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Current Page: 58 of 136
Results 1711 - 1740 of 4068
3 years ago
Norman Miller
I basically apply the finish to the wraps and when finished I stop the rotation with the guides pointing toward me. I then pick up a small drop of epoxy from my brush using a bodkin or dissecting needle (a needle on a stick). This drop is touched to the back side of the foot and the epoxy is wicked in filling the tunnel. Rotate 180 and repeat. While stopped I will also remove any excess epoxy tha
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Here is the two line static test article from the library. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
It has crystallized, which is fairly common. Just warm it up in the microwave for 10 to 20 secs. The crystals should turn back to the liquid form with a little heat with no adverse affects. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Single foot Spinning guides are basically grouped into three generic frame types, V, Y, and Match (M) guides. For a given ring size the V guide is the shortest, the Y guide is higher, and the M guide has the highest frame. All the Fuji K guides are tangle free guides which have forward sloping ring, and this tangle free frame style has been adopted by several other companies like SeaGuide, Americ
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Keith your are welcome. You will love the way the rod will perform. I wrap by hand, and have doing it that way for 51 years, and have built thousands that way. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
My IP numer for the NFC MB736 X-RAY was 674 gm. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Sure, Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
I have no problem feeling a crank bait wobble and bounce over structure with my Point Blank rods, but I do use braid, with a fluoro or mono leader. Most people like to use a moderate action graphite or fiberglass rod for crankbaits because they tend to result in a better bite to landing percentage, and these people feel the crank bait working with these softer rods. So I don't think you will hav
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
The NFC SKU for the SJ703 X-RAY is 06406. So the SKU is correct, but the varience in weight is much too great for it to be the correct blank. I think you got a mislabeled blank, contact NFC and let them know. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Get a nice metric tape measure. You can get them at some hardware stores like northern tool. Makes laying a guide train much easier because you don't have to deal with fractions of inches. Once you start using it you will become a convert. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
The Point Blanks make into very nice all around bass rods. For cranks baits, even though they have a very fast action, the tip is light enough to keep the fish hooked up. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
The Rod Geeks B470MH has an IP=818g and AA ~72; the NFC MB705 IM has an IP=566g and AA=71. Although both are lusted as MH the Rod Geeks is more powerful than the NFC. Different manufacturers rate their rod differently. I don’t have any info on the Liberty blank but assume it’s IP would be some where between the other two. With a similar fast AA Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Read these. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
I like a more progressive spacing for my guide layout then what the GPS sometimes give you. If I were laying out your guide train this is what I would use. I like using the metric system because it is a lot easier to use than fractions of an inch. The following measurements are from the tip top in centimeters. 10 cm. - KT4.5 21 cm. - KT4.5 33 cm. - KT4.5 46 cm. - KT4.5 60 cm - KB4.5 75
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
I guess I'm the only one here to have a blank broken in a bizzare or dumb way? Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
My guess would be the flag pattern they used to make the blank. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Roger take a look at the posted Gudebrod chart. I’m sure their data is based on diameter and tensile strength calculation rather than actual breaking strength when wrapped on a guide. But the theoretically calculated data is clear. But you are correct in saying both are sufficiently strong enough. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
I was refurbishing a rod for a friend who wanted a more modern guide train. After removing the old guides I was using a heat gun to soften the epoxy wrap finish so I could easily remove it. . When I was about a foot from the tip the use of the heat gun caused the tip section to fold over right before my eyes. I knew better so it was a dumb mistake on my part. I built my friend a high-end rod to r
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
I once snagged a turtle while fishing, and laid my rod on the ground while trying to unhook the poor creature. Once unhooked the turle turned around and bit though the tip section of my rod. I guess it was for revenge. I just laughed. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
That's a relatively easy repair, only if you have access to a lot broken rods. Basically, an internal plug will work nicely. First tape or wrap the broken ends of the rod to prevent any additional damage around the break site. Now find a piece of blank which will slip snuggly into the tip section of your broken rod without any wobble, with a few inches of over lap. Remove the butt cap from your b
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
That works. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Is it possible that the guide was abused when pulled out of rod locker or was stepped on when on the boat deck? It may also be possible that the guides were too far apart in the butt section of the rod and thus did not spread out the pullout forces generated when the rod was fully loaded. In this case the angle of line would pull down on the guide ring bending it and lifting the toe of the guid
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Tom here is a Gudebrod table concerning thread strength and weight. It may be of use to some people. [96.30.27.81] Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
An 18 to 20 RPM motor is fine for applying epoxy, a faster motor just make application a little faster. The secret is to apply a thin coat. The thicker the coat the harder it is to get a good level coat. I think most people use too much epoxy over labels, and that is a mistake. Finish epoxies are all self leveling (some better than other) so just let it do its thing. After coating I stop the moto
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Either, both are more than strong enough. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Yes, use the micro setting. The conventional setting is if you want to use larger runners for heavier line. For your rod length and reel, the KR GPS will put your butt guide (stripper) about 19 to 20 inches in front of the reel spool and the first runners (choke guide) about 20 to 21” in front of the stripper. Basically, the GPS places the choke guide in front of the stripper at a distance approx
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Forget the spine, just look for the straight axis. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
The butt diameter on the NEO is just about 15 mm. Both the ACS and ECSM reel seats come in variable IDs up to 17mm. So there should be no problem buying a reel seat that fits. Just measure the OD of the blank where you want the reel seat, and then order a reel seat that will fit. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Keith - I like to match the tip top size to the runner size. If I use a 4.5 runner, I use a 4.5 tip-top. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
It can also be found on the NFC site. Norm
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 58 of 136

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