closer shot of the foregrip
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closer shot of the butt
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Cabelas 7'6" Fish Eagle blank with Swampland split grip and marbelized epoxy.
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This is a 7'6" flipping rod built on a Cabelas Fish Eagle blank. This is my second build and I decided to try my hand at marbelizing. I think it turned out pretty well.
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Everyone has already offered good advice that will probably be a more permanent solution but another option is to use a dryer sheet to remove static. I have never had issues with static while rod building but I have used dryer sheets to remove static from other objects such as pages of adhesive labels (multiple pages will stick together after printing due to static) and my plastic powder funnel w
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I use a GLoomis IMX MB843 and a GL2 MB783 for spinnerbaits and buzzbaits. Both rods are very versatile; they work great for 3/8-5/8oz spinnerbaits, 3/8-1/2oz buzzbaits and lipless crankbaits. The GL2 seems to have a softer action than the IMX and is perfect for lighter spinnerbaits like the 3/8 oz Terminators (darn things seem to be more like 1/4oz). I am currently building a Castaway HG40 blank
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John, I am working on building something similar to what you have. I attached my drill in the same manner and have been using 1/4in all thread rod for a mandrel. I was wondering if you used a bearing inside of the metal piece that you attached to the wood at the tail of the lathe.
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I'm located in south Georgia and I build rods, though I mainly build for friends and personal use.
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I would recommend making an epoxy ramp. I generally use an epoxy ramp in place of a fore grip on my rods and on split grips. For smaller ramps I use Devcon 2 part epoxy. Just apply and shape it with your brush or spatula and then rub an alcohol wetted finger over the ramp when the epoxy is almost set to smooth it. For larger ramps I have found rod bond to be easier to use since it is thicker. I g
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I may have to try some of that Loctite plastic epoxy for repairing the coolers we use to ship water samples at work. Rod Bond seems to work really well for this purpose but I'm always willing to try a new product. I like Rod Bond because it adheres really well, stays were you apply it and will flex slightly when cured. Walt, if the Loctite doesn't work, give Rod Bond a shot.
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Mr. Kaufmann, when you recommend using a 10mm guide, are you referring to a 10mm BYAG or a BLAG type guide. The 10mm guide I ordered is a BLAG fly guide. Also, I don't have a 5mm on hand and I have already ordered my guides and would hate to pay shipping for 1 guide. Would it be fine to go straight from the 10 to the 4's or do I need a guide in between? The only size I have in between the 10 and
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Yes, that is a Castaway HG40. Swampland had a special on these blanks a while back and I bought a 783, 784, 805, and 2 MB784's. They all seem to be nice blanks and like Bert said, the 783 will make a great worm rod. I plan to build my 783 as a spinning rod and use it for texas rigs and small jigs.
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I ordered a 25, 16, 10, 8, 7 4's, and a 4.5mm top today. That should give me plenty plenty of guides to play around with. I doubt that I'll need more than six 4's, I just like to order an extra guide or two just in case. I'll have to play around with the 16, 10, and 8 and see which combination works best. I appreciate the advice from both of you. Thanks.
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I am preparing to build a popping rod for speckled trout on a Castaway 963 XP3 blank. I have built a few rods in the last year and I decided to try micros for the first time on this build. Since this is my first time using micros, I would like some advice on the guide setup. I plan to use 4mm Fuji Alconite running guides but I don't know what other sizes I'll need. I plan to use either a Shimano
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The Castaway HG40 MB784 is worth considering. Swampland has this blank for $12. I recently bought two and they feel like they would make an excellent topwater rod.
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I finished building and delivering the rod last week. I decided to use the Batson RX7 CB80H-M and I was impressed with the blank. I used Fuji alconite guides (30-16-10-6-6-6-6-6-6) wrapped with Gudebrod garnet thread with metallic silver inlays. I used a size 20 reel seat , 12" cork rear grip and an epoxy ramp in place of the foregrip. I had originally intended to wrap the ramp with the same
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I'm surprised that I have suffered very little guide damage over the years and have never pulled a guide out. I will keep using the Forhan wrap on all of my rods to help prevent future problems. I like the way the Forhan wrap looks and my guides feel a lot more secure when wrapped in this manner. It makes sense that smaller guides would be much easier to pull out. The feet of the size 6 Fuji Hard
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I have been wondering about the benefits of the Forhan wrap as well. I have built two complete rods and have two more that I am in the process of finishing. I have been using the Forhan method since I started building rods. However, I don't know that it really benefits me. I have never pulled a guide out on any rod I have ever owned, factory or custom. The fact that I fish from a jon boat instead
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I agree that black or gray would look good with a metallic blue trim. Black w/ blue trim will match the color scheme of your grip and trim rings. However, you might want to consider using blue as your main wrap and then use a silver or white trim band.
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There is a good article in the library about narrow trim bands that you should read. The technique is fairly simple with a little practice. Basically, you lay your index finger against the blank (fingernail side down) and lay a length of thread on top of your finger. Next, pinch the thread with your thumb, make 2-4 wraps around your finger and run the tag end back through the loops. Once this is
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I looked at the Castaway 964 and 965 blanks and I think either one would work, however the 965 appears to be out of stock. Swampland also lists two Batson blanks (CB80H-M and CB80MH-M) that look suitable as well. Trinity, which Castaway crankbait blank did you use? I am planning to build a crankbait rod later this year on a Castaway 964 or 904. The 904 looks like it would be identical to the fa
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A friend asked me to build him an 8ft spinning rod for smallmouth fishing in the winter. The rod will be used to drag a 1/2oz carolina rig with a live minnow. The three blanks that I am looking at are the MB941-MHX , Lamiglas International ISS102-2M and Lamiglas International ISS102-2MH. Which of these three blanks would you prefer for this application? I realize that these three blanks are not e
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You might want to check out the Batson 822.5. I have never built on this blank but the specifications suggest that it would suit your needs. The 822.5 is a 6'10" extra-fast action, medium power blank and is offered in RX7, RX8 and RX8+ graphite.
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The MHX kit is a complete kit and includes guides, top, reel seat, and a cork handle.
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I just finished checking some of the sponsor's sites for the Batson arbors and I could not find them. However, Mudhole carries size 26 graphite arbors that should work. Each one is 1 inch long so I would guess that it would take 4 or 5. Since these arbors have a 1.00" OD, I will have to turn them down slightly. I don't have a lathe, so I guess that I will have to glue on the arbors and then
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I recently purchased a 12'' graphite tube (.980" ID) from Mudhole for use on my next rod (Cabela's Fish Eagle GL764) and I have a few questions. First, what kind of arbor works best with this type of handle and what is the minimum OD that should be used. I was thinking that a set of Flex-Coat polyurethane reel seat arbors in size 24 (.930" OD x 4.75") would work. I want the finishe
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Personally, I would not want split grips on all of my rods. I like split grips on a rod that will be used for pitching or flipping but I do not like to make long casts with a split grip because it feels awkward (when casting with a split grip, my left hand will be holding the blank and it feels awkward to me when making a hard cast). I prefer a full grip on a rod that will be used for casting dee
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I'll take everyone's advice and scuff the existing wraps before applying a second coat. It's better to take one extra step and avoid potential issues later.
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Thanks for the response. I new you could wait a day or two, but I wasn't sure about waiting over a week before a second coat was applied.
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I am in the process of completing my first rod, which is a 5'6'' light action Shakespeare that I have stripped down and rebuilt. I have finished wrapping the guides and I have applied one coat of Flex-Coat Hi-Build. The first coat looks decent, however, I need to apply a thin second coat on a few guides. I would have applied a second coat the next day, but I had to travel to be with my family for
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