Ron, that rod is off the map....!!!! And the source for bark rings seemed to have dried up. If you know of a source and don't mind sharing there are a bunch of folks looking some.
Forum: rodboard

I'll allow my epoxy to thicken slightly and then shape it using DNA on my fingers. Occasionally I'll use Devcon 5min epoxy but you have to work very quicly as it sets up fast. I also wrap my ramps when the epoxy is still slightly tacky. That helps keep the thread from sliding to the smallest area of the taper. Just make sure your blank is centered while turning and you don't over apply finger
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Prior to beginning rod building myself, I had a couple of rods built using carbon fiber grips. Also, since becoming a builder myself, I've built a number of rods, both spinning and fly using carbon fiber grip material. I fish wading in the surf and from shore and boat as well. On some grips I have a "slick" finish and on others after mounting the sleeve on the form with an undercoat
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I think Billy meant to say "THat's a VisualWRap script for a Fish wrap. Use a popsicle stick paper towel and doublestick tape and don't tape to teh foregrip"
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Cleaning out my garage I came across a fly rod I purchased off @#$%& a few years ago (before I started building). It has what I believe to be "Sleuter's Custom Rods" hand labeled on the blank. Anyone familiar with this builder?
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Whether it's cork or split grip I measure from the center of the reel seat to within 2 inches of the persons elbow. That seems to give enough handle to use a 2 handed casting method if desired and also enough length to lever the rod against the forearm if it is a large fish. Depending on the size of the person, that can vary the length.
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Mine does it also, but not on every rod.....have no idea why.........running the motor either clockwise or counter-clockwise doesn't solve the issue.....just screwed up the epoxy on a 9wt I was building because I got busy and didn't keep an eye on it.........I'm considring zip tying it.......
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Didn't smell any errors, but they could be there......
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I use West Marine 105 Resin and 207 Hardener............3:1 using syringes.......no issues.........
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Look at the Batson Eternity2 blanks,,,,,,,don't see how you could go wrong.......
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Drafting template.....they have marks to indicate the 0, 90, 180, 270 degree points......you can get them at any of the hobby stores.......get the one with the most size options
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Hurry up with the Eternity2 blueprints......
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Hurry up with the Eternity2 blueprints......
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Message him on Facebook....he responded to me today.......
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Thanks, Tom..........I assumed that would be a safe approach but wanted to hear from folks who have a little more experience than myself. Almost all of the spin rods Ive built are one piece and the ferrule/guide proximity has not been an issue. Is there a standard length of a ferrule wrap? I can clearly see the depth of the male end so do I need to wrap the female end to that depth?
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I'm building my first fly rod and need some advice. It's a Batson 10wt blank and I have the guide spacing marked per the Batson website. The issue is the proximity of one of the running guides to one of the ferrules (it's a 4 pc blank). If I reinforce the ferrule there would be very ittle room between that wrap and the closest running guide wrap. I haven't set up a static test yet so there ma
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What everyone is saying makes sense. Maybe my focus was more on the tamer guide and not the distance of the stripper from the reel seat. I'll likely end up using the spacing suggested by the Batson site since it's one of their blanks and then do a static test and test cast....... Thanks for the comments........
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Thanks, Tom........also for recognizing I meant 4 inches and not 4 feet........
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At the 2014 ICRBE I saw a fly rod that had the stripper guide placed very close to the grip with another guide maybe 4' or so in front of it. Can anyone comment on this type setup and maybe give me some idea as to where I could find a suggested matrix using this concept for a 4pc 10wt blank?
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Same thing happening to me......may have to ride to Wilmington.......
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For this application it's hard to beat the microwaves.....I've built a half dozen light tackle rods with them and they handle specks and slot reds with no problems.....do they cast farther than others? That issue is way too subjective as far as I'm concerned. Do they cast far enough? They do for me.......
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I leave the butt cap off and have a series of wood dowels that I can fit into the blank. Like Bill, I might use a wrap of masking tape to insure a snug fit.
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I built one on an MHXMU84M.......handles amberjacks well also.......
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Here's another one if anyone knows the name. I have a fly rod that says Sleuters Custom Rods and would love to find who built it.
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Assuming it's not a finishing nail, I would grind off one side of the nail head in order to keep the inlay channel from being so deep in the wood........
Forum: rodboard

As a relatively new rod builder these are the kinds of posts that I find truly helpful. My first rod build was during a class that focused on the "build on the spine" concept and encouraged the purchase of a spine finder and while some of these "arguments" regarding building on the spine in my mind fall along the lines of Ford vs Chevy it is nevertheless food for thought.
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I've found syringes and self sealing inserts for my epoxy bottles has helped my results be consistent. And there is no doubt that the temperature of the room can make a significant difference as well. If I had the room I would definitely consider making a drying box.
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Purchase a brayer at any hobby store........allows hard pressure but the rubber roller evens it out.........
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Google "color wheel".......
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Beach or boat? That's where length can make a difference. I'm with J.P. It's hard to beat a good popping blank for NC waters. I prefer Batson but have built a couple of nice MHX blanks for friends. My favorite beach rod for spanish, blues and pups is an RX8 IP964........
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