David, it is in the Simplified Common Cents System. Here is the quote from that article in the helpful hints section. “In order to provide relative results for your own work and to help ensure that your measurements will be relative to those of others, it is recommended that your forward support be no further along the blank than about 10% of its total length. For a 9 foot fly rod this would equ
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Basically, the Intrinsic power (IP) of a blank is the weight required to bend the blank 1/3 of it’s total length from the horizontal when supported at a point equal to 10% of the blank’s length. The Action angle is the angle of the blank tip when the blank is deflected 1/3 if it’s length. ERN is a conversion of the IP that takes into account the weight in grains of various fly line weights, and
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Try these. Norm
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I just start the trim wrap, make as many turns as I want and add a half turn. For example, if I want a 4 turn trim wrap I make 4 1/2 wraps . I then bring in the main wrap thread in between the the trim wrap and the trim thread, make a turn to catch both the trim thread and the main wrap thread. I put my left thump over the cross over point and then cut the trim thread. Make a few more turns wi
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Here’s the thread. Norm
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Agreed, the 6L seems just too short to use as the third reduction guide. Nicolas is spot on with the 6M, this would allow for the use of larger size 6 or 5.5 runners, if desired. You could also use a 7M as the third reduction guide, and the 6L could be used as the choke guide, this would allow for the use of the larger size 6 or 5.5 runners for a conventional build. For a micro build I would cer
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It looks like you could use PB73ML, or PB70LXF, or PB70MLF. All would work well. The ML rods are more powerful than most other blanks labeled as dropshop blanks from other companies. Norm
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Back when that rod was made, they used very large and very few guides. There was no such thing as braided line or even high quality mono. Today the trend is using more guides which are smaller, and lighter, to spread out the forces generated while casting or fighting a big fish. With a 3500 or 4500 reel, you could certainly go to a KR concept if using braid or relatively light mono, but a KR co
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I assume you want to use size 6 or 5.5 runners. If so it may work fine. Could also use 20H,10H, 7M, and 6L as your choke. If you are planning on using 5.5 or smaller runners then use the KL5.5 M as the third runner. If you look at the reduction guide placement, for conventional vs micro they are basically identical. I think the problem you are having is that the 6L is a little on the short size f
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You did a good job stripping it down. How long is this rod, and what size reel will be used? I was under the impression that it was a surf rod when you stated it originally had a size 50 stripper, Hence my guide recommendation. The rod does not look all that long, but it could just be perception. Norm
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The KR GPS gives you a good starting point, it’s measurements are not locked in stone. There is a lot of flexibility in putting a guide train together. Not sure what information you put into the KR GPS, but I have not seen this particular reduction train show up before. The 6L is shorter than the 5.5M which is used in most of my reduction trains. I have used a 6L before but as a choke guide on a
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A more modern guide layout would better spread out the forces involved with casting and landing fish For a KW layout could use KW30, KW25, KW20, KW12, to your KW runners. For a KW/KL hybrid layout you could use KW30, KL20, KL12 to KT runners. The KL20 is higher than the KW20 and fits well with the KW30. The KW/KL reduction train would be lighter. Just depends on what you want. Norm
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The RV25H to RV16H to KW10M makes sense to me based on height. RV20H , RV16H, KW12M does not make sense to me based on height. If using the RV20H, I might think about using RV20H, KW12M, KW10M. With a large reel and heavy braid I think the RV25H reduction train might be a better choice. On a 7’ rod the reduction train will be short, maybe about 20 to 22” total with the stripper at least 22
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I don’t build rods for tuna jigging, so I don’t really know what guides are the best for such a rod. With that said, the RV16H is a KR spinning guide and might be a little too tall, which is the reason I suggested the possible use of the LRV guides which are designed for conventional rods. Still have the same look but a lower profile and if you want you could use them as a stripper and running gu
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I mount the VSS seat down locking, with the no thread hood facing forward toward the tip. I do this because in the up locking position I find that the hood loosens way too much for my liking. I glue the seat in place, and after cured I then screw on the hood. Done this way you will never accidentally glue the hood to the seat or the blank. So if you replace the seat or on your next build try it
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They also make a low frame LRV for conventional casting rods that could be used. Norm
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Yes that guide sizing will work for all rod lengths using low profile casting reels, no problem. Just make the handle length that’s is comfortable for you. That’s one of things that make a custom rod custom. Do it the way you like it. Norm
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David is correct on seat sizing. The Point blanks unlike most other blanks are know for their equiradius butt. For example, there’s is very little taper in the first 12” in the butt section, allowing one to use the same size winding checks and reel seat. If using metal winding checks get them slightly larger, it’s a pain to enlarge a metal winding check. For an exposed reel seat I get them slight
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I use three KBs and the rest KTs. However, you can use all KBs or KTs. The foot of the KB is pretty wide and depending on the blank can be too wide to use in the very tip of the rod. The KR GPS is only for spinning rods. As I mention casting rods are a different animal and layout is pretty simple. Just place the stripper somewhere between 19 to 22” in front of the reel and the first runner about
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NFC also has the FW702-2 (IM) and the FW702-2 (SM) both are light powered two piece blanks. One is Intermediate modulus and the other standard modulus. The MHX S842-2 is a very nice blank, I have made a number of them over the years. It is probably similar to the standard modulus NFC, as far as the graphite used. Norm
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Use the Fuji KR casting guide train. The stripper will be a KW10, followed by a KW5.5 transition guide which is then followed by KB/KT runners all the same size. I usually use either size 4.5 or 5 runners. If you have a little extra money you can use the RV6 stripper, but it only comes in a titanium frame, but it is a very nice guide and looks cool. I have rods built using both KW10 and RV 6 stri
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Remember, all the blanks shown on the NFC website are half price. One doesn’t realize this until you put it in your cart. When you check your cart you will see the discount. NFC also charges a $10 excise tax on their blanks. So they are cheaper than you think. Norm
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If you insist on sanding the blank, wet sand it using a fine wet/dry paper. I use 800 to 1500 grit, and it still goes very quickly. The resin ridges sand down very easily since they are softer than the graphite. The resin residue while sanding will be white, you don’t want to see a gray residue while sanding, that would mean you’re down to the graphite. The fine grit wet/dry paper is fine enough
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Phil I did CCS analyses, the spinning versions always had a lower IP than the casting version. You should know by now that I do CCS analyses on many of the blanks I use, not all of them but a fair number. I know that for some of the 7’ St Croix V blanks I have used in the past, a medium power casting rod had a higher IP than a medium powered spinning blank, same thing for the Rainshadow Eterniti
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The Point I was trying making is that a blank from a given manufacturer designated as a medium casting blank is different from a designated medium spinning blank. For example, the Rainshadow REVC68M (designated casting) is a different blank from the REVS68M (designated spinning). The casting rod is more powerful. This was also true for the older St Croix V blanks, as well as for other manufacture
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In my experience manufacturers that have designated spinning and casting versions with the the same specifications, the casting version is always more powerful. Another reason I wish more manufacturers would use CCS data for describing their blanks. However, you can build a spinning or casting rod on any blank you wish. Norm
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As I mentioned above, tack the leading edge of the tape to the blank with super glue, and you will not have the coil of tape moving or walking when sliding on the real seat or part that you are shimming. Norm
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Most sewing/embroidery threads are treated with a silicone to allow them to be used in a sewing machine. So if you use these threads make sure you use CP, otherwise you may have problems with fish eyes. Norm
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My favorite is dry wall tape. The mesh allows for the epoxy to penetrate to the blank. I tack the leading edge of the tape to the blank using super glue, this prevents the tape from ‘walking’ after the epoxy is applied. It is lighter, and cheaper than masking tape and a roll will last a long time. I also like the polyurethane foam arbors for reel seats. I glue them into the reel and then ream t
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Give it a coat of Permagloss. Apply while Turing using a foam brush. Very easy and quick, and looks great. Norm
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