So are you having a hurricane sale? LOL I live in Houston Texas and we are still trying to get it together, I feel your pain. Keep going it will only get better from here.
Forum: rodboard

I think there are so many factors that will affect the performance of a rod / blank. Small amounts of weight here or there on identical blanks using identical line and reels would be the only way to determine this. Identical guides and spacing as well as grips and reel seats would also have to be done in order to quantify the exact responses from these changes. It is mind boggling to say the leas
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The only thing I worry about on the Minima guides is the strength or how much force it takes to bend the guide at the neck. I have used Ti framed SIC ring Fuji L guides on fly rods because I believe they are stronger than the Minimas. Maybe I am just paranoid because I have no real test or examples to go by. I believe some destructed testing is needed to determine this. There are a couple of thin
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Measure the blank in MM where the seat is going to go on the blank. example; It will be mounted 10" up from the butt and at that spot the taper is 10.3 mm then get a 10.5 mm seat. The seats are sized apart in .5 mm increments (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5 etc.).
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Haven't made a conventional baitcaster in 6 years. All spiral wrap and no complaints yet.
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Look on the left side of the screen. Most of them can supply that.
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I use a file that is flat on one side and slightly round on the other. The trick is to turn the cork at high rpm. Use the file to shape then sandpaper to smooth out. To get a sharp edge where needed use a small block of wood under the sand paper. I have found a gouge tears up the cork too much.
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I think that rod manufactures make rods in most part for general use and economy and don't consider personal preferences. If you have a preference or a reason for doing something then do it if works better than the manufacturers recommendations. Use the recommendations as a guide and improve on it if possible.
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The slope in the KL guide is why I use them as strippers on fly rods. The angle is appropriate to the position of the casting hand and where else are you more likely to encounter tangles than fly fishing.
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" I was always an art kid growing up but found myself building homes right out of high school to this day" Scott, I am the same way as far building things. I have to make something that works to complete my own self. I started making surfboards and kind of grew out of it then as I got older started fly rods then conventional bait casters and spinning rods. It fit into the surfboard
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Going against the grain a little here. More single foot ceramic guides are lighter than less double foot snake guides. If the rod is 9' then the proper amount of guides is going to be 11 + tip top. I would recommend Fuji L frames for the running guides ceramic (SIC) rings 7mm running guides on Titanium frames and Fuji KW Ti frames with SIC or Torzite rings in size 16mm and 10mm as strippers. An
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I put epoxy on the winding checks because they will corrode in saltwater. It helps protect them but I usually use cork grips. I don't think it will be any different with shrink wrap.
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Phenix M1 or Bass Recon II, Batson Revelation / Rainshadow RX6 SP842 or 843 / New Immortals, North Fork Composites and Fuji Point Blank. Get the models rated for 6-12# for light and a little heavier 8-14# line.
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Wing nuts for sure and consider round earth magnets on either side of the spool attracting or set together opposing each other on one side with a wing nut (and nylon washer) for tension. A little bit cooler than a spring. What you've done Looks good, factory style.
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I think REC guides would also be a good choice. They are more flexible than the Minimas, so you could abuse your rods even more. The tournament guys I have dealt with break their rod blanks more than anything with an occasional messed up guide.
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Fuji SKSS or Minima Ultra-lite exposed blank are most likely going to be the lightest reel seats. If by generic you mean a seat like a Fuji DPSM type then yes the mass of the AERO seat is greater and will weight slightly more. The nut / hood type can also vary in weight. The type of arbor you use can also make a difference in weight; graphite, polyurethane, composite, fiberglass tape or masking t
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I have a Pac Bay wrapper that is very similar to the AMT one. I added the Alps Up Grade chuck to it and really like how it performs now. I do not turn cork on my rod wrapper because of the dust and debris it make instead I use a small lathe for grips, The alps chuck though would have no problem turning grips.
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I do not like the size of the PTSM nor the insert. The Alps MVT can be mounted without an insert so to me that is a plus. I have used the PTSM seat on a Point Blank and fished with it, it is ergonomic but has a "large" feel to it and too much weight with the insert and added epoxy. I have not used the MVT but most likely will now that I know it will fit without an insert. If the PTSM w
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Batson Enterprise is a good company and stand behind their products. Sometime there are production or design issues that will cause a certain model of blank to have failures. Many companies will try to recover cost and not actually fix the problem. From what I have seen they will correct the problem and they will take care of their customers if you deal directly with them.
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Look at the Fuji Arowana, MN or LG Tip Tops. You can get these in a Titanium frames with Alconite, SIC or Torzite rings and save some weight but still have "real" tip top.
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I used 200 grit on the ends and it has a very good bond. My thoughts on the seat is that I really like the shape but am not too keen on the insert. My main reason is weight and the other is size. I think it is too big, the shape seems to be ergonomic though. I think it would be a much better seat if it was made to the blank diameter like the ACS or the ECSM seats without the insert especially wit
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I do not believe, from talking with blank manufacturers, that any blank will break at the same amount of stress or lbs of pressure consistently from a precise measure of force. It should be a range of different amounts within a "window". If the manufacturer has done there job in an ideal consistent manner then the rods that they make should constantly break within this window. I think t
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I have heard some really good things about Git Bit from BB enterprises. They carry the whole line of Alps guides.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jon, > I prefer the revolver wrap and use 3 or 4 guides > to move the line from the top to the bottom, but I > space the guides the same distance as if the > guides were wrapped normally. > > Good luck I do what Roger does but may adjust to keep the line off the blank. The forth guide
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Matthew, I'm pretty slow so you don't have to worry about me getting in a rush.
Forum: rodboard

Here is a direction that I think will take you where you want to be. Graphite rod blanks typically labeled "IM6" are very flexible in the range of a similar fiberglass rod with a couple of notable differences;1) they are lighter 2) the tube wall is thinner. They are usually the least expensive of the graphite type blanks. They also use a fiberglass scrim in most cases and it really help
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I think you are on to something with the underwraps not being coated first. Coat them and extend the epoxy a little past the thread onto the blank. Make sure the underwrap is hardened before applying the top thread. Let us know next year if this worked for you. Good thread.
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I love your tech Roger, thanks.
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How I do it. Inshore rod; cut some slivers off the hot glue tip, cram them in the tube, hold TT with needle nose pliers (LOL), heat the tube with fire and mount on rod tip. Never had one fail.
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I use Kiwi conditioning oil for shoes. Before that I used the mink oil for about 30 years.It makes the cork slightly darker but that eventually wears off. The thing I like about it is it still lets the cork breath or get air to it and keeps it from dry rotting like wood sealers do. I have cork on rods that are 35 years old that are still just as good as the day they were turned..
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