I thought this would have come up sooner, but since it has not, let me ask: Doesn't the "freeze frame" method of wrap finishing featured in the magazine last issue have high risk for deteriorating the physical characteristics of the wrapping epoxy? I remember a previous article warning about the dangers of excessive heat making the epoxy less flexible. It seems to me that the "freeze frame" method would be right on the edge of doing that, or over the edge. What am I missing?

It doesn't require anywhere near that much heat. Certainly not the same as those who use a torch to flame finish.

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Hello Michael -

Glad you read the article. Since I'm the author I'm happy to answer. I can say this with confidence - it does not deteriorate the physical characteristics of Flex Coat Original High Build (or the newer Flex Coat SCS High Build). I even reviewed the article with Roger Seiders at Flex Coat to make sure he was okay with us running it and he said have at it.

I have many rods that have been in service for going on two decades. If I handed you two rods - one finished normally and one with the freeze frame technique - you could not tell the difference. And this is even under magnification and after prolonged periods of hard saltwater use. So while your question and concern is a totally reasonable one, the short answer is no - it does not deteriorate the properties.

You should always follow the manufacturer recommendations for any product. If you speak to the manufacturer of your particular finish, you may find that flaming or heat could deteriorate the physicial characteristics. If so, don't do it.

If you try to flame some finishes - like Permagloss - you will find them to be extremely flammable. So, it is not a good idea for all products.

And you can also "over do" anything. Too much heat applied to the guide wrap can melt the blank, burn the thread, burn the finish, etc. But that is not what we are talking about. Just a momentary application of heat to warm the finish enough to get it flowing is plenty. If you try it, I think you'll find that it is less heat than you may be imagining. And most are very satisfied with the results.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/11/2015 02:26PM by Bill Falconer.

Bill
Who is carring this new flexcoat SCS high build finish ??
Thanks

Bill - willierods.com

Hello Bill -

I got mine directly from Flex Coat. Any of the sponsors at left who carry Flex Coat can get it for you. The only limitation is that it is currently only offered in Gallon Kits.

It is a great product, though. I really like it. Maybe we can get some sponsors to work on Flex Coat to get it in the smaller kits?

Bill

I have been using there UV and find it pretty darn good And clear in the cup
Sure don't need a gallon of finish Maybe over time they will get smaller containers
Thanks for the info

Bill - willierods.com

Why would anyone want to flame Perma-gloss?

Some people tend to jump first and ask questions later. They hear something about "flaming finish" and just assume it's something you're supposed to do and that all finishes are, well... finishes. Welcome to the age of internet information.

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Thanks, Bill, appreciate your response. Will have to give it a try.

I interpreted the article incorrectly, that there was more heat involved.

My response was for Randy pertaining to why anyone would flame PermaGloss. Believe it or not, they do.

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Tom, I am sure they do!! I have never used anything but a couple of desk lamps in cold weather for over 40 years and have never seen a need for flaming anything. Too many people now days are in too much of a hurry.. " The faster I go, the behinder I get" !!

I don't think you guys are keeping an open mind. There could be a good reason to flame Permagloss. It would just need to be something like...you hate the way you look with eyebrows.

I don't think you guys are keeping an open mind. There could be a good reason to flame Permagloss. It would just need to be something like...you hate the way you look with eyebrows.

In all seriousness, I use a disposable butane lighter when I freeze fame finish. I keep it moving constantly back and forth about 2" - 3" under the rod while also rotating the rod constantly. I keep one finger on my rod rotating hand (left hand for me) extended over the guide wrap I am working on. This helps me feel how much heat I am putting on the wrap. And it is never enough to make me move my finger.

The lighter never stops moving and the flame never comes closer than 1.5" to 2" from the wrap. Just read the instructions a few times carefully and give it a try on a scrap blank. It is really much easier than it sounds once you try it.

Thanks for the laugh Bill. The eyebrow joke is classic.