug, around the rod handle and back..
I used to use three rubber bands, but find one is actually good enough to keep the handle, or blank, from creeping out of the jaws.

I have been using this chuck for years - [www.rodbuilding.org] never had a rod fall out two bands for light rods and four for heavy stuff Just check the bands for cuts or rips

Bill - willierods.com

Bill,

I've never seen a chuck like that, where did it come from?

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

Garry Thornton Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> There are lugs on the tops of the jaws of my dryer
> chuck and a lock-nut on the back.
> After I tighten the lock-nut behind the chuck, I
> wrap a rubber band from one lug, around the rod
> handle and back..
> I used to use three rubber bands, but find one is
> actually good enough to keep the handle, or blank,
> from creeping out of the jaws.

Gary.....I tightened the lock nut...then with the dryer motor running I apply masking tape to the rod...get a full wrap....run it up over the jaws....full wrap....then back down onto the rod. It wasn't enough this time as this is a heavy rod. I will know better next time though.

Gentlemen

This is the kind of thing that never happens with our proven and easy to use Flex Coat Self Adjusting Chucks. Now available in two sizes 5/16" and 13/16", custom sizes available upon request. Works so well others have copied it, but not duplicated. So easy to use, no locking screws and rubber bands, just push the rod in and walk away.

Check out our video at the link below:

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Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

Neat chuck. Would love to handle one at the Expo later this month.

John,

I have 2 of your chucks and use them for both dying and hand wrapping. But because it is a slip chuck I find it doesn't work very well if I'm power wrapping. i liked the one in Bill's photo because it looks like it would keep the blank from walking when the lathe is turning at faster speeds.

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

Steve

I believe you are referring to our Slip Clutch which is not intended for use with anything but finishing. It wouldn't make sense to put this on a power wrapping motor because it is a slip clutch and there would be no tension on your thread.

The Self Adjusting Chuck is used on power wrappers as well as finishing and curing motors.

We use this on both our power wrapper models, DL713 and DL747, with great success. Our power wrapper with built in foot control ramps from slow RPM's to very fast and we have never had any problems with "walking" or anything.

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

Since the finish is messed up on a guide, the very best solution is to take off everything in the area, and retie and retrim and refinish.

I have never been a fan of trying to clean up a bunch of finish that has gotten messed up. It is very difficult to get a messed up finish perfect again without stripping and starting over for that guide.

The flex coat chucks are about as fool proof as a chuck can be. I have never heard of a rod coming out of a flex coat chuck during a dry cycle.

Good luck