working on my first CF grip. I turned it to shape. pulled the cf over it and coated with the epoxy. let it turn on the dryer and then set up for 24 hrs. sanded to get rid of some dust and bumps. wiped it down with some DNA
put it back on the turner and applied the second coat of epoxy. I thought I gave it a good coat but then noticed that thre were some "bald" thin spots. when I went to give it a second sanding before the final finish I noticed they wre more like fisheyes. what did I do wrong? I sanded the best I cold for now and since it's only a practice grip I'm not too worried about it but I don't want to screw up the next one.

Fish eyes are usually some kind of contaminant. Could be the DNA. You need to make sure after wiping all the alcohol is completely removed/dry. If any gets trapped in a pocket or crevice it can escape later and will cause fish eyes.

This time of the year pollen can be the culprit too. I just had one. The nice spring weather had me open the windows in my shop and that was a mistake.

Could also be a tiny bubble working its way out during the cure.

Once you have fish eyes they are a pain to get rid of.




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Riley Rods-Hard Core Grips to Go!-----Carbon Fiber - Composite Grip Store-----Capt Mike's Blog-----No Excuses Fishing Charters

I remember reading here that Tom has said to not use a solvent as the last step before applying finish.

If you're going to sand, I'd probably wait longer than 24 hours. Once sanded you should be able to gently dust the crud off and recoat.

Gary,
NEVER< NEVER wipe down with DNA or any other solvent between coatings.

Rather, just use high pressure air to blow any dust off the surface.

If you need to wipe it down with something - simple clean soap and water and a rinse with clear water is a better option. But then leave the object under a fan for an hour or so, to be sure that it is 100% dry before applying finish.

But the best policy is to use NO solvent or heavy cleaner between coats. Jus to easy to end up with fish eye.

It most likely is the DNA. There isn't any reason to wipe with a solvent after sanding! Blow it off as Roger mentions, or wiping it down with a microfiber cloth should be sufficient to get rid of the sanding dust.

It is probaly the DNA but skin oils can also be the culprit. Mike does not clear coat but uses just the epoxy as a final finish so yes it is hard to get rid of fisheyes once formed. I clear coat mine so sanding out the fish eyes before the final coat is not that big a deal to me but I still try to avoid. I transfer mine to a wood dowel to spray and so I always, after the transfer, sand with 600 gt to get rid of skin oils .I then wipe with a clean rag and clear coat away.

I'm going to clear coat too. I still see a few small areas where I cold sand more but for this piece it's OK. I'm just glad I screwed up the practice piece.
Dick, what do you use for clear coat? Auto clear coat or poly varnish. I've seen both used.

I have found that I get a much better finish when using thinner coats. I was fighting and fighting the exact same problem you described then went to thinner coats.

problem went away.

I use auto clear as my final coat. I have noticed that using a fish eye eliminator greately helps keep the final coat from having fish eyes too

I've been using the Duplicolor High Performance Wheel Coating Clear and it has held up very well so far.

Hi Gary,
Permagloss is a good clear coat and it's tough. Tom has posted a method on how to do it properly, basically turn the grip and apply with a foam brush in one go. You need to be sure the brush contains enough pg to do it in one pass. Not overly difficult.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

Roger is absolutely correct and we've stated it here many times - never use a solvent wipe as the last step in your surface prep.

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Gary,
I use both PermaGloss/Lumiseal and spray spar urethane. I use the spray on longer(9" or more) because I cannot seem to get enough on the foam brush to complete it in one pass.

Wash wipe dry !!
sand
Then clean off dust if you want I use a paper towel DAMP Not Wet Or Better Dry
Then make sure the surface is COMPLETELY dry hit it with a hare dryer
then coat

never a clean with a solvent as last step

Bill - willierods.com