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Pages: 12345...LastNext
Current Page: 1 of 21
Results 1 - 30 of 622
Today
Lance Schreckenbach
If you want white on clear labels here is a solution. I have an older version that uses the same cartridge. I also had some made from Decal Connection and another source by my house. / /
Forum: rodboard
Today
Lance Schreckenbach
Sensitive / adjective 1. quick to detect or respond to slight changes, signals, or influences. Direct contact real seats that are sized to the blank are going to be more sensitive than a seat with a foam core. I believe a baitcaster type rod is going to be more sensitive than a spinning because you are always in direct contact with the reel and the seat at the same time whereas with a spinn
Forum: rodboard
Yesterday
Lance Schreckenbach
Scott, Put epoxy down first on the area where the decal is going and let it harden (usually about 8 hours). Apply the decal and put 2 coats of CP over it, making sure to cover the edges. The method I use to apply epoxy on long areas is to load the brush and make linear strokes from one end to the other in a brush width of the radius and then turn the blank and repeat with a slight overlap of the
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I think this is what you may like: North Fork Composites P 703-1 (HM / LMX) Medium Light Power and Fast Action. The price displayed is the retail price of the blank so once you put it in your cart it will give you the wholesale price.
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I travel a lot and need a light pair of wading boots for my bag. The Soft Science Terrafin lace up wading boot is very light with a Trileon sole that really clings to slippery rocks without cleats or felt. They also dry faster than any boot I have ever owned. I have used them from Patagonia to Wyoming. I fish a lot of saltwater at home and use the Soft Science Fin fishing zip up boot an sandy b
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
The correct way to finish sand EVA is with a Scotch Brite type fine sanding pads like 3M Ultra Fine sanding pads. These are only to give it that correct finish that looks right and not to shape. Use them after the regular 220 grit. Also use a light touch with EVA because it can overheat and begin melt when shaping.
Forum: rodboard
10 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Fastest speed is best for soft cork and a light touch. You tend to dig into it when it is turning slow.
Forum: rodboard
10 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I taught my daughters to fly cast at 4 and 6. It was pretty funny giving them spinning rods when they were your grandchildren's age and watching them strip off line and try to cast, Now whenever I ask them if they want to go fishing they tell me "only if it's not fly fishing". Don't worry those kids will be able to cast a spinning rod and reel pretty quick.
Forum: rodboard
15 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
This is on the Sage Rod building site. I have found that manufactures spacing is very good if followed correctly, even if it is a little generic. You will need to enter the blank Family in a drop down menu then the model number in another drop down menu and it will bring up the recommended guide spacing.
Forum: rodboard
17 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Painting the blank will slow it down a little and take away from the sensitivity. The most sensitive a blank can be is no coating and just finish sanded. Don't hurt the blanks feelings, don't paint it. It will never be the same.
Forum: rodboard
17 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
As Norm stated burl and rubberized cork is heavier. Natural cork is the lightest material of any.
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
OK, replace bumper guide with rub prevention guide, of course a while back you were calling it a bumper guide when others were calling it a transition guide. Whatever we call it, we seem to know what it is. I do not like a simple spiral on a rod longer than 6'6". My thought is that if I can get the 1st 180 degree guide behind the major arc of the rod then the rod will work better for fightin
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I always use tape to build up the diameter of the mandrel then slip firmly the cork on. They have little cork plugs to to put in the hole at the center of the cork at the butt. A lot of times it's hard to find different types of cork without a hole, so this works fine. To do butts I will extend the mandrel from the chuck slightly longer than the butt piece. I will build up the end of the mandrel
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I take rubberized cork down to about 3/16" to a 1/8" in thickness to give my fore grips on some rods a truly custom look. The rubberized cork is a much tougher and does not have the voids or flaws of natural cork. You can also go down fairly thin with burl rings.
Forum: rodboard
23 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Keith Langford Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The rod I just built is working great and i really > like it so far with the limited use, when I built > this I used a KT 10 and after that 3 KB 5 for the > 60, 120 180 positions and KT 5 for the rest of the > guides. My question is would it perform better if > I used a KT 5.5 for the 60 degre
Forum: rodboard
25 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Its all about feel and quality. What I used to think was a great feeling rod 20-30 years ago does not feel as good to me as the ones I make now. The technology is going to change but the feeling is still going to be important even if that changes. Great post.
Forum: rodboard
25 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I use a 5 minute high viscosity (thin) epoxy to glue my rings up with. Never had any problems with water or separation. After a couple of hours you can start turning. I also turn on the highest speed of my lathe and use a medium course bastard file with a flat side and a half round on the other side to shape with. When I get it close I use 100 grit sandpaper to bring it closer, then 225 grit and
Forum: rodboard
25 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I would go with Fuji KL-H but I don't think the Micro Wave set would be bad either. The Micro Wave sets work very good and are easier to set up. I do know of some test that were done of the two different guide set ups on the same blank, real seat and grips. The Fuji set up cast slightly farther on average by about 3' to 6', that in my opinion, is not enough to mater. It was 100 cast of each with
Forum: rodboard
25 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
And. I guess you want to know if that would be good. What fish are you going after?
Forum: rodboard
4 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I believe for a long surf rod it would not hurt but it is not necessary. On the guide feet you may need to file or sand down the tips to make an easy ramp for the thread to move up to. As Michael said with the wraps; you can also do 4 or 5 up the foot past the transition and slide them back. I do this all the time to get the thread in the right place without bunching up.
Forum: rodboard
4 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I would not cut more than 4" of the butt. You will loose some weight because the butt is the heaviest part of the blank. If you are trying to get it to the 1.52 oz then most likely about 2" would be enough. When you trim a blank it will slow the action down but it does not necessarily make it a bad thing. I believe a slower blank is better for lines like braid that do not stretch as muc
Forum: rodboard
4 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
What kind of rod are you building (spinning-baitcaster) and what kind of fish do you plan on catching? Will it be used in saltwater also?
Forum: rodboard
4 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
X2 with Norman. Can't do it much better than that.
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Make sure you put masking tape around the blank where it is going to be cut, that way it won't splinter. You can cut it with just about anything then, including a hacksaw. I usually use a Dremel with a diamond cutting wheel. Was going to get what Roger is using but just didn't get around to it.
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
This rod is about 65 years old and if in very good condition could most likely get about $300. If degraded with a missing guide or two and wrapping coming apart, about $75. Good luck.
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > For myself, If using a ferrule and making a 2 > piece rod and wishing for the shortest overall > length, the answer is simple. > Put the ferrule in the dead center of the rod > blank and then you will have the shortest two > piece rod that you can have because each 1/2 will > be equal to t
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Roger is spot on and has all the coolest wrapping equipment. I do a lot of micro guide rods and have done many with D size, I do prefer the A size because I can get a few more wraps with it and it makes a smaller locking wrap. I have tried head mounted magnifiers but they are a little uncomfortable for me so I have a couple of the lighted round lens type mounted on either end of my work table.
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Just tell me what you want the rod to do and how it will be used. I can usually figure out the rest. Most of my customers don't know jack about components but know brand names and how this brand and model performed for them. We go from there. I used to shape surfboards but the only problem with a fishing rod is that you can not shape the "magic" into it. It is much easier, just put the
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
David, I personally think you will like the NFC blanks and because of the discount given they are half the price of a Sage in the equivalent model. Lance
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Cool.
Forum: rodboard
Pages: 12345...LastNext
Current Page: 1 of 21

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