After a long and happy relationship with Fuji Concept guides I've been forced by a client to build a few rods with the "K"-series guides. I'm not at all happy with the way these things look with the Forhan wrap. I know that the gutter in the guide foot is supposed to eliminate the need for this but I've looked at the thing and just don't trust it. Does anyone out there have suggestions ?

Jim Kirby

Jim,

I too have the same issues and actually posted my concerns way back when they first came out.

The Forhan wrap doesn't work as well on the Ks. Some on here will say that it does and they are better than me because mine look lumpy and have a significant gap as they transition from behind the guide to in front of the guide.

My solution is to wrap up the foot as far as possible then come around in front of the foot and put a trim. Then I let the epoxy build up slightly in front of the foot creating a little ramp which I hope will help secure the foot.

Cheers
Chris

Jim,
With the length and diamond design of the guide foot, I really see no reason to use the locking wrap.

Wrap a few without it and see if you can pull them out . Doubtful.

Use a conventional wrap, do a nice job on the finish and move on.

Take care
Roger

They are a pain but it can be done. I have had best results with going right into the locking wrap without doing any blocking wraps.

Mike,
Sure they can be done, but do you really have any reason to do them on these wraps with their longer feet and different foot design?
Roger

I've used these guides exclusively. I fussed with the gap for a while. The advantages, in my opinion, far outweigh the "gap". In fact, my customers don't even notice the gap.
I wrap as far as possible up the guide frame, then just 2 locking wraps and 2 blocking. Then I burnish as tightly to minimize the little gap, which looks huge when we magnify it.
The design of the foot helps get the epoxy to flow underneath. I've had to remove several guides and the epoxy under the guide is impressive. So much that I actually agree with Roger. I have stopped with the locking wrap and have not had a single failure. By adding the trim ring you still don't get rid of the small gap. I've done that as well. In my opinion, it's much fuss about nothing. Great guides, period.

Todd

Jim Kirby what size guides are you using?

If they are 4.0 or smaller some have doubts and others who sell/build/use micro rods have failure/warranty history.

Test/Use exists

The K series micro, Fuji's version of frame design change, \was developed to improve warranty return rate for micro rods. .

Many builders are now using more than one type of attachmant and guides types on the same rod. Micro guides toward the butt have a higher replacement problem than guides near the tip section. The pull out is caused by many different situations. The worst being - long throw - non stretch limp braid - wind - bait hung up - angler dropping rod to horizontal and yanking to free bait - huge force - pull one guide out - failed guide knocks two more in front out - free rod/component replacent or unavaiibilithy of rod for tournament use. Many rodbuilders do not like this!

Remember the goal of M&M Volume I - build a better rod! The composite formed by proper thread, tension and finish and the thread/finish encasement of the frame all contribute to the strength of the attachmant. The Forhan raises test numbers and reduces warranty return on all micro guides.

Mike I think you are correct. Most do not realize many using the Fohan used blocks prior to the locks. On the K series guides the locks fit perfectly in the "neck" at the entrance to the two risers. Blocks put prior to the locks tend to place a fulcrum point for rotation of the guide foot. I refer to blocks that are placed after the locks placed past the twin riiser and the locking wraps. This completes the encasement of the intentional finish port with a thread/finish composite..

The small "visual" problem of closing the gap is small when compared to a failure.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/28/2011 07:04PM by Bill Stevens.

Is there any data available on the breaking strength of a traditional wrapped guide compared to one using the Forhan locking wrap? I typically use the locking wrap because it appears stronger, but wondered if anyone has ever tested the strength of the two wraps.

Ron

Ron,
With respect to actual twisting or using the guide, there is little difference in the wraps.
The big difference that you see with locking wraps, is for guides that have short feet and or a straight tapered foot, with no locking tabs on the feet.

If the foot is relatively long, and if the foot has locking tabs on the foot - there is really little need to use a locking wrap.

But, for short footed guides, especially micros, then there is a significant advantage to the use of the locking wrap.

Actually I really see little advantage from a builder to have guide feet this short on a guide. All right - you save the weight of a half dozen wraps and the finish for the wraps.
But is that really significant in the scope of things?

It would be so much easier and quicker to wrap a guide foot that was a touch longer.

Take care
Roger

If you do not or can not use three turns , use two or even just one and then do a block wrap after

I am sure the locking wrap police are not watching you

Bill - willierods.com