It is just my preference. There might be many others who prefer this. Perhaps not just me. Actually I think I like my fly rods to balance somewhere between the index finger and the middle finger. I have not noticed any negatives to this when fishing and casting and using it. So it is just what I prefer. If I am walking a mile or more to get to a stream or pond to fish.....I like the rod just natu
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Hello. I have not been on here for years. Life took me away from rod building. I still have an old question never answered. Perhaps not posted here. Anyway.....I like to balance a fly rod on a book end where my index finger would rest on the cork handle with a line running out thru the guides and lying on the ground....and hanging a cut in half plastic water bottle cup with bb's until I find the
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Thank you Tom. Understood......and thank you very much. jim
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My brain is getting very old. I feel a bit dense this morning. Pardon me.....but am I missing something here? I have looked at Dr. Bills fly line analyzer. One needs to build his scale I suppose. But there is a lot of data available. Is there some reason I cannot just weight the first 30' of a fly line and correlate it to his charts and guestimate what ERN it would be good for? I have a scale tha
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Thank you Mr. Dubay. I had both a grizzly drill lathe and a 42" made in china from a flea market. never got to use them. while away from thieves completely cleaned out my lifetime collection of tools....including rollong cart and tool bins. so.....I have to start all over. boaf shoulders had recent rotator cuff repair. so i taking short cuts n typing wit one finger......thank u for the info.
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I am only a fly rodder. Know noyhing about other rods. Regret lack of supporting info. But...read recently somewhere that a group of people did a compairson test. They determined they cast further with snake guids. I can remember the number....10. But do not recall if it was ten feet or meters. Bottom line was further with snake guides. I prefer single foot guides anyway.
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The harbor freight one goes to 2400rpm. the other to 3200. is it important to get to 3200?
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Casey, I don't count pre or post whatever pennies. 300 is a lot to count. I just use a plastic cup wit a string to hook it to the rod. Weight it with anything in the cup....and use BB's for the final touch. Then weigh it on a Postal Scale to get pounds and oz. Then plug it into this conversion link and I get the grain weight right away. just an FYI.....
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I have purchased many many rods during mourning after my wife passed. I would never ever ship a rod or a rod blank except in some hard tube. "EVERY" triangular cardboard box from the post office I received had a significant crinkle....or crease about 18" down from the top. They must stack them on end and stack stuff on top. I have taken pictures to prove it to doubters. Just had a
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Thank you for the help. Good suggestions. Funny how when one hears something it makes perfect sense.....but one didn't think of it themself..... I am happy to hear how to make the plugs. I have plenty of rod bond. And the re-checking of the spine as you put a section onto the rod.....as you go along so to speak.....good stuff. I was thinking find the spine of each section and then just line th
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With a 4 piece 14' spey blank the butt ends of the blank would be hard to spine I think. I am aware of the opinions that the spine doesn't matter. I believe the larger the load is the more the spine cold be a consideration. So...could one effectively spine each section of the 4 piece blank and then line them all up....and have a pretty good true spine effect axis? One could either put tur
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Might as well shotgun this and ask several questions in my mind. I have some spey rod blanks purchased off @#$%&. They were advertised as having plugs in the male ends of each section. They do not. How can I plug them? Does plugging them just keep dirt and water out or do they help reinforce that part of the blank that goes into the female end? What do you think would be wrong with,
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Velly Intraresting..... I never saw the video....but that is what I am doing. I added a 1 foot extension to it......So it will be an 11' two handed 3wt. No big deal. Just sayin' brilliant minds think alike? well probably....but I would not even DARE to apply that to me. grin
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I bought a Global Dorber 10' 3wt full flex to build into a two hander. Haven't finished it yet. But I do not think it is a full flex blank. Just fyi that Dorber has a 10' 3wt blank. Purchased so long ago do not remember price....was economical...but think prices have changed in the graphite world......
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Absolutely wonderful help and information. Thank you all for the help. I tend to write what I am thinking about in my mind at the moment. I should have disclosed that I think only in terms of a "Fly" rod. I have no knowledge about building casting or spinning rods. I can see the difference. And I am very greatful for the simple explanations above. Very succinct and clear to me. I have h
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Got it and thanks. Bottom line is it might affect looks....ie rod has a set and you do not take that into consideration in determining what axis you put the guides on. Example if rod has a turned up set, you could install guides on the opposite axis to help level out. But no matter which axis, won't affect the performance of the rod? I guess that is good enough for me.....if entirely true.
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Little help please. I am not a very experienced rod builder. I have read a lot. I understand that the more experienced rod builders have come to the conclusion that orientating the guides on or opposite the spine on a blank is not important. Or, has no affect on the rods performance. But...a comment on another thread stated "guide position will determine whether a rod will twist or not"
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I have no problem with the commercial slip rings. Work fine for me. I have not had to result to tape or such yet. If I do....cause maybe with a lot of use the cork might become depressed....well I will just use one long nylon tyrap and using an X pattern just strap it on. Cut it off when I want. I use the slip rings from Mudhole. Gem
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Not trying to be a dead horse...ahhhh....beat a dead horse to deader. But just fyi I went there yesterday with no problems at all. I did have a problem clicking on a link to the left.....but with Tom's help I discovered MY problem was on my end. I had days earlier changed my pop up security to a higher level. Didn't make the connection in my feeble head. I have corrected that....and probabl
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Got it again Tom. Thank you for the reply. I posted it here so others could see as well. To me on this end it looks like a board problem. So good of you to reply it's my problem. Think it's due to me changing the pop ups security on my computer. Sorry to have bothered YOU with it...but now I think I can fix it. Had me totally fooled. Thank you for the reply. Jim
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Tom, little problelm with my account. I try to click on links on the left and response from site is I must be registered to post? I AM registered. I have looked at my profile and I do not see anything I can change. I am now wondering why I cannot go to a sponsors link. I get the response that I need to register. Not had this problem in the past. Surely does not have anything to do with not bein
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Got it Tom. I should have mention Fly Rod....not a casting rod per se.
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Roger says the action that casts the longest distance? That is part of my question. What is the action that casts the longest distance? Tom says the softest axis....I was thinking the stiffest axis.... So....assuming an 8' or 9' rod....I would think this would be determined by the arm strength of the caster...a petite person may not have the casting strength to maximize a 9' rod for dista
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How could one build a rod for distance casting only? Not for tournaments...just a local joe kind of thing. I am NOT intending to do so...but might just for the fun of it and the learning of it. What piqued my interest is an aquaintence who appears to want to cast further than anyone. He is an ex tennis player and I notice most of his casts are side arm....go figure huh? Anyway, he is not going to
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thank you all for the replies and help. I am not ungrateful....just have been outta state till now. mhx sure gets a lot of votes. I am a fan of batson also.... appreciate the information and thanks again jim
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Is there a good source of fast or extra fast fly rod boanks that don't cost an arm and a leg? I just build for myself....I don't have a market. I purchased very cheap blanks to learn on. Most are moderate flex. I go looking for fast blanks and they all appear to be over $200! I have not checked every source or sponsor. I went to a couple of places....think I tried to just search internet as well
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Here is a database for CCS. do not know who is maintaing it....if anyone is. Also do not know it's accuracy. I made mistakes in my first attempts att CCS. Therefore if different people are posting this data....not sure how accurate the data itself might be. But there are a lot of rods listed if you are looking for something.
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Here is a database for CCS. do not know who is maintaing it....if anyone is. Also do not know it's accuracy. I made mistakes in my first attempts att CCS. Therefore if different people are posting this data....not sure how accurate the data itself might be. But there are a lot of rods listed if you are looking for something.
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Orvis TLS Power Matrix 9' 4pc 6wt Tip Flex Rod.....retested. ERN = 6.3 AA = 70 NOW I AM STOKED! GOTTA LOVE THIS THING. My personal mistakes have been solved. Thank you all for helping me beat this thing to a good end. A happy result. Got's some true grit on this board. Now I love the CCS more than ever. Sooooo many things can be done with this. Mr. Hinnemann has created an outst
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Thanks everyone. I warned you it takes a bigger bat to bang it into me head! I could easily see that Tom meant 36" and that did not bother me at all. The lightbulb just lit. Apparently I was NOT good at following instructions and it is good that I asked. I understand that it is a new ruler and extremely well done. My hats off to Mr. Hanneman for such a fine group of guidelines to go by.
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