Try to find if Sea Guide if they are available.
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CRB is, as stated abvove, a great value but I find the MHX and rainshadow are both excellent choices. I have built on all three, but only use CRB when the customer chooses them based upon price alone.
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Duplicate entry...oops.
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Eric, Sounds like you have a good foundation to build upon. Aaron is right on the hookkeeper, it is a personal thing. I would opt for one on the premise it is better to have it and not need it rather need it and not have it. As far as guides go... I would order one extra running guide. It has been my experience that once you put the guides on the rod in the suggested spacing and then perfor
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Two decades of success is a @#$%& of an accomplishment. Congrats.
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I have used all the above and they all have positive aspects. Personally I prefer the KR concept.
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Standard practice for all KB or KT guides. I don't build a rod without using the locking wrap on micro guides.
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It can vary on several factors. I usually place my epoxy on a piece of foil after mixing and brush it on from there. I always tap on the remains left on the foil to see if it is tacky or set up after enough time has passed. I think it might be a case of better safe than sorry.
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I have several and finally bought an ALPS. I love the darn thing. I highly recommend it because it offers so many quality components over the others I own.
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Phil, I'll ask him and get back to you. Dave, If he's fishing for Orcas, I'm going to demand to see his video. Do you gaff them or net them?
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I just got asked to build a 13wt fly rod. Since all my limited experience ends at a 10wt rod I built years ago, I'd appreciate any and all input on make, grip, guides, etc. Thanks
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I have an old Penn saltwater rod I use for grouper digging. I've had it for 20+ years and want to put new guides on it, only this time I want to make it a spiral wrap. Currently it has the heavy recold guides on it and I'm not sure what to replace them with. Any suggestions or guideance is apprecaited.
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I've always set my rod up from the fighting part of fishing. I put the butt where I'll have it when reeling in a fish. This is typically my lower abdomen. Then I put my non-reeling hand where I'll have it when fighting a good sized fish, which is usually where the foregrip will go. Then I put my reeling hand where it feels best to crank the handle. That's how I set it up. As far as the guid
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Decal connection has always been spot on for me. 100% recommend.
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1. I mix my epoxy for no less than 4 minutes. 2. I've recently switched to guide glue/adhesive, looks like a hot glue stick. It'll take some getting accustom to but it has been worth the learning curve. 3. Like Mark said above, shim it to fit. Better yet, spend a bit of money and get a good rod dryer. 4. I live in Central Fl and I only do work on handles outside. Wrapping outside will no
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I've used 6lbs mono with a 2.5 or 3 inch loop for years. All the above work well.
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You should have asked which is better, Ford or Chevy. Tom sized it up appropriately; they all are good if used properly, each having slightly different characteristics. I've used several over the years and come to the same conclusion. Good luck.
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Jim hit it on the head.
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I was very much the same as you, schooled on the Clemens methodology but then I was converted by the overwhelming flow of converts and practicality. It is truly a great system. So much so that I use it on all my own new rods. The only time I don’t use it is when I’m making a spinning rod for medium/ light-heavy drop fishing or for a young kid when rigidity is needed. Yes, taping up the guides
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Fuji
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I've used Seaguide with good results. What are you looking for in the KR? I may be able to help you fill in the gaps.
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I've shipped in schedule 20 and rods have been broke upon arrival. Schedule 40 has never failed me. As a note: I ALWAYS defer to Norman when seeking advice. He has never been off the mark .
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Danny, you have hit the nail on the head. I realize after a seemingly lifetime of the craft that there is always more I don't know than what I do know. Tom, fablous quote. Bravo sir.
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I have had similar incidents with Mudhole, as well as their competitors. But I found the problem was fixed to my satisfaction each time, regardless if the fault was mine or theirs.
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I've had great success with the Rainshadow products. I've built at least 8 of them for myself and family. Another option Ross suggested is look for a kit from one of the major distributors.
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I'd go with better quality guides.
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Use color fast instead of nylon.
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I have been preplexed with some of my epoxy results because there are times I use blue tape to remove dust off the first coat of dried epoxy. I have been lost as to why the fish eyes show up. Mystery solved.
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Black, white, and gold like Tom suggested. I"ve also used several lighter shades of pink on a rod with a light red to highlight. Email me for photos
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I usually apply an initial coat of low build epoxy, just enough to coat the wrap and fill the tunnel. I follow up the next day with a coat of high build. This usually does the trick. This isn't the only way to do it but it works for me.
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