Thanks for all the responses. My customer read a little one-paragraph article from Fur-Fish-Game, published earlier this year. His opposition to braid was unshakable. He is now getting a very nice rod that will accommodate mono exceptionally well. I was in a position to sell a rod or have an argument. Thanks again all.
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I was building a rod for someone and when I asked if they were going to fish mono or braid, they absolutely refused the idea of braid. I asked why and he referred me to a magazine article stating that braid "would shorten casting distance, And, too, when playing a sizable fish or pulling hard on a snag, the no-stretch line cab be pulled down deep into the rest of the spool, causing tangles.
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I like my necessary tools and supplies in front of me while I'm working. 18" would not afford me the ability to work in this configuration. 24" is more "user friendly" in my situation. That being said, 18" is workable, but it limits options.
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I know all epoxy is approximately the same. But can anyone tell the the subtle differences between threadmaster and ProKote? Is there a discernible difference?
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I replaced mine.
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I've used both myself and built them for customers. No complaints either way you go as both are excellent.
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Permagloss. Use the makeup sponges to apply it and let it stand to dry. It is pretty good stuff but it needs to be done in an area with good ventilation.
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I've tried SeaGuide on several rods and like them very much. The only point of criticism is the availability.
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Rob, I use the Pac Bay thread carriage with the Alps wrapper all the time. Works just fine.
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I had a Pac Bay initially and found it to be short of my expectations; the chuck consistently came loose and proved unreliable. I upgraded to an Alps system and couldn't be happier with it. The chuck stays put and has never caused me a problem. I can't say anything about CRB as I haven't seen the tracks.
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Both Michael D and Chris F above gave great choices. You won't go wrong with either.
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Thanks everyone, but the customer wants similar single-footed guides. I think the KR would be the way to go for sure.
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I'm rebuilding an old St.Croix TRS66MF, CS2 Graphite, 6-12lb, 1/4-5/8oz. There were originally 6 guides on the rod but the first stripper guide was missing when the owner gave it to me. The second guide up the line is a 16mm. The owner fishes for redfish most of the time and uses 6lb pound test, not specific on the reel size. . I'm replacing the old guides with BLVAG. Should the first strip
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Permagloss is great but will eat the wrong paint. Check out the compatibility before using it.
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You won't regret it
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To err is human
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Permagoss with a makeup sponge works great. I've used sandpaper but I am intrigued by Mark's razor method above. Good luck
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MHX are very good blanks. I have made many of them. I like the Batson blanks, Rodgeeks are good, If I marble guides, I usually wrap the guide with a thread to match the base coat of marbling. Then I put down a base coat of colored epoxy that approximates the thread and then I add the other marbling colors. Most of your major distributors have instructional videos on how to do the basics.
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I've used a tail stock on my power wrapper and it worked fine. I've used the drill kit from Flex Coat and it works OK. I eventually got a lathe after looking for a couple years for a great deal. I preferred not to have that much dust in the same place I am wrapping my rods.
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Both are great.
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I just did six old ugly sticks for a friend who had an emotional attachment to the rods. I used the method Norman Miller mentioned above. Apply the permagloss with makeup sponges and let dry.
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I did a 12 foot earlier this year, using the KW as transition guides and the KT as runners. I put a locking wrap on the runners just for insurance.
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In my experience, and I am no expert, I find it easier to do over an underwrap. This has some positive points and some detractors. First the positive; it is easier to mark the places you want your threads to intersect. Blanks have to be scratched or marked with ink. I have never been able to keep the ink spot small enough to work well and sometimes it smears on the aligning tool. Second, it gi
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Tapered reamer and SLOW, SLOW, SLOW
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Permagloss them and enjoy. They are comfortable and have plenty of grip when your hands get wet/slimy.
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I upgraded to ALPS and swear by it; others I have just sworn at. The only noise mine makes is when using the drying motor, and even then it is minor. Check your alignment so your belt is where it should be. Also check your mounting bolts, one of them may be slightly loose.
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Kevin at Get Bit will walk you through everything.
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I've had this problem twice, although my situations did not involve a heat source and both include a restored Ugly Stik. My first was a old surf rod that I stripped and painted. I under wrapped the guides and finished as normal. The paint bled through the underwrap threads and looked horrible. I took note and used CP beneath my underwrap on my second build. I was in a hurry that day and mis
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Indulging in a alcohol remedy has been known to improve some of my worst mistakes.
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You do not HAVE to put anything beneath the shrink wrap. I usually use a smaller diameter nylon cord wrapped in a 2-axis diamond pattern underneath, with color preserver to hold it in place. Then I shrink wrap over it.
Forum: rodboard