Pac Bay quality has been an issue for a while now. Flex Coat on the other hand has a very good product.
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Not Mudhole
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I'm with Don. I leave my epoxy in a cup or on foil off to the side while the rod is in the dryer. This allows me to test the batch without having to touh the wraps on the rod.
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I had a similar problem with an old off shore rod of mine. I opted for the shrink wrap instead of removing the old rear grip. It worked wonderfully and has held up for nearly five years. There are other options but this has worked for me in the past.
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I had a Pac Bay and found the chuck to be totally unreliable. I now have the Alps and never regretted it. I highly recommend it.
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Give it a few more days and see if it improves. If not and you want to make sure it is done right, then strip it down and redo the guides. I've been there myself and it is not a pleasant option but the lesson will have been learned for future builds. Most here have had a similar experience at one point or another.
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First one? Well done right out of the gate.
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Permagloss is liklely the best and most efficient way to go. You can get it painted but that is considerably more money and time.
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Try contacting Rick Hall, the golbal sales manager for Seaguide I have contacted him several times and he is stellar in his response.
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Tom, I follow what Jim said pretty much the same. I have a detail sheet for every build that has all components, layout, wrap details for not only the butt wrap but each guide as well. It helps to list the thread details as well. I had a customer come back after about five years and wanted a matching rod for his new wife. I pulled out his sheet and had all the information I needed.
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I can't vouch for any another source than Decal Connection. Superb all the way around.
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Michael is right. This method works great to keep the stress off the guides. It works well for all types but especially for casting guides on top of the rod.
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Of course it is worth it. The real question is based on what you use to define worth; is it monetary value or is it something more intangible such as the satisfaction of owning an implement of your own making in a sea of others with commercially produced rods? Then again, the question was posed to a room full of rod builders with a slightly bias skew on the subject.
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Put epoxy on a rod and put it in a dryer. Forgot to turn it on. You get the picture.
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Joel, I'd suggest you get a kit from any of the reputable retailers. This will do a lot of the leg work for you as far as what goes with what. Personally, I think you could go either way with fly or spinning. Fly rods are much narrower and, being new, your fingers will befuddle you more than a spinning rod will. That said, the videos are all over the internet. Most of the retailers put ou
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I'm not a fan of Pac Bay but I have had luck with their blue nylon thread. Look into it and see if it meets your needs.
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Had it happen many times. I believe either the glitter or paint is the problem.
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Very solid products
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Here too.
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If it is a metalic guide such as the minima, I'd heat it and try to pick it loose. If it is a ceramic guide, I's still heat it and pick it as a first step. If that doesn't work,then use a blade. Ceramic is much tougher than you might think. Ask Norman Miller about the abuse test he did on ceramic guides. I replicated his test and was surprised at just how much abuse a ceramic guide can take
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Set it up in one of the configurations and then put it to the load test. If It stays off the blank then you are good to go. If the spacing doesn't meet your needs then adjust as necessary.
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Ernie, We all have a story about the learning process. And each of us reading your story are shaking our heads, acknowledging it while recalling our own personal favorite mistake of our own.
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I was hesitant at first but now that I have built with it....well, I'm sold too.
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I've used Madeira in several ways. Color preserver is a must!
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I got the same advice from Norm a few years ago at the expo. I couldn't wait to get home and try it. Sure enough, he was spot on in his assessment. Then again, he typically is.
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It depends on not only the reel size but the type of line and the application. A mono line can require a larer guide than braid. And a surf rod will likely be different than spinning rod. Even spinning rods would vary depending on the use; sail fishing as compared to inshore fishing.
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One of the most telling statements I’ve ever read here shed light on the difference between a ‘homemade’ rod and a custom rod. I still have my first two rods I built over 40 years ago and love fishing with them. They are monstrosities to look at with many workmanship flaws that I would never let pass today but I love fishing with them. Now I have better equipment and a lot more experience that
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Steve; The visual wrap is a great program to help you advance, as is Billy's book. Be prepared to make mistakes and start over. The abalone is a very sharp way to do what you are looking for but it takes a bit of practice. Marbling is a great way to enhance the rod on the butt or the space on a split grip. There is also a shrink wrap that goes over the blank and shrinks when you pour hot w
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Aleks, I think most having read the post by Marc agree it warranted the action you took. This spurned two more good choices on your part. 1. Removing yourself from the equation regarding NFC issues. It avoids any conflict or the appearance of a conflict. 2. Appointing Norman is a superb choice for the job. Congratulations on two wise choices.
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Weldwood or contact cement. Michael is right, follow instructions and you should be just fine.
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