North Fork Composites will have the blanks that are the closest to the G Loomis blanks. Just look at their rod specs on their site for what you want. The titanium framed guides you can get get from Fuji, Alps, Kigan or Sea Guide will be comparable or better than what Loomis has as will reel seats from these manufacturers. Also Phenix, Alps, Sea Guide and Pac Bay have "soft feel" reel se
Forum: rodboard

Fred Cory Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You'll get lots of opinions from REALLY good rod > builders. Once you find a system that works for > you, keep using it. > > What has worked for me is warming the bottles of > epoxy in warm water - before measuring and mixing, > then I mix vigoously - yes there are bubbles in > the mix...
Forum: rodboard

Can't go wrong with a CTS. I also like the Sage Salt, X and Method along with TFO's BVK and Mangrove.
Forum: rodboard

Fuji KW Ti Frames and Torzite, SIC and Alconite rings. Very strong proven frame and good guide height for fly rods. The others listed do not have that design.
Forum: rodboard

Great R&D. Awesome that you jumped in a did your first with carbon fiber grips. I have one little tip, the Alconite guides are lighter than SIC and don't make any difference in the cast-ability. They are lighter and with that many guides it should help make the tip a little more responsive.
Forum: rodboard

Again I like the 15 epoxy. This is why; 1) clean outside with DA or acetone 2) can be shaped about 2 hours after gluing up. 3) totally waterproof 4) Never had a failure.
Forum: rodboard

Thanks for the info Roger. I was wondering why I don't like the way polyester thread wraps and the amount of stretch was the answer that I was looking for.
Forum: rodboard

I have done good with just about ant 15 minute epoxy like the Flex Coat rod epoxy or the Gorilla epoxy. I have tried the gels/paste but I can see lines in the cork so I use the less viscous thinner epoxies. I build mostly wading rods so I want something that can stay wet for long periods.
Forum: rodboard

Sam Folds III Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > …... I have only done > > spirals with micro guides so taller larger ring > > guides will increase the distance of the > > transition of the line from the top of the > blank > >
Forum: rodboard

Let me re-phrase this; there will be less length in the transition from top to bottom in a simple spiral if not the line will rub on the blank. The longer this takes to go from top to bottom down the length of the blank the more guides it will take to keep the line off the blank. Whatever works for you keep doing it. I use something closer to a Forhan to decrease the angle of the line at the bott
Forum: rodboard

In my humble opinion a simple spiral is for a short boat rod. The less transition with straighter line (slow or Forhan) is better for casting
Forum: rodboard

Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > My experience with most every hook keeper I've > tried except the REC is that their corrosion > resistance is very poor. For just a little more > you can assure that it will never corrode. In > fresh or salt. You can also use their single foot > fly guides for a keeper. X2. I have even bo
Forum: rodboard

The groove added to the frame that gives more surface area to glue the ring on has been the improvement (Deep-Pressed) for Fuji. This has made the ring more reliable in the frame and not as prone to pop out. Actually Kigan may have been the first to do this with the Drawing press frame and later with the Burring press frame. This is debatable because Fuji claims to have done it first, whatever it
Forum: rodboard

I have posted this before but here it is again. This is how I do a spiral and what Roger says is correct. The stripper guide and the next two guides can be moved around from their spacing and position on the radius to keep the line off the blank and to help keep the line as straight as possible going through the transition. When static testing the line should stay off the blank. My guide train is
Forum: rodboard

This would apply to all casting rods, with or without a level wind. You may want a larger stripper to accommodate the line coming off the spool from side to side.
Forum: rodboard

Finish or paint on a sanded finished blank make it less sensitive. The coating dampens the vibration that can be felt and as stated earlier makes it heavier. That is why Gary Loomis does not use any coatings on his blanks.
Forum: rodboard

Casting Rod Guide Placement Mark, The most important part of guide spacing, to me, is the relation between the stripper guide (guide closest to the reel) and the next 2 guides toward the tip. These guides will determine how well the rod will cast. The running guide placement following these guides should be graduated with the tip top and first runner guide being the closest distance to one
Forum: rodboard

I used to use single foot spinning guides for for strippers on light to medium casting rods (circa 1995), I did it to save weight at the time. Since I have gone to micro guide sizes and spiral wraps, I have been using double foot strippers usually in a 6mm ring like the Fuji RV or KT guides but have been pondering the idea of going to a spinning single foot guide only for the height advantage an
Forum: rodboard

Mark, Everything I build I would rather keep than sale. I know it will work, it will work the way I want it to and the way I designed it to. If someone else uses it they usually want to buy it or at least have one like it. I don't care if I sell it or not. I will make a rod for someone because they asked me to and will take no money until they have it in their hand and only if they want it. Some
Forum: rodboard

Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I must be missing something. I don't see why > higher weight rods need 20 mm strippers and 8 mm > running guides when the line isn't all that much > bigger than a lighter wt line. If the objective > is to "keep the line straight" it would lead to > smaller guides, not bigger guides.
Forum: rodboard

It is a locking nut and hood. This is called an up locking reel seat. The part that turns on the thread is the locking nut and attached to that is the hood that goes over the reel foot. I guess the locking nut is stripped or is the hood cracked? If so you will have to remove the handle (this will destroy it) and butt, pull the locking nut / hood off and replace it and put a new handle on. You are
Forum: rodboard

I would recommend 8mm single foot ceramic running guides with titanium frames and two or three double foot strippers (20mm, 12mm and 8mm). Like this; Fuji KW 20mm, KW 12mm, KW 8mm, KB 8mm, KB 8mm, KB 8mm, KB 8mm, KB 8mm, KB 8mm, KT 8mm, KT 8mm, KT 8mm and a KG Arowana 8mm tip top. 12 guides total (does not include tip top). The runners could also be all L frames. The 20mm stripper should be spac
Forum: rodboard

I was looking at a few 2 pc North Fork Composites blanks the other day. I was surprised at how many different models they had.
Forum: rodboard

Put your wrap epoxy on thinner and apply more thin coats as needed. Testers model paint works great as pigment for epoxy. Let them sit for about a day so the pigments in the paint bottle settles then be careful not to stir up the bottle and undo the cap and drain the thinner off till you get to the pigment, then seal it back up. Use clean tooth picks to get pigment out of the bottle when you mix
Forum: rodboard

Jay Lancaster Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Good idea...especially if you're planning a > re-wrap anyway. Single bevel razor, shallow slice > parallel with the surface. You'll end up with > flat spots, but a light sand & your epoxy will > likely level it back out. Worth a try for sure. X 2 I would a;so use a damp (with water) lin
Forum: rodboard

Buzz Butters Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > set up a separate checking account just for that > order. Have them deposit $ into your account. then > take it from there..... Works well with legit out > of country orders....... x2. Don't let them have access to your personal accounts.
Forum: rodboard

Lonny, They use a 7" full wells grip whereas most other brands use a 7 1/4" to 7 1/2". The butt is attached to the reel seat so the label is not covered. You should be able to use a 7" full Wells grip, leave about an inch to 3/4" of the blank outside the reel seat at the butt and still not cover the label. I just put one together on a nine foot blank and I was able to do
Forum: rodboard

Sage One 896-4B = 8WT 9'6" 4 piece Builders BLANK (not designated for factory finished production). I like these reel seats: Alps ALW-HERAWL2 & RAK7L2(TR), REC RGAL, Struble U-21 and Sea Guide TiFS, Guides: Fuji KW 16, 12 strippers REC Heavy duty RSNX(B) 4, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3 and a HH large loop TT. 11 guides and a tip top. I don't like single foot snakes so if you are thinking about
Forum: rodboard

If you are that concerned about what side the spiral should be on when trolling then the left spiral should be to the port and the right should be to starboard. I have never seen a difference when hooking up. As my Father would say; "Don't be such a land lubber". I would like to know your dealer
Forum: rodboard

When I made surfboards back in the 80's and when I would meet a new group of surfers, usually from traveling, there would always be someone that would say; "I could do that". I never new anyone that said that, to actually do it. When I wanted to learn it was out of necessity because I could not find a shaper that could make the board I wanted. I was fortunate enough to be able to hang o
Forum: rodboard