Jerry - I had forgotten about Nick and Breakaway. The Cannon is worth looking into - thank you.
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Jerry - I had forgotten about Nick and Breakaway. The Cannon is worth looking into - thank you.
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Hey Jay - The wind-ons will work well. You can also go with hollow core braid and insert your fluoro straight into it and simply serve the connection. If you are on a long range boat, you have a spot to work and access to your tackle bag. The way we are doing it dry space you can access is at a premium. I love the wind on and served connections, but find them hard to service and redo out o
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I'm with you, Michael. The FG works.
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Hello Jay - This is my current favorite style of fishing! Recently came back from doing this for four days offshore out of Venice, LA. Two of those days we caught our limits on poppers and nothing beats it for excitement. A 60# YFT will punish you on that long spinning rod but I love it. I actually caught most of my fish on an OTI-3206-768 and that rig was not too heavy for fish in the
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Not to open this back up again but I was thinking the same thing. Not all fluorocarbons are created equal. I have had much better luck with the dedicated leader material products than the stuff sold as running line for spooling reels. For example, the Vanish sold on large spools for filling reels is NOT the same as the Vanish sold as leader material on 25 meter spools. My experience is th
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Miles - I'm a knot / rigging junkie and have spent a lot of time trying to figure this out as braid to fluoro is what I fish most of the time both saltwater and freshwater. I know it is overkill for some but I have pulled a lot of knots to failure with a good scale and all of my experience doing that zeroed me in on the best knots based on actual wet and dry breaking strength. These may be o
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Happy belated Birthday, Tom. Thanks for all you do!
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Thanks, Lou. I am very familiar with those types as well. Just trying to answer customer requests for something different.
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You feel my pain. If you use these things all the time every trip out, it is worth figuring out a better solution. After leaving a message with Sea Guide, I immediately received a call back from I spoke to the Sales Manager (Russ). They do not currently import these components, but he had a few samples he could share. I'll let you know how they turn out. They currently manufacture severa
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Hello John - I guess I am looking for both. What I want to be able to do is reel the entire sabiki rig into the rod but have the weight stop at the tip so you don't catch yourself when you walk past your vertical rod holders and brush into the sabiki rods. Which happens approximately 100 times an hour. I think the sizes the offer will work for smaller sabiki rigs we use most of the time
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Bob, that is exactly what I am looking for - any idea how to get them? Have emailed Jim Ising also - thanks Billy.
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Hello All - Turning to the forum for help as I am stumped. Anyone know where I can purchase sabiki tip tops? I'm seeking the inner-line type hollow tip tops or ceramic 'cones' that mount on the end of a blank for specifically this purpose. For what it's worth, I am totally familiar with the various cheap Sabiki rods (PVC, etc.). I also understand you can simply use a regular guides outs
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I think Russell nailed it - RCLB70ML or even RCLB70L for a 7' set up. For 6'6" I love the MHX Saltwater SW66H - excellent blank for what you are doing. Both also double as light bottom rods very well if spooled with braid and a mono / fluoro topshot. At risk of answering a different question than you asked, it seems crazy to me to put rollers on a 30# rod used for light duty like yo
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Well, the above took the words right out of my mouth. I like all of the above, but for light cranks the 3C66MM is best of breed for my tastes. Also perfect for really small topwaters like Lucky Craft Sammy 65s and Gunfish 75s.
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Bill, I routinely do the Freeze Frame finishing method for repairs and get a great looking finish in one heavy coat. It is not completely advisable (read counter to the manufacturer's recommendations) to fish the next day, but I have done it several times with no problems.
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Arthur - I have the PB701MLF, PB701MHF, and PB731MXF. What you are saying is true on all three of these blanks - very little taper in the handle section. Not sure about the others.
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I was in Orange Beach in June and dropped by the Rod Room to say hello to Kathy and the girls. They had just gotten some of these blanks. I bought three of them and while it has only been two months I am blown away. Definitely a horse of a different color...the weight, balance and action are spectacular. Time will tell on durability but definitely the most 'next generation' blank from a pe
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At risk of being controversial...there is another way to look at this issue / topic. I mean no offense but want to encourage a different perspective. I vividly remember discussing pricing with Tom Kirkman at a Rod Builder's Guild Conclave in Nashville some years back. I was basically apologizing for my pricing and slightly embarrassed what I was asking - and getting - for my work. Tom aske
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For what it is worth...I recently built a rod for Yellowfin Tuna in the 100# class. So far it has been a shark rod. But a back bouncing blank is a shockingly castable tool - more than enough for anything I've encountered yet - and has beaten sharks to 8' with ease. I think it goes without saying but regardless of your rod you better have the right reel. Honestly can't remember if it was a
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I recently had the good fortune of winning a Facebook contest and scoring a Batson Revelation fly blank (and some very cool Team Rainshadow swag!) for free. I had my choice of the entire Revelation fly line up and I chose the 9' 4-piece #8. Granted I have only test cast the blank to test guide set up, but I am very, very impressed with the blank so far. Has plenty of muscle for both casting an
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I had the pleasure of touring the Lamiglas facility a few times more than a decade ago. He was a very nice man and always had time to teach and inform. He will be missed.
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RodBond will work great. Be advised that many of the rubber butt plugs come out of the mold dirty. It is a good idea to wipe them down with a clean rag wetted with a mild solvent (I use IPA). You may be surprised how much gunk comes off. Once it is clean, prep the surface you are bonding it to (blank or grip) be water break free and you are good to go.
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They are already here and they are awesome...available in size 16 and size 17. I especially like the ones with the Back Stop lock nut. Very light, very comfortable seats. And the PTS casting seats may be even better. Really the first new thing in a casting seat since the ALPS Tex Touch and MVT in my opinion.
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Turned out really nice. Good job...really like the color combo with the abalone. IMHO...too bad you didn't try the spiral. I think you'd find it works very well from the yak in ANY weight class...not just lighter fish and lighter rods. Interesting that you came to the conclusion that it wouldn't work without having used one.
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If you have an impulse sealer (I use one to package rods and carbon fiber grips) it does a dandy job.
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I guess a lot of this is subjective, but as Joe mentions I really like the Batson CB series. I have had good luck with the CB70MH and CB70H blanks for the application you are describing. I think you would be pleased if you tried one. You can easily trim 6" off the butt of these blanks to get 6'6" overall length. And they are an incredible value...definitely the least expensive I can
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Honestly depends on the seat and tube you are using. I was talking about fabricating your own custom handle using carbon fiber sleeving and a urethane foam core. Best bet is to get with one of the suppliers / sponsors at left. Get on the phone with them and tell them what you want to build. They can walk you through what you need and your choices that best fit your build.
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Larry, I have built them both with split grips and with more traditional handle configurations. For balance purposes. you want a pretty long rear grip in my experience. So, the front hood of the reel seat is probably about 18" - 21" from the butt of the rod. But that may be too long for some...it is what worked well for me. If you are new at this and figuring it out, you might b
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I used to build a lot of long spinning rods on fly blanks. These were used for float and fly with microjigs under a clear float for trout or for the Statech Spinfly line (which was an awesome tool for non-fly fishernen looking to fly fish). I built them all with single foot ceramic guides and as long as you use the right number you will not have any problems with the weight impacting the blank.
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