Debbie does a great job. She'll respond.
Forum: rodboard

Our IT guy tells us all the time "There are no dumb questions, just dumb people!". I hope he's not correct. I've been trying to hide my lack of knowledge for many years now. Todd
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Jerry I used Jimi Ellis at Southern Graphix to put my logo into an electronic file. Then sent the file to Debbie that will print a sheet of your logo for a very low price. Since I have no artistic skill they both helped me very much at a very reasonable price. Todd Badgley
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I have been building with the KT and KB's almost exclusively for the last 2-3 years. I quit doing a locking wrap, Forhan or whatever method you want to name it for only a couple rods. Thats the only time i have had a guide come loose. The foot on the KT is still very short. I understand capillary effect very well since I'm a mechanical engineer, by trade. I have built many rods for tournamen
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You definitely want the thread to be slightly behind the wrap. my wraps are very tight, but you should experiment to see what works best for you. I use a dremel with a flat cutting wheel and pinch the micro guides between my fingers to lightly grind just the end of the guide. I grind a very small edge just to help get the thread to start easily over the guide foot. Many I've talked to don't p
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The nail knot method works well. I do it like the flex coat video. I start the trim wrap with only 1 wrap, then add my thread loop. 4-5 wraps then cut and pull thru. Pack before trimming and then don't touch it again. It gets tough closer to the tip. Make sure you have a lot of tension. Be patient and practice.
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Unhide your email.
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I buy brushes at HL. Everything else I buy from vendors on the left. Read some posts and you'll get a feel for who to call. That @#$%& site is NOT the place.
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Michael - Yes, you can sand the bubbles. You can sand down until you hit threads. If you hit threads they will fray and look like crap. However, if you can sand just deep enough to get the bubbles out, you can apply another layer of epoxy and fix it. No matter how bad you sand and scuff the first layer, the next layer will cover and look crystal clear. When you apply the next layer, use
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Billy - I think you just hit me in the head with a 2x4. Why it never occurred to me test the epoxy by heating it until it burns. Just too much common sense! Like my mama always said, "You're missing a belt loop". I was always looking at my pants. Never knew she was meant I was that slow!
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I've used these guides exclusively. I fussed with the gap for a while. The advantages, in my opinion, far outweigh the "gap". In fact, my customers don't even notice the gap. I wrap as far as possible up the guide frame, then just 2 locking wraps and 2 blocking. Then I burnish as tightly to minimize the little gap, which looks huge when we magnify it. The design of the foot helps
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Instead of Tru Oil Gun finish, I have started using Icy-Hot. Two thin coats then I buff to a high gloss finish. Just recently I have been sanding down with 220 then 320 then 600. A quick splash of Brut, to keep that fishy smell away, and now I'm ready for grip decals. Simple as that, no fuss - no worry. Anyone ever try Vitalis?? Dad used it everyday!
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Ron - I've used the quick lock type reel seat. I can't get them tight enough to hold my reel. I use either the Fuji ecs or the Pac Bay minima. I put the reel I plan to use in the reel seat and cut the threads of the locking hood. When the threaded hood is glued up and the reel is attached and tightened, I don't have threads showing - just the winding check. Hope this helps a little. T
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I know you'll get all different ideas. I've built several Castaway BB1's and BB2's. One of the reasons I like the Castaway blanks is the Moderate action. I would urge you to talk with your customer and ask him why he wants a fast action. I usually can't get an answer other than that's what they've always used. Gary Klein is well known for fishing jigs and he strongly prefers a moderate (para
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I would recommend spiral. I have built this same rod with several different blanks. The spiral works great. 8. I start with a 5.5mm double foot on top at 0degrees. Next, 5mm single foot, and 4mm's to the tip. I normally fish 14-25# Fluorocarbon. If you fish braid with a fluoro leader, you need a small, compact knot. I don't fish a leader and the micro's work great. Drop me an email if yo
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I agree with John. If you are worried about the force exerted on the blank to rotate 180degrees, then you should spiral wrap the guides. The only negative to a spiral wrap is "they look funny." They cast great, (maybe better) than all of top. They cast very accurately. The rod is balanced when under load. Todd
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I found a paper tape measure with adhesive backing at Hobby Lobby. I stuck it right onto my wrapper under the rod supports. It's pretty quick and easy to lay the rod on the tape to mark the spacing.
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Bill - My own problem with the Microwave guide is in my ability to get them before they are sold out of someone's pocket. You travel across country to the ICRBE, you ask very nicely for the guides, arrive early and purchase all but the kitchen sink, and at the end of the day all the guides, and your own special stash, are gone! Maybe this week I'll be able to wrestle some away from your coh
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It doesn't matter if the line touches the blank. "Static Test" any factory rod - It's frightening! If you're building with all on top and no flipping (considering an 843) why the extra sizes. I build all 4's to the tip. If this is a worm or jig style rod, you should look into some kind of spiral wrap. Email if you're interested in the spiral setup. tbadg
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Lance "made" me buy a 7' med heavy, fast for a worm rod. The blank weighs less than an ounce. Then I just "had" to buy an HM 7'1" heavy, fast that I plan to compare. I'm very intrigued by both. Too bad the NRX is not headed in this direction... Todd Foolishly chasing the "sensitivity" carrot!
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JP - Shoe Goo!!!??? I knew you were innovative, but using shoe products on a fishing rod??? Next thing I know you'll be explaining to us the difference in advantages of briefs vs boxers for the butt wrap... Just kidding, you're carbon fiber handles had me thinking on my drive back to Memphis. My son loves the neon colors. Great to see you at the Expo this year. Todd
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Jim - Have you thought about cutting a Fuji reel seat? I've cut several with a dremel that turn out very nice. I saw a castaway reel seat split on a very light rod by Mike Harris. Just a thought.... Todd
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I've rebuilt some older All Star rods and they turn out great. I would definitely remove all the guides and replace with micro guides. Remove the cork handle and reel seat and replace with both a split grip and split reel seat. You should use either an exacto knife or razor blade to scrape any epoxy residue. You can get aggresive with the scraping, but be careful. I've found the best way to
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I fish senko's a lot. Took me some time to get the feel, but I really like them! Steve has much more knowledge than me, but I can't help adding my opinion. Please remember the saying about opinions... Anyway, I would urge you to use a casting reel for this technique. I build on a 7' medium or medium light blank and spiral wrap micros. With my reel adjusted properly I can pitch the senko a l
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What size bait are you pitching? I see the rod you're trying to replace is 3/8-3/4oz. If you're pitching a 1/2 or 3/4oz jig or maybe a 3/4oz sinker with a creature bait, I might look to a blank with a bit more power. When I'm pitching I normally use an 845 or even a 7'6" flipping rod with braid. Don't mean to confuse the issue, just my $.02 worth.
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Castaway MB843, split grip, Castaway skeleton reel seat, Fuji 4mm K series on top, 6mm tip.
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I've been using spirals on all my rods I fish with the tip up, (worms, jigs, shaky heads, etc). I really like the newer Fuji K series guides. I use (1) 5.5mm double foot on top, (1) 5mm single foot at 60 degrees, (1) 4mm single foot at 120 degrees, then all 4's to the tip. Also, depending on what the target bait is to be fished, I will use either a 6mm, or 4mm tip. For carolina rigs I tend to
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And I thought $39.95 for my rods were too high! I bet I can get at least 49.95 now. But then the time frame is a little tough...
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Larry - Before you start, go to the "SEARCH" tab on the top of the forum page. Type in any topic you like and make sure you change the date to "ALL". You should find many of the same topics already discussed and many, I must reiterate, MANY opinions. Just like Mike above, I have yet to talk to any of the vendors on the left that won't give you an honest, good answer. I
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Lee - I have been dealing with Decal Connection and Jimi Ellis of Southern Graphics. Jimi took my design and converted it into a graphics file. I sent that file to Debbie at Decal Connection and had something like 80 individual decals made. I thought the price was a steal compared to graphics in other industries. They make one off decals or they can make sheets full. Extremely easy to de
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