Jeffrey, for casting rods I like to use a KW10, or RV6 (if you want titanium guides) as the stripper followed by a KW5.5 transition guide and KB/KT runners in size 5 or 4.5. I normally place the stripper about 20” (19”-21”) in front of the reel. I put the first stripper about 10 cm (9 - 11 cm) behind the tip top, and progressively fill in the remaining space with number of guides needed, which is
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I really like the KR concept. For your inshore rods I would certainly use a KL20H, KL10H, and KL5.5M for the reduction train, with KB/KT runners in size 5 or 4.5. It will cast great. A KL25H based reduction train is way overkill for the reels being used. It would work well with much larger reels, 5000 and up. Norm
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Does not get any easier than using a reusable cold pack, pull it out of the freezer throw a rag on top and use it to keep you epoxy cool. Did this over 20 years ago before I had air conditioning in my shop. I like and use the Mudhole aluminum mixing dishes, I will reuse them until they basically fill up with old leftover epoxy finish. I just mix a new batch on top of the cured epoxy left behi
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When I do a locking wrap, I wrap right up to the guide foot. I then do one or two wraps behind the guide foot (blocking wrap), then two or three wraps around the ankle of the foot (locking wrap), and finish with one or two more blocking wraps behind the foot guide. Very easy to do and goes very quickly. Size D thread is the easiest thread to wrap, size A thread takes a little more attention, with
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You could use either they will both work. The 20H based reduction train might give you a little more versatility if you ever plan on using a larger reel or heavier braid and/or mono/ fluorocarbon. It will still work well with lighter line and smaller reel. If you plan on using lighter braid and or a smaller reel the 16H based reduction train will work just fine. Basically your choice. Norm
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Some people do a locking wrap on micro guides some don’t. I always do a locking wrap as added insurance, but basically your choice. I use the Fuji speed thread for running line through my micro guides, this tool will thread guides as small as a size 4, so for me a size 4 micro guide is as small as I go. In addition, a size 4 will easily pass an FG leader to braid knot using up to 30 lb fluoroca
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The higher the temperature the faster the epoxy cures. I solved this problem many years ago by using a cold pack with a damp towel on top. Place your epoxy mixing container on top of it to keep it cool. Works well. Norm
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That gauge is very useful tool it measures in both 1/64 of an inch and in mm, so you have a good tool. However, when you gave guide sizes as 4, 5, and 6 most of us were thinking of fly guide sizes. Because back in the day your rod as made, casting/spinning guides of those sizes in mm were not used to my knowledge. I’m thinking the smallest guide might be a size 6 or 8 and the largest a size 10 o
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Your line guide measuring tool may be giving you fly guide sizes. If the rod is from the 50s, 60s or even early 70s the guides probably did not have a ceramic ring, and were all metal guides. If they did have ceramic rings I’m pretty sure most of those guides used back then are no longer made. If you can post a picture of the guides someone may have them in their old guide stashes. Norm
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I have used the MHX SJ9000 blank as a slip float rod for crappie, we don’t have walleye down here. It is a very nice blank, I build it with PacBay Minima M guides for the reduction train and Minima F guides for the runners, set up KR style. I use size 5 runners, which have an ID of about a 6 ceramic guide, could also use size 6 runners, but the 5s work. Norm
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If you are removing the rear grip I have had good luck using a piece of PVC tubing to remove reel seats. Basically, a 3/4” PVC pipe will fit over the butt end of most freshwater blanks. Need a length of pipe that is several inches longer than the butt to the reel seat. With the pipe snugged up against the reel seat and you holding the blank above the reel seat, hit the PVC pipe with a hammer. Thi
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Call them and see if they will send a sample. They may also have more information. Norm
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If you use to use Clemens Crystal Coat, It is still available. I believe that Klass Koat is the same stuff as the old Clemen’s Crystal Coat. Norm
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Crystal coat is very clear, and colorless, and it’s bubbles release and leveling properties are excellent. However, It’s major draw back is its cure time, which is very long. Unlike other epoxies which are mixed by volume at a 1:1 ratio of resin to hardener, Crystal Coat is mixed by volume at a 3:2 ratio of resin to hardener.. Just make sure you understand these properties before ordering. Norm
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Like Mick, I also believe that Dr. Hannemann’s CCS Concept was brilliant. However, I know that an IP weight (in pennies, grams, grains, or even ounces) is more useful to me because no conversion to ERN is required. Because of this I will continue to use iP to describe the power of blanks I use. With all due respect for everyone involved in this educating discussion I totally understand all argum
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You don't need Torzite guides. SeaGuide makes some very nice guides with the RS or zirconia ring inserts that will work well. There are a lot of nice guides out there. American Tackle and PacBay also have titanium frames. Pick a brand and go with it. Norm
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Alps or Fuji are both very good guides. I personally like Fuji, but that’s me. The double foot Fuji KW guides would work quite well, and Fuji also makes both KB and KT running guides in a size 6 and they are quite durable. The only difference between the KB and KT guides is the size of the foot, which is longer and wider with the KB guides. The KBs are designed to be used in the mid section (bel
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Eleven guides on a 7’ Heavy power rod seems like a little over kill to me. Depending on the reel size I would use a double foot 12 stripper if using a higher profile reel or a double ft 10 stripper with a low profile reel. I would follow the stripper chosen with a size 8 or 6 double ft guide, respectively, for the extra strength they provide. The runners could all be single foot guides and shou
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What do mean not a casting reel seat and wrong hood size? Those reel seats can be used for spinning or casting. Norm
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Never said it was an add on, I just stated it was a complication that is not needed to understand power and action. Norm
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Doing a CCS analysis on a blank is really a straight forward and simple process that anybody can successfully do. Basically, the amount of weight it takes to bend the blank 1/3 it’s length defines power, and the angle the blank tip exhibits when bent by this weight defines action. Simple, easy, and understandable. The addition of ERN to the mix, complicates and confuses many, because they look at
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Thank you Tom. The conversion chart will help. I know the NFC ERN chart used to be in the Library , which allowed one to convert any IP weight used to an ERN value. We have had this discussion several times in the past. I think such discussions are useful to give new members an idea what the CCS data is all about. CCS data is quite useful for comparing blanks. Norm
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Then tell me, when you personally do a CCS analysis in your shop on a rod blank from a manufacturer that does not give ERN values how do you directly measure ERN? The answer is you don’t! You measure the weight (in cents or grains or grams) required to bend the blank 1/3 it’s total length. This weight is the intrinsic power (IP) of the blank. To get the effective rod number (ERN) you have to conv
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You have to have a conversion chart or formula to convert IP to ERN or vice versa. The formula was not given in the common cents articles and the conversion chart given only goes up to an IP = 62 cents as being an ERN of 7.9. Thus, it rather difficult for someone to do the conversions from IP to ERN and vice versa. Also changes in IP are not proportional to changes in ERN. For example, the chan
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Tom, I know what you are saying, but you are not seeing my point. If a manufacturer lists the power of their blanks by ERN (asPoint Blank does) then how does one compare that ERN number to their favorite blank which they personally measured it’s IP in grams. Like ERN , the higher the IP the more powerful the blank, thus IP to IP measurements are a valid way to compare blank power. In my opinion
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Mike B, ERN didn’t come first it was derived from the measured IP of a blank in grains to reflect a relative fly line weight. I know that the first 30’ of an 8 wgt fly line weighs more than the first 30’ of a 7 wgt fly line, but can you tell me what the difference is in grains, grams or cents? Norm
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It’s useless for people like David and others who are measuring IP in grams or cents for their blanks and would like to know how these numbers compare to IPs of other blanks. For example, when given an ERN of 25.1 how does one compare this number to an IP value measured in grams or cents? Unless he has a conversion chart or a conversion program he has no ides that an ERN of 25.1 is equal to 764.0
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David, unhide your email or email me. I have the conversion charts that you might be interested in having. There use to an NFC IP to ERN conversion chart in the library but it’s no longer there. NFC at one time published the CCS numbers for all their blanks but they no longer have it available, although this data has been archived it is hard to find. Norm PS - I agree ERN is a useless number u
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Trash it and get ThreadMaster or Hitena. They both seem to yellow less than other finishes I have tried, and cure in a reasonable amount of time. They also seem to me to have less problems with crystallization. As soon as it comes back into stock, I want to try the Gen4 epoxy, which sounds quite nice and worth a try. Norm
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Many of us here are veterans and do appreciate the heart felt thank you. Norm
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