Waterproof Vinyl Decal Paper from Swampland. HP7160 inkjet printer.
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Castaway BB1 cut to 7'3", Minima reelseat, spiral wrapped
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I've had my best results using clear Testor's waterslide which can be found at Hobby Lobby in the models section. I had issues with fading with some of the other media. I paint the area of the blank where the decal will go with white, silver, or gold rattle can paint first.
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Sure, Just add a little marbling pigment.
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My experience with the Papilio white vinyl is that it fades very bad. My first rods were built with Testors Clear waterslide with the blank painted silver or white before applying and they have not faded one bit. This is both using the same HP7160 printer and spraying the decal with Krylon or Treehouse acrylic clear before applying. The HP7160 has passed away and has been replaced with a Broth
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It is nearly impossible to just move the seat without destroying the seat. Then the guides would need to be removed to reinstall the new seat. Have you thought about extending the rod from the butt end to make a longer handle?
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I've been using the Duplicolor High Performance Wheel Coating Clear and it has held up very well so far.
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I bet the wicking away while turning could be the problem then. I do most of my applying only turning by hand and turn on the drier when all is applied, the excess removed and mostly level.
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I too had a learning curve while trying to get a good finish job. I read the article in the library over and over and it just would not work for me. I see you just posted 'wicked of a little sag while turning at 20 rpm'. I always cover my decal areas and make sure no dry areas are left. If a sag starts I remove it. I may turn it by hand a couple of times to make sure it is evenly distributed
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Jon, the spirals I have built still feel like a casting rod and I can't tell the difference until I look down at my guides.
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Also, I haven't had the fading issues with the Holographic decal print media. Not sure why I have with the white water proof vinyl as the only difference has been the print media.
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This is the tutorial I use to do mine with a few exceptions. Instead of wrapping the base with thread I spray with silver, gold or white paint. I have been using Testors Water-slide Decal paper without any fading over 3 years. I've also used the Waterproof Vinyl and has faded pretty bad compared to no fading of the water-slides.
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I use a little Rod Bond. I haven't had one come loose yet but I normally have a small wrap in front of it which hides any gap between the rod the winding check.
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I would probably stick with a 9" length like your other. It shouldn't change from a full length.
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I think you should also think about what application the rod will be used for. For my cranking rods I like a longer handle than most to brace against my side. For spinnerbaits a little shorter and rods where you impart a lot of action on the bait such as jerkbaits and topwaters still shorter so that the handle doesn't interfere with the action you are imparting on the bait.
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I've been using them with the ECSM seats also as an alternative to epoxy ramps.
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My finished foam cores have all been heavier than my cork grips of similar dimensions. I have made cores from #8 and #6 and neither have been lighter. I have made them with minimal epoxy (squeegeed out as much as possible and left the carbon texture) and the weight is still more.
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Just a though but what if you splice it together (with a plain square knot???) and finished the wrap. Then apply your finish and let it dry. Then trim off the knot like you would a nub and apply another coat of finish.
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The epoxy finish is peeling away from the thread like it is not getting a good bond to the thread surface after a little use. It happened on this last rod on my epoxy ramp in front of the reelseat. The color looked great after the finish was applied, it just hasn't held up. I did not have one fisheye on the entire rod. One another rod, the guides twisted enough to crack the epoxy after little
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Maybe I'll try thinning it. I do not think this is a contamination issue since I have never had fisheyes or these issues without CP. I have always used the end of my disposable brush to stir both the CP and my finish. I think I maybe applying the CP to thick and finish to thin.
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No fisheyes. Do you let it dry between coats? The directions on the bottle are a little confusing. I applied one coat and the thread soaked it up I touched it up as it was turning. I shook up the bottle real well a couple of hours before using it since I don't use it much, to give the bubbles time to go away. Then I stirred before applying with the end on the brush. I only have the Chromase
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I let it dry for 24 hours. I don't think I have any contaminates in the thread but I could be wrong. I have no problems without CP so I think it I am doing something wrong with it. I guess I should add, the problem areas are where my epoxy ramp in front of the reel seat meets the blank and at the guide stems.
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I normally use black thread with metallic trim bands so I do not have much experience with CP. On two of the rods I have built using lighter colors with Chromaseal I have had delamination between the finish and the thread and was wondering what I may be doing wrong??? I am applying one coat of Chromaseal and one build was using one coat of Threadmaster HB and the other with two coats of Pro-Kot
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my last one was nylon blue and silver metallic base and nylon blue top and it turned out really good.
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I haven't tried that one but it may not be enough of a contrast on the bottom. How about dark purple and metallic silver on the bottom and dark purple on top. I've done a few with blue and silver on bottom with blue on top and it really pops.
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I have stripped finish from many of my old rods and I always leave them bare. I have fished these hard over the past couple of years and have had zero issues. (Now, since I said that, watch me break one next week)
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I've used U-40 Cork Seal and tried Thompsons Water Seal. The U-40 is far superior in my opinion because it keeps a more natural appearance over time. I apply after I've applied finish to my wraps since you can just wipe away the Cork Seal from the finish.
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Isn't the shimmer thread really a thin flat ribbon? I don't think you could burnish it to get the effect you need. You need two "round threads wrapped side by side for it to work.
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Kicked my Castaway BB1 with Revo Premier in Saturday and believe or not it floated. I guess it pays to build light and buy light reels.
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I have 3 topwater rods myself and it all depends on what type of lure you are fishing IMHO. I have an old rebuilt Allstar TWS which is a 6'6" Medium fast which is fine for Sammys and such but it really overpowers poppers such as the small Zell Pop and Pop-r's. For the poppers, I have an old green Shimano Crucial Medium which is labeled a Spinnerbait/Buzzbait rod but in my opinion is too li
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