While I agree with what Tom says, I believe you would likely find that length rod a bit unwieldy for the application you mentioned. For a first build, the kit idea Garry mentioed is a great way to start. Best case scenario would be finding someone in your immediate area that builds. I've yet to run into a rod builder that wasn't willing to help someone get started. If you have to go it alon
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Arrived home after a weekend at the ICRBE........Thanks, Tom Kirkman for all the hard work it takes to pull off a show like that........While I'm sure it is tiring for the vendors I left with even more enthusiasm for the craft of rod building.....worth every bit of my time and money....!!!!
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Why not put the fighting belt on and using the blank see where your forward hand and hand you reel with feel the most comfortable. You might even have someone load up the rod tip to simulate lifting a heavy fish......
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Aero's are great reel seats....I've got one I have fished so much the rubber coating on the palm piece is worn off.......if weight were an issue I would have noticed it......have built several rods for friends using them and all of them love the way they fish.....unless you are just dying to use a different material to construct one, why ,ess with a good thing....????
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I had no luck getting Vwrap to run on my Mac. Tried using WinOnX that others suggested but never could get it to run right . Bought a cheap used laptop just to run it and everything seems to work fine.
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Since I am a relatively new builder and have little experience, especially with something like stingray skin, take my comments with a grain of salt. Could you not gllue the skin down with something like contact cement., overlapping the edges at the bottom of the grip similar to the process Kevin Knox suggests when using abalone veneer? The overlap would be slight and I would think you could lig
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What Chester says......
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I've had good results using a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. I'll mark the blank and rotate the rod keeping the cutting edge lined up with the mark. Just don't rush it. So far I've gotten nice smooth cuts.
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I'd wander up and down the beach looking at what the locals use. How far are they casting? How much weight are they using? Is the live bait being floated, allowed to swim with only a leader and hook, or fished on the bottom? Are they throwing artificials and if so what kind? Metal and soft plastics are two entirely different animals and typically are fished on very different rods. Also, do
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It's that thoroughbred lathe you have .....it's like a race horse......it wants to run wide open......
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Grips are likely history if they are EVA......if the reel seat is metal you might be able to apply heat and get the epoxy to loosen....not sure if you can successfully remove a synthetic material seat without melting it.....I'd use a heat gun and not a torch......at this point if it's trashed, nothing ventured, nothing gained......
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If not Michael's.....Google Disney stickers......
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Remember the fingernail decals you showed me....??? Just coat a blank with them in your spare time......And come on.....if you can paint a guitar body you can paint a rod...... Nothing happening at the Point.....hope you're doing well....
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Not sure about the Castaway but I've used a Rainshadow IP964 for a couple of years now and find it handles fish in that weight range with no problem. I typically throw 3/4 and occasionally 1oz. so I can'tcomment on the topwater or popping corks. Build it with a composite/graphite split grip and it should be light enough to meet your needs. Only issue might be the moving water of a tailrace wh
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I've built half a dozen rods using Kevin's abalone and boiling it in water before applying. Occasionally I might get a crack when applying but I overwrap the entire abalone section and leave the thread in place overnight and usually find that the crack is negligible when I uncover it. If you do some form of crosswrap and then epoxy I doubt you'll ever notice a crack. The people I've buit the r
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I've had the same thing happen. I'm considering weighing before mixing but don't know if I can use the same 1:1 ratio. I know with some laminating epoxies if you are weighing the ratio is significantly different than measuring. Anyone know about Quickbond?
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Just don't use it on any beach designated National Seashore......if caught with one there, it gets you the same fine as possession of a firearm.....
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Bream on an 8wt......make sure you post pictures.....
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John: I'm a new builder as well and was fortunate enough to take a Mudhole class. However, if you can't find a class or a mentor, use the internet. There are tons of videos that cover everything from the basics to the advanced. And don't be afraid to post specific questions on boards such as this one......then just start building. The more you do the better you will get. Strip older rods a
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You would be hard pressed to find anyone any better than J.P.
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Check to see if your chuck is rotating clockwise. I upgraded my American Tackle chuck and had a prblem with it loosening if it was turning counter-clockwise.....
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Go to the NERBS website. Info on how to purchase the book as wll as other items is available there.....just Google NERBS....
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Is there a particular reason that it appears most recommended epoxies used with carbon fiber grips are 2:1 rather than regular rod building epoxies that are 1:1?
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I've built several rods using microwaves and all cast nicely. The issue for me is their potential durability when used in salt or brackish water. Add to that the relatively "caustic" tap water in coastal NC and I'm skeptical that the thin metal of the butt guide will last as well as a good set of titaniums even if they are well rinsed and dried after each use. Hopefully American tack
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Great show.....I'm a new builder so it was only my second one.....W/S was a great venue.....accomodations at the Embassy were first class and the connecting tunnel to the convention center was really nice.....great food/drink close by......wish there were more people set up doing work ("mini seminars"?).....like Arnold said......"I'll be back......"
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Thanks for taking time to do the seminars and for answering the quarter million questions at your booth....it's vendors like you who make the show such a success......I'm looking forward to working with the new colors I purchased.....
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Great time at the ICRBE......thanks to all who made it possible and to Tom for his vision......can't wait for next year......
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You can find a lot of different small lapel pins on @#$%&. For a retired firefighter friend of mine I am embedding a 30 year pin in the foregrip and a fire department logo pin in the butt cap.....I've also toyed with the idea of gluing the 30 year pin just above the foregrip between 2 back to back winding checks and then using a high build epoxy to cover the pin.......
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