Great job. It looks really good.
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Just an explanation of why. On smaller guides like 4mm or 4.5mm I like to go up 1/2 size to help any knot from hanging up at the tip and assist the more free passage of knots. I have not seen a difference in casting or catching. I think 5mm is sufficient for just about any knot with line up to 30lbs braid. The Fuji RV 6 was first only introduced in this size and recommended for "KR concept M
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The spacing on the worksheet works fine. I just try to keep my line as straight as I can going through from top to bottom.
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Size 16 & 12 strippers size 4 or 5 single foot the > rest of the way. That is my configuration for my > 9' 8wt, I used the 4's. X2
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The set up I would use (and I have many times) would be all Fuji your choice RV 6 or KW 6 followed by a KB 5 then (4) KB 4 or KB 4.5s and (3) KT 4 or 4.5s near the tip, nine total and a tip top that is a half size larger than your smallest ring size. example; 4mm running guide with a 4.5mm tip top. There is no reason to step the guides down after your striping guides, I just use 3 different sized
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This may help you. It is a free guide spacing worksheet. Not sure if the administrator will allow this because they are not a sponsor, but you most likely will use one of the vendors to the left to buy the parts that you will need when this worksheet helps you out......Well they are not going to let me post this, so do a search for what you are looking for using your description for what you want
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I have been building rods since 1989 starting with fly rods and later progressing (maybe digressing) to conventional casting and spinning rods. I usually build for near shore and inshore saltwater species. I have built a few fresh water trout fly rods but only down to a 5wt. My brother has been wanting a 9' 3wt because he says it will do a better roll cast at that length for the rivers he fishes
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Steve Monroe Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > In my experience the coating peels off after about > a year of use. X2 It wears off. The automobile type painted reel seats are much more durable if you need a coating.
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I put my guide closest to the reel at o degrees without an offset. I do however angle the foot toward the next guide. I also do like the spiral to go to the left on a right hand caster although I don't think it matters. I create a choke point on the rod where the line will cross the blank behind the most critical bend of the rod at 45 degrees. This will be just behind the 3rd guide that is below
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Maybe obvious, but you may want to look into fly rod blanks and resort to fly fishing or make them into high end spinning rods. There are plenty of combinations of pieces and lengths. They also use some of the most advanced materials for construction.
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Outstanding template, a bit wider at the but with a soft tip. These blanks will make a rod that will launch a lure. Thin wall and High Modulus Graphite at a reasonable price. You will not regret it. They really don't compare to a Loomis due to the difference in the template although both have a somewhat larger but. It is a good difference.
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By using single foot guides you are only wrapping once instead of twice like for double foot snake guides. The length of the wire and the material of a double foot snake guide may actually by itself weight more than the Minima guide.
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The finished rod with the reel and line should balance just in front of the reel where the fore grip is. It should be easy to flip / pivot forward and backward in the casting position. This balance point is more noticeable on Fly Rods due to the amount of casting and the casting of the line and not the weight of the lure. If the rod does not balance in this area it will feel heavier than it actua
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I also agree with Tom and yes high build will work for marbling.
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I prefer gluing with a 15 minute clear liquid type epoxy. I make mostly wading rods and that has never failed on me. The thinner viscosity epoxy bond the cork together without it showing a glue ring. I shape on a small lathe at high RPM and use a medium file to get the shape then finish with 100, 220 and a final 400 grit. The main problem I have had with shaping natural cork is that sometimes it
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The Fuji K series RV guide in 16mm may be perfect for this application as far as height goes. It should be heavy duty enough and would make a great but guide for a simple spiral.
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X4 use a slightly larger tip top, it helps.
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Jon, I shape with a medium file then sand the more dense cork (burl, rubberized) down to the finish first then bring the softer cork (natural) down to level of the dense cork. Light sand all of it to finish off with 340 or 400 grit. You may have to sand the more dense cork slightly more with the finer last grit with an emphasis on keeping everything level. I hope this helps. I would destroy my
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Also when you do it next time stir/mix resin thoroughly then add pigment and stir again. Most curing problems are due to the fact that they are not mixed up enough. When I have done it in the past the pigment I used was powder and Testers along with the mud additive that keeps the colors separated and it dried faster.
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John Cates Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I remember my first rod. I celebrate its many > imperfections. It's like a wedding, if something goes wrong (and it will) you will have something to tell your grandchildren about.
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I like to do both if possible but sometimes the spine and the straightest axis just will not line up very close to each other. I have found with modern graphite blanks they typically have a major and a minor spine but most all have a slight bend you can see looking down the blank. If you build a pieced up fly rod without aligning these visual bends it will look like a dinosaur's back. Many fly bl
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Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I agree with Tom. Your goal here should be getting > the line down on the blank (3-guide reduction > train) because you can then space runners where > you need them to follow the bend. A quick > reduction with sufficient runners should move some > power into the lower section - which sounds like &
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Mel Shimizu Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Salt water rods are not often layed down like a > bass rod would be. My spiral always goes to the > left for a right handed angler to make laying the > line onto the reel easier but I really do not > think that it matters very much. I also do mine to the left for a right hand person and to the ri
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No I did not, Thanks Gregg
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Mathew Paul wrote about Flexcoat High Build; "I my self use the high build and apply a thin coat and then follow it up with a second coat and it comes out prefect every time." This is what I do also but I heat up the epoxy in warm water for 10 minutes before applying. I will add, on the second coat; I will fill in the low spots using the brush just to move the epoxy around to where I
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I did this about 2 years ago with titanium wire welding rods and got the sane results with the oxidation after heating and quenching. I did 1 piece loops. Basically just did it to see if it were possible but did not pursue it like you. I need to make a small jig and get an anvil and couple of other things. It will work and you did great R & D and yours look good. Thanks you have inspired me N
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Wrong post
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Not sure but snake guides came into use somewhere around 1870 from the German / Austria area. I have seen cane rods made in the 1930s with those types of rings. Can't remember who made the rod though.
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The 7' NFC blanks can easily be cut down to the desired 6'10" without much change in action. The main difference is the finish, the Immortal blank has a painted finish that is silver or titanium color whereas the NFC blanks have a sanded finish and no coating. Both are good blanks. The coating can slightly dampen the sensitivity of the blank but it is so slight it may not even be noticeable
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I usually extend the blank butt out the reel seat if I am using a butt piece so it will attach to the blank and not just the seat. I know you weren't really asking about this but I thought I would ad it. If you are comfortable with doing it all at one time and have a good technique for it then go ahead and do it. I always attach the butt piece or the end cap the same time I mount the reel seat, I
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