Charlie Visek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Lance, any issues with guide bonding with finish > over CP? > > Phil, thanks, I'll do a display piece with what I > have. No Charlie, not yet. I do make it a habit of cleaning the the rod blank with Denatured Alcohol or Acetone prior to wrapping. I have repaired some of my rods where the guide
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I have had NCP thread get dark spots in it, so now I use CP on anything I don't want to be translucent, NCP or not. The CP also helps set the guide position after final adjustments (makes it harder to move).
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Chuck Mills Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Change seats or buy a lathe and turn your own. I > think those seats were born for JDM bass rods. X2. It is not that difficult to turn your own. It is a good seat and very light. I never had one fail.
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The Point Blank blanks are some of the most unique designed blanks I have seen in a while although they are made in China. They are also some of the best casting and spinning rods I have ever used. The Eternity series appears to have changed for the better without the gloss coat. I have not seen nor handled this new series of blanks made in the US. I think it is going to be hard to beat Point Bla
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The reel seat needs to be light but well machined so the threads will not strip. These are the ones I like: Batson R3104 ALPS RA7WL2 Window Fly Seats. Recoil RSLS and SeaGuide TiFS.
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I did it to an eight weight TFO BVK blank with a two piece Titanium Alloy fly reel seat I got from a guy that makes them in Finland. It was actually just a reel seat without the wood insert. At the time he was the only one I could find that did it in Titanium alloy. The seat pieces were heavier than aluminum would have been because it was not solid Titanium but rather a mix of Ti, Chrome and Nick
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The smaller guides give the rod a lighter and more > responsive feel, and they cast like a dream. In my > opinion, the KR micro guide spinning concept is a > real performance enhancer. There are a number of > people on this forum who consider a size 5 or 4.5 > runner as gigantic! If you go with
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Herb, Is that what they do? I was wondering why my grip was so close to the decal. I use the blank for the butt piece. Thanks that was bothering me. I have always attached the butt piece to the butt of the blank. The only thing that is not fully attached is the very rear cork ring that will be rubberized cork, burl or EVA but the it is still partially set into it. Thanks, Lance
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As stated earlier most of them come with a decal or the decal is on them, some are silk screened. In many cases the silk screened logo can be removed with acetone. On some blanks the manufacturer will put a finish coating over the decal. Sometimes you can remove the finish on a corner of the decal and remove it, but by doing this it will mess up the finish and you will have to sand and re-apply a
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In my haste to make a point with the guide placement I made a mistake regarding the placement of the first guide that sits at 180°. I meant to say that it should be placed about 1" (toward the reel) from the mark that is 3" from the arc. To me the most important factor is to keep the line as straight as possible through the transition. A shorter rod will require the first stripper guide
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I wish I could. LOL
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This is how I do it and it can be applied to conventional wrapped rods also. It helps resolve the question of guide spacing. Bend the blank to 90° and mark the top of the arc. Mark about 3 inches behind the "arc" mark toward the reel seat. This is where you want your line to be under the rod at 180° by. Mount the reel you are going to use and tape the line about 1" before the &
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Roger, You are the man. The DC allows you to do reverse. You made my day, I had already thought of that but now I see someone doing it. You have inspired me. Thank You Sir I may PM sometime. Lance
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I know this same subject has come up plenty of times but in my opinion cutting the butt or the tip or both will slow the rod down. As HL said cutting the tip will "add power" but slow it down cutting the butt will take power and still slow it down. Blanks without a gloss coat or have a sanded finish are more sensitive than those with a finish. Gloss coats and paint dampen vibration and
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I have been worried about this since I had first started using them. I used to make surfboards and the core of the board was made with a polyurethane foam (closed cell) that was shaped then glassed using 4 or 6 oz fiberglass cloth and polyester resin. When a surfboard gets a ding or damage to the fiberglass coating it allows water to get in and over time the foam begins to break down or rot. The
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I see they are a sponsor on this site and would like to know if anyone is using them on their builds. They look like a good alternative for Ti framed guides, other than the usual suspects. The guide height and frames for the spinning guides look like the real deal and the casting guides also look like they would work for my kind of builds. The only thing I can see is the immediate frame near the
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I recently built a spinning rod on the Phenix K2 Blank rated for 3-10LBS line and really like the way it cast with a Penn Conflict 2500. They make a 7'6" version that will fit the build you are doing but it is very pricey at $250.00. It is model: TX-763ML-S. If your client likes top end and is willing to pay I would go with Fuji Torzite High Frame K guides. Very light and you can get the app
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My wife made me take my surfboards out of the bedroom and put them in garage. I should of put her in the garage instead. That's were I do my rods now and use a space heater to warm it up like I am doing tonight. I can write stuff like this because it can't be seen on Victoria's Secret site or any other shopping site for that matter and she would never look at this one. Oh I hear her coming, gotta
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All Stainless Steel guides will corrode in saltwater. If the rod is for fresh water I would not worry about it. The difference in 304 and 316 in ambient environments will not be noticed. 316 has a slightly higher nickle content with the addition of molybdenum that is not in 304. If you where to heat the guides up to 180F to 200F the 316 would be less susceptible to stress corrosion chloride crack
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You will get much more detailed help if you > provide real detail on what you are observing. > There are many ways that epoxy can be less than > even and smooth. > > Look at the library article about epoxy. > > Having to use two coats of epoxy to get it smooth > and even is not u
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This is an inherent problem with micro guides on casting rods, the line touching the blank due to guide height. Although conventional set ups using casting guides with taller frames will still touch the rod at extreme bends between 45° and 90°. I would not worry too much about the line touching at these extreme angles. On a 7' rod I would use 10 guides plus a tip top in a spiral configuration wit
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You can also look at the Fuji Ti framed Alconites or if you really want "High End" the Torzite ring. All Torzite ring guides are titanium frames. Also Kigan offers Ti Framed guides, they are used on St Croix rods.
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I usually limit my cuts to 4" or less. Any more than that you will change the action of the blank drastically unless that’s what you want to do, slow it down.
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The stripper guides help control the line as it leaves the reel , some call it taming. The first stripper guide needs to be small enough to control the loops or waves in the line during casting but not so small that the line slaps the face of the guide or ring causing it (the line) to slow down. The second stripper is a reduction guide that "tames" the line even more or reduces the wave
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If he is reaming with just one type or diameter of reamer he needs to constantly rotate it as he reams. Otherwise use a graduated reamer set up as Tom said. You can do it faster with it mounted on a drill but you will also still have to rotate it. As he does it he needs to look for uneven areas and apply more pressure as needed on those areas. The linear hole through the grip needs to be conical,
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Had the same thing happen on a Tiger next to the winding check but I believe it was air trapped under the check. I fixed it but it was very discouraging.
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Tom/Bill, How many guides (total) are you using? I have an idea of what I am going to use but I would like to know what you believe to work best. I am not using Sage's running guide set up and I already came up with a spacing that will work. I do however like the stripper guides set up they recommend but with a different spacing.
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Like Bill I used 7s on my 10wt. Which Sage blank > are you building? Sage One 9' and I traded in the Fuji SIC Ti L 6s for 7s on Bill's advice. I originally thought that a 6 would be sufficient because my loop leader connections would go through them but when I began to think about a small line tangle, I re
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I am building a Sage 9' 10wt 4pc rod and will be using 12 Fuji KW 20, KW 12, L 8 and nine more L 6 running guides with a 6 Arowana Tip Top. These are titanium frames and a mix of Torzite and SIC rings. The Torzite has a bit larger ring diameter so I am using them on the 1st stripper and the TT. i am pretty much set on the ring sizes but am wondering on the Guide height of the runners and the chok
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A lot of good fly rod/blank companies will replace the tip for free if you break it, but of course if you break it out in the middle of nowhere you don't have a replacement.
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